Wolf Gold?

Discussion in 'Ammunition & Reloading' started by Artie1957, Jun 18, 2016.

  1. Artie1957

    Artie1957 Member

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    I am new to the AR world, I just bought my first one in 5.56. Does anyone use this ammunition? I can get it for around .32 cents a bullet.
    Pros? Cons?
    I read somewhere that the bullets are bi-metal and can be bad for your barrel.

    Is there a better deal out there for 223/5.56 ammo?
    Any help would be appreciated.
     
  2. FrontierTCB

    FrontierTCB Active Member

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    Wolf Gold or PMC bronze is probably the cheapest most reliable you can get before you downgrade to steel cased, which is a different can of worms for another day.

    WG and PMC shoot fine for range duty.

    Do yourself a favor and checkout Freedom Munitions. I prefer them to either of the others and they are same price range if not cheaper.

    Whatever you decide to do just get after it. I have a feeling in one week factory ammo will be harder to find and much higher. This is moving fast.

    Edit: For instance Wed. evening I was going to grab one last case of Wolf Gold from SGammo for $279.00 for 1,000 rds. Power went out during storm and I didn't order.
    Next day (Thur) it was sold out. Yesterday ( Fri) it was back @ $309.99. Not outrageous but a decent jump in 48hrs. Ordered my last case from Freedom. I have enough to last me a long time. I won't order anymore unless it is some smokin deal or something.


    Sent from a phone I can use to do my taxes, but can't make a damn call.
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2016

  3. SSGN_Doc

    SSGN_Doc Well-Known Member

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    Not all Wolf ammo is the same. Wolf is just an importer. The last Wolf Gold I bought was made by Prvi Partisan and used reloabable brass cases and copper jacketed bullets.

    Wolf has different lines of ammo and each is made by different manufacturers.
     
  4. noylj

    noylj Member

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    If you didn't learn when Clinton was elected, you should have learned when Obama was elected. Otherwise, wait a few weeks and see where you are...

    Personal opinion only: I've seen folks pay $1500 for an AR-type rifle and only shoot the cheapest steel-cased ammo they could find and complain they aren't getting sub-MOA groups.
    Of course, I handload for everything, except for my AK-clone.
     
  5. Artie1957

    Artie1957 Member

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    Learn what?
     
  6. SSGN_Doc

    SSGN_Doc Well-Known Member

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    Huh? Wolf Gold is BRASS cased with COPPER jacket. See my previous post. Wolf is not a manufacturer. They just import ammo. Some comes from former Soviet countries, some comes from Serbia, some from Italy, some from Germany etc.
     
  7. primer1

    primer1 Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Knowing you were possibly in diapers during Klinton's reign, I'll help by saying....stock up now!
     
  8. Artie1957

    Artie1957 Member

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    I was in diapers when Dwight D. Eisenhower was president and what makes you think I'm not stocked up?
     
  9. primer1

    primer1 Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Sorry, I thought you were much younger.
     
  10. Artie1957

    Artie1957 Member

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    I'll take that as a compliment then!
     
  11. bbertram

    bbertram New Member

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    I'm a Truman baby and I'm stocked up , too ! :)
     
  12. locutus

    locutus Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Don't let any of the fearmongers try you tell you that bimetal bullets or steel cases will harm your weapon. They won't.

    The American manufacturer Hornady makes premium, match ammo with steel cases.

    In WW2, American army ammo plants made hundreds of millions of steel cased rounds to issue to troops on the battlefield.
     
  13. SSGN_Doc

    SSGN_Doc Well-Known Member

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    We do need to be careful to separate out the difference between steel cased ammo and steel jacketed or bimetal jacketed ammo.

    There is a ton of confusion about "steel" in ammo and what wear will be noticed.

    Steel case = a steel shell, casing, hull, or whatever you want to call that portion of the cartridge that houses the primer and powder charge and has the bullet seated in it. The areas people freak out about with steel cases are extractor wear from having steel rub up on the extractor. They aslo will report stuck cases due to "lacquer" or "polymer" case coatings melting and sticking to chamber walls. Ive tried putting a lighter under shells to see if /I could get the coatings to melt and run off. it has to get really freakin' hot. the most likely source of chamber sticking issues is from carbon build up due to increased blow by of gases or softer primer sealant that gets blown around in the action and has a low melting point.

    Steel or Bi-metal jacketed bullet = the projectile. Many manufacturers try to keep cost down by minimizing the amount of copper in the jackets of the projectiles. Mild steel is cheaper and very thin coatings are often applied. I've seen an article and if I get asked to do it I will try to search it out. It was done by a electron microscope operator, and he said that the copper coatings are often only a few microns thick and the steel on fired projectiles is usually in contact with the rifling of the barrel. Lucky Gunner Ammo has an article on the web where they tested several barrels with steel/ bimetal jacketed bullets and compared them against copper jacketed bullets. They did see accelerated rifling and throat wear with some decline in accuracy at 10k-20k fewer rounds that with copper jacketed ammo use exclusively. But all barrels were north of 10K rounds before appreciable accuracy loss was a problem.

    Then there are that many variable of different manufacturers and importers and then combinations of components.

    ASI had said earlier, you can't just say "Wolf" sucks. Wolf imports ammo made by Tula, Ulyanovsk, Prvi Partisan, Dyanamit Nobel (actually some pretty high end match quality .22 LR ammo when you can find it), and others as they find availability.

    then you go and throw Hornady in the mix and they use steel cased ammo with their own powder charge at higher QC standards and their own match grade COPPER not bimetal jacketed bullet, and we really aren't talking about the same ammo.

    So, do some research if you buy foreign ammo, try to understand the terminology and how it applies to each component. understand that there may be some additional wear. figure out if the savings in ammo is worth the cost of a replacement part and do what you want.

    I figure a few hundred rounds is probably not going to amount to much additional wear if a round count is going to get to 20K or more. The ammo saving is probably pretty significant at those counts though.

    (This isn't directed at you locutus, but I took you reply as a que to try to deconflict some of the info that often gets confused out there.)