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Yet another 10/22 project

4K views 43 replies 7 participants last post by  kansas45 
#1 ·
I saw this gun on another forum and decided I wanted to build one.



I won't be going the SBR route (unless of course they are removed from the NFA.. :D ).

The guy who built the one above used wood for the pistol grips and butt stock, I decided to use plastic for the pistol grips and aluminum for the butt stock


  • I'll adapt an AR or AK grip for the rear pistol grip
  • I'll install a picatinney rail and add a folding forward grip
  • I'll make the butt stock from aluminum tubing
  • I'll also make the butt pad from aluminum, but cover it with a flip flop for comfort
  • Free float the barrel and anchor the rear of the receiver using a bolt going through the stock and rear trigger pin hole.
  • Square off the stock and perhaps add some metal plates with bead rolls to the side of the stock to give it an "Uzi like" appearance?
 
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#2 ·
I picked up this used, 1995 vintage 10/22 for a reasonable price. The barrel has some light rust and the receiver has some chips in the paint.



I wont use a good stock, I'll pick from my collection of beaters



I already found a rear pistol grip, it is a universal style (to fit AR and AK rifles) and it didn't look like anything factory, which is what I wanted.



I'll use the Tapco anchor and bolt along with a sling plate to mount it to the 10/22 wood stock.



 
#3 ·
Front grip will be a folding style, mounted with a short length of picatinney rail





I found the aluminum tubing on ebay, a 24" piece was just over $5. It has a 1" OD with 1/16" wall. It is 6063 T5 aluminum, which should be more than strong enough. I'll find some aluminum in my scrap pile to make the butt plate out of




blog post link: http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2017/03/the-ruger-1022-ltr-project-part-1.html
 
#4 ·
This looks like a cool little build, any updates?
 
#5 ·
funny you should ask.....

While trying to find a way to attach the butt stock I came across this part in my parts bin, it is a Aero Precision barrel nut from our AR-10 Project. It was damaged and we had to replace it, but it will work perfect for this project





The inside diameter of the barrel nut is almost exactly 1" and the aluminum tube slid in with the right amount of resistance.

I can use the gas tube holes run screws through to the wood to anchor it and the 8 set screw holes should sufficiently hold the lightweight butt stock .


I purchased some 8-32 set screws to hold the barrel, as well as some 10-24 x 2.25" long screws and nutserts.





 
#7 ·
Here is the stock we plan on using, you can see it is a little beat up.




Using my Hoplophobe project stock as a guide, I measured 17" from the barrel band notch, marked a line and cut the butt stock off...the first cut is always the hardest





I also marked the stock for what I though was the most logical place for a forward grip and cut it.


 
#8 ·
I measured the stock and found it to be just shy of 2" wide (1.91"-1.94") and about 2" tall (from bottom of stock to the top of the back part of the receiver. As you can see it tapers pretty quickly at the grip, I will cut most of the remaining grip off and replace with new wood.



I cut the stock back a bit farther and also cut out some Pine trim boards that are 2.5" wide by 3/4" thick, I cut into 2 x 2.5" sections then glued to the stock. This will be the base for the barrel nut to (which is 1.8" across).




Then I roughed up the surfaces and glued them together

 
#9 · (Edited)
Now that we have the stock cut and the new wood glued on, time to start fitting the pieces.


I measured the distance from the trigger face to the rear of the grip on my 10/22 ATI stock, it is about 2 1/2"



I attached the grip anchor to the sling plate using JB Weld




Based on my measurements taken from my ATI stock, I marked the area I needed to inlet

 
#13 ·
Awesome!! I will make sure to check out your blog so you don't have to double post haha
 
#14 ·
Now we will focus on the construction of the butt stock and its attachment


Starting with the anchors for the butt stock, I clamped the barrel nut in place and drilled the first two holes



After countersinking the holes, I put some clay in the nutserts to protect the threads, filled the holes with 5 min ClearWeld epoxy and gently tapped the nutserts in place



After the first 2 anchor holes cured, I installed two of the bolts in the new anchors (for proper alignment) and drilled the last two holes.




Then repeated the process



While the epoxy was curing I shortened the bolts to the correct length



Once the epoxy cured I did a trial fit

 
#16 ·
After sanding and radiusing the edges, I glued a piece of flip flop to the plate



After it cured, I trued up the two using the 400 grit belt on the belt sander



Then I started figuring a way to connect the butt plate to the stock tube. I don't have access to a heliarc welder and didn't want to bother with trying to solder it, so I decided to use JB Weld. I stuffed some paper in the end of the tube to stop the JB Weld from running down inside.

Once I gooped it up good, I joined the two and pushed the paper down against butt plate, forcing the JB Weld against the butt plate.





I mixed up some more JB weld and forced it into a small syringe.

