Okay... If you have a 94, and are trying to shoot past 100 with it for deer or whatever, I have a few things I have learned the hard way. I am not talking about iron sights, and very few people scope the 94 because of the hassle it takes to do it. But I like the challenge of the old gun while others are knocking them down with 700's and such. My guns are both side mounted with simple Nikon stuff. Mainly for my eyes as I am 49 and I just can't see both end of the iron sights AND the dang target at my age. I have 20-5 vision long range, but the iron sights are a no go for me anymore. The other benefit of a scope here in South GA is the fact that I rarely have the time to morning hunt, but I can't wait to knock off work and sit in a stand when the season is in. Most of the time, by Georgia rules, we can shoot 30 minutes past the legal sunset, but I cant see crap most days 10 minutes after sunset. My point is, by getting a side mount scope, I gather a little more light, and I can actually see stuff EVEN PAST legal shooting time. I'm not saying I shoot it past legal, but it puts my poor gun and me back into the game... Enough on that. The problems and fixes all happened with side mount scopes model 94's, though the scope or mount has NOTHING to do with what I am talking about. The scopes are sound, the mounts are sounder... Number one...trigger pull. I have heard people call it the lawyer trigger and so on, but the fact is, the 94 has a nasty trigger pull. It's sloppy and unpredictable, and what makes it worse, it's that every pull feels different all the time...after you pulled so hard that your shot was off...lol. Okay. You can seriously improve this trigger pull on that gun with some sandpaper and a little bit of "do it yourself" ability. It's fun too. I got my pull from a random 9-7 lbs to a pretty predictable 5 in less than 2 hours. Look up on the internet the various YouTube videos and such concerning the trigger mechanism on the 94. You will find that there are several diagrams and different assemblies out there...mostly based on the year of manufacture, and a few folks actually tell you how to tune it up. I got all excited, so I pulled my trigger assembly apart, and it was, well...not in ANY of the diagrams. I have a 1972 model, just so yall know. Well, either way, if you are mechanical at all, then you will see where the rubber (or friction) hits the road on these mechanisms. Just go slow. Sand a little, put it back together, and test it. Do it again and again until you like the pull. I had shot deer with this gun and sighted it in each year, but was never better than a 3.75 inch grouping on a rest at 100 yds. After this, I was easily at 2 inches. Now...my gun may have had a really hard pull, but if you are fighting that battle BEFORE you actually fire, its a big relief to have the gun fire when you "think the word FIRE", instead of fighting with it after the thought. Second problem: After a few years of shooting, I learned that by properly bracing my gun in my deer stand (I made mine out of wood, so I can brace it against a 2x4), I was able to hold a long range target much steadier than just resting it. I was actually locking the forestock against the wood and putting pressure on it. Well, it worked great for 1 year, but the second year, I kept missing shots. I went back to the bench, and my range is at 136 yds, and I was dead on...easy 2 inch groupings...but on a REST. Back to the deer stand and can't hit crap. Well, I did hit one buck at 180, but the bullet went through his front and back legs on opposite sides. (He ran 100 yards with 2 legs, and yes we found him and we processed him that night.) The point being...my shot was 2 feet low at that range. Either way...back to the bench rest. Yep, DEAD on at 136. Hornady FTX 165, everything is perfect. (yes, I know how to compensate for distance using my Nikon...lol.) Come to find out, even a 94 has binding parts on the barrel. Look it up. VERY FEW folks have info on this on the net that I found. (Mainly because everyone see's it as a 100 yard iron sight gun...) But, float the fore stock first. It takes time, but when it's humid (south GA here, it certainly can be) it can put forces on your barrel. next, get some sand paper and make sure the tube bracket that hold the end of the magazine to the barrel is not tight...you should be able to wiggle the tube easily and have some play in there. Same goes with the stock...it should not be "fixed" to anything...but loose and slightly floppy. Long story, but the end result is simple. The barrel is easily influenced by forces you may apply to the magazine tube or the stock...so just loosen the binds and friction between those parts and the barrel. Most deer I shoot these days with that gun are at 175-200. They all fall down if I did it right. There's nothing like seeing the flash, hearing the bang, and then actually hearing the "Thwmp" as the bullet hits the deer...It's a special treat for us "slow heavy bullet" shooters. Another note...If you are hunting with a scoped 30-30, the Hornady FTX is about 13 inches higher at 300 yds than a your normal ammo...150/170...it dont matter. The round does not drop as fast because of less drag. I have mine sighted for 150, and so between 100-200, I really do not do anything but put the cross hairs on them. After 200, you better start doing some math fast because again, it's just a 94, and she is falling fast. Thanks for your time and I hope this helps someone not learn it the hard way. Wade The mounts are: Quickset on the Nikon 3x9x40mm Scope. Williams on the Nikon 2x7x32 mm Scope. The third gun is a model 94 saddle ring 25-35 that was my great grandfathers made in 1920 or something. They bought it to shoot fish off of a 15 foot high dock...imagine that.