Winchester Model 60A - a restoration thread

Discussion in '.22 Rifle/Rimfire Discussion' started by LongBaller71, Oct 19, 2012.

  1. LongBaller71

    LongBaller71 New Member

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    A good friend from church was asking me about a little rifle he had recently been given in a donated estate. He knew three things about it: it was pretty old, it was extremely dirty, and it was a Winchester 22. When he asked if I wanted it cheap I of course said I'd be right over.

    Here's what I found:

    This is an early Model 60A 22 short, long, or long rifle with a 23" barrel. The 60A was available in a Sporter or Target version. It appears Winchester made this model from about 1932 to 1939 and sold about 165,000 of them. This 23" barrel version was only made in 1932-1933. After 1933, all 60A's were made with a 27" barrel.

    This rifle is in fairly good shape considering it had sat untouched for probably the last 30+ years in a basement closet. Other than wiping it down some and soaking the crap out of it in gun oil, this is how it sat. There is surface rust on the trigger guard and bits of the barrel, but looks as if pitting is at a minimum. Everything seems to be there, all original, and functional to a point. I'll need to make sure the trigger group is really set up right. The pull has to be less than 2lbs as it sits. Too light!

    I'll be cleaning the snot out of the barrel, bolt, etc. I'll take it all down to bare metal before refinishing. Still haven't decided whether I'll re-blue or duracoat it. The stock is in decent shape and should refinish nicely.

    Here's some before pics to get us started:
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  2. hiwall

    hiwall Well-Known Member

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    They are a nice little well made 22's. Good find!
     

  3. Gh0zt36

    Gh0zt36 Active Member

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    Excellent. Make sure you take pics as you go . I love watching the different stages when restoring old firearms. And if ya want my vote? I'd re blue it to its former glory. Good luck!
     
  4. clr8ter

    clr8ter New Member

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    Yeah, re blue, paint wouldn't look right.
     
  5. LongBaller71

    LongBaller71 New Member

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    Spent a little time on it after the kids went to bed last night. Removed what old bluing was left and cleaned off all the rust from the barrel and bolt assy. There's quite a bit more pitting on the outside of the barrel than I originally saw. It's not horrible by any means, but its there. I think most of it is going to be covered by the stock. Bluing might be ok. I'll post some pics when I get back from the soccer tourney today.

    I don't know if I have the skill or equipment needed to do a real blue job on my own. Sending it out for a pro bluing would just be cost prohibitive for this old thing. I've seen anywhere from $100-175 just for the barrel. I can use formula 44 or other cold bluing, but I'm just not thinking that would turn out too hot. I've never used it on a project like this, so input would be appreciated if others have done it! The option of using a duracoat finish gives me much better control over the resulting color and finish type.
     
  6. HOSSFLY

    HOSSFLY New Member

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    Dave, i've cold blued everything from small parts to complete double barrelled shotguns--Secret is patience --It sure won't look close to gud the first few times-Just keep adding coats to each part & don't shortcut or skip steps- After mabe 8-10 times on larger parts it'll start looking pretty gud :) Get a bag of 0000 steelwool & use it- Its one of those projects you have to really enjoy doing ;)
     
  7. LongBaller71

    LongBaller71 New Member

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    Hoss,

    What product have you had the most success with? I'm looking at using either 44 or Blue Wonder. I'm sure torch heating would make either one work better and faster? Guess I can try it and see how well it works.
     
  8. hiwall

    hiwall Well-Known Member

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    The 44-40 blue is quite popular. I often use one of Brownell's (either Oxpho blue or DICROPAN T-4).
     
  9. LongBaller71

    LongBaller71 New Member

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    A few updates from today.