I then carefully spread it around the joint, cleaning up an mess with acetone and a cotton swab



 
#19 ·
I just posted part 3 to my blog (which is lagging behind the posts here)

http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2017/05/the-ruger-1022-ltr-project-part-3.html


here are some more updates

I need to shorten the barrel and recrown the muzzle. By law a rifle barrel must be 16" or longer (unless you file with the BATF and get a tax stamp for a Short Barrelled Rifle). The barrel on a standard 10/22 carbine is 18.5", so I will cut 2" off the end.



after cutting I checked the barrel length (with a cleaning rod in the bore) and we cam out just shy of 16.5"



Using my dove tail jig, I flied and sanded the end of the barrel so it was smooth and square




I then used my drill and a ball mill to chamfer the crown




I then removed the chatter marks with a brass stove bolt and some valve grinding compound



I stuffed a patch in the end of the bore to keep the valve grinding compound from getting inside.

 
#20 ·
I then cleaned the end with some 400 grit sand paper and my thumb....which now sports a blister...



I noticed that for some reason the barreled receiver fit very tight in this stock, I got out the lamp black and painted the bottom of the lug where the take down screw resides and checked to see if it was making contact. As I suspected it was not. When I pushed on the back of the receiver to get it all the way in, the front would lift up.



So I broke out the small files and sand paper, it now fits snugly, but easily and no more rocking back and forth.



Before going further we need to install a pillar for the factory take down screw and then figure out how to anchor the rear of the stock. I had a bunch of these flanged wahers in my parts bin, I used one on the target rifle project and it worked perfect, so I am using one here as well



I drilled a 23/64" hole down to the stock escutcheon and fitted the washer



I had to remove some material so it would touch the escutcheon while sitting flush and not raise the action in the stock

 
#21 ·
I covered the barre/receiver junction with tape and a liberal coating of car wax to prevent the JB weld from sticking to it



I mixed up the JB weld and put some under the washer and on top, when the barreled action is clamped it, the excess with squish out and the flanged washer and escutcheon will touch each other, preventing any movement.



The next day I pulled the the gun apart, there was a few small pieces of tape stuck to the JB weld, but otherwise everything is peachy. The fit is perfect, no rocking fore and aft and it feels rock solid.



I had planned on using the 10-24 x 2.25" long button head stainless screws to anchor the receiver.

The screws will go through the rear trigger pin hole which is 3/16".

3/16" is equal to .1875", a #10 cap screw is .190, slightly larger, which will fit, but will be tight.




So how do I drill the stock and get the holes lined up perfectly? I found a post on the Rimfire Central forum by Hipshot, he built a jig using a piece of angled aluminum and long 6-48 bolts, screwed into the scope rail holes.

I bought some #6-48 screws that are 1/2" long, which should be plenty long enough.

I couldn't find a piece of 90 degree angled aluminum, so I made one. The metal is from the same sheet I plan on using for the side panels.





I marked and drilled the top holes with a 9/64" drill bit, then drilled the side trigger pin holes with a 3/16" drill bit

A trial fit with the #10 cap screw



Then again with the trigger group installed. I drilled the front trigger holes as well, but I don't think I will be using them.


 
#24 ·
update time

I wanted to build a barrel shroud, I looked into buying one, but nothing really fit the size and look that I wanted, So I scrounged around the shop and this is what I found:


3/4" IPS PVC tubing, it fits over the barrel but isn't so big as to be obtrusive.



I want to bring it right up to the edge of the receiver, but the old school scope rail hangs over the edge.


Luckily I had a newer production one that is flush with the receiver.



I cut the tube to length and notched it for the barrel tennon







I still need to remove material from the stock so the barrel will be in the center of the tube

 
#25 ·
sanding the barrel channel with 60 grit paper wrapped around a small portion of the 3/4" tubing



I am planning on using these 10-24 bolts and T nuts (on the left)



While modifying them to fit in the round tube, I screwed up the threaded part....and like a dummy I had only purchased two of them, so I ordered some more



While I wait for the T nuts to show up, I went on with the building of the building of the shroud. I had these two shrouds that were made for the 10/22 as examples, I think I like the larger holes better.


Before marking the holes I found the center line and trimmed the tube to length



I just happen to have the right drill bit that matched the holes in the store bought shroud.


 
#26 ·
I then marked and drilled the side holes, in the center of the gap between the top and bottom holes.



I was not at all happy with the holes, some are oblong, some are not straight, but before starting over I figured I would paint it first. black textured paint has a way of hiding flaws




...and I was right, with the black textured paint on the shroud, you have to look hard to find the boo boos
Back to the T-nuts, I got another set (I bought 8 of them this time....). I flattened out the lock tabs and curved the flange to match the round shroud.



I then epoxied them in place



I then ran into a snag, the T-nits were hitting the barrel and causing misalignment, this won't work, I'll have to find another way, maybe attach them to the outside of the shroud?



After some debate back and forth, I decided to build another shroud, perhaps correct some of the mistakes I made on the first one.



I then modified another pair of T-Nuts



I had to route out a recess for the T-Nuts to sit, so they didn't cause misalignment with the barrel/shroud



After taping up the barrel channel, adding clay to the T-Nut threads and screwed in the picatinney rail bolts, I mixed up some 5-minute epoxy and clamped everything together. We want the T-Nuts to be glued to the shroud in perfect alignment with the holes for the picatinney rail screws



We have success!






While the paint was drying on the shroud I shortened the bolts

After a couple of coats of paint it is ready for prime time

 
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