    Stock almost completely sanded. Walnut underneath is gonna look good I think. image-3274304947.jpg

    Bolt completely stripped and partially polished up. Cleaned up really nice considering its prior state. image-37436434.jpg

    Trigger guard was rusted worse than anything else. Took a ton of wd40 and elbow grease just to get it off the stock. It's getting closer to being ready. image-3066907714.jpg

    Barrel is stripped and polished twice. Closer as well, but still needs a bit more. image-257134714.jpg

    I can get 44-40 here local. Guess I may try it first. Still think this would be cool with a semi-gloss duracoat if the bluing doesn't work out.

    Anyway, more to come tmrw. Thx for the advice so far!
     
  10. LongBaller71

    LongBaller71 New Member

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    First coats of oil/dye mixture this am.
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  11. HOSSFLY

    HOSSFLY New Member

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  12. Blueguns

    Blueguns New Member

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    Stock look great, I can't wait to see the rest of the gun!
     
  13. LongBaller71

    LongBaller71 New Member

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    Thanks guys. I'll sand the stock again with 800, then coat again with two different oils before putting on a clear coat. Won't ever be perfect again, but will be a whole world apart from where we found it.

    I'll look that stuff up, Hoss. Do you heat any before you start layering your blue?
     
  14. HOSSFLY

    HOSSFLY New Member

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    No, I've tryed it but didn't see a difference.
     
  15. gunsmoke11

    gunsmoke11 New Member

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    Rub the bluing very rapidly using a paper towel. For some reason the friction causes it to heat up and some kind of chemical reaction helps the finish to become more durible. I can't explain it, but it was told to me many years ago by my uncle and it's always worked. When not done the bluing seemed to wear off a lot faster. Using oooo steel wool finishes it off nicely without removing any of the blue and seems to even out the finish with a nice sheen.
     
  16. HOSSFLY

    HOSSFLY New Member

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    Well, each to his own I guess----the blue has to soak in for at least a minute- rubbing with a ruff towell won't allow that- try a cotton ball.
     
  17. gunsmoke11

    gunsmoke11 New Member

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    I didn't mean to rub it with paper towel while wet. Do it when dry and of course some residue will come off on the towel, but you can repeat this several times till you're satisfied with the way it looks. Cotton balls are fine to apply the blue, but does nothing else. I'll say again that there's something about those paper towels that makes the cold bluing hold up more permanent. The oooo steel wool finishes it off nicely without removing any of the finish. Museums use oooo to remove rust from weapons, cause it doesn't effect the original finish.

    Seven, or eight years ago my friend asked me to re-blue his Jap type 26 revolver that he had just bought, which had been in a fire and the finish was destroyed by the heat, but lucky for him the grips were fine. It came out great and still looks great to this day. People who see it can't tell it was ever touched. If I get a chance I'll get a hold of him and take a photo of it and post it.

    Isn't it worth giving this method a try rather than just disregarding it? It costs nothing except a couple of minutes of your time.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2012
  18. LongBaller71

    LongBaller71 New Member

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    Decided to go with the Formula 44/40 bluing, since it was local. Picked up a small bottle this am after I dropped the kids a school.

    The barrel was stripped then buffed down to bare metal. I then soaked it a few times in brake cleaner to get the remaining oils off.

    I pre-heated my oven to 170* for about 20 mins. I placed the barrel in the oven for about 5-6 mins to get it up to 95-100* to optimize the bluing adhesion. I wiped on very liberal coats with a clean old cotton sock. Once the entire barrel was wiped thoroughly, I wiped it back down with a dry clean cotton rag to remove any excess solution. Followed that with using 0000 steel wool to rub down every inch of the blued surface.

    I repeated that process three times to get to the color I have now. Then I repeated the same for the trigger guard and the bolt button pull and stock barrel retention screw.

    Put it back together and here's how she looks. Not to bad considering how rough it was. Could probably use 2-3 more coats of blue to be the best it's gonna get. Probably do that after I take it out to test fire it Friday.

    Lmk what ya think.

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    Last edited: Oct 22, 2012
  19. mrt8110

    mrt8110 New Member

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    60a

    Impressive...!:) Cliff
     
  20. LongBaller71

    LongBaller71 New Member

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    Thanks, Cliff!