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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have never been able to hit the broadside of a barn with my Kel Tec P-11. I have had it for years and always considered it to be a belly buster, nothing more. I put a white trigger stop on it and gave it a short try out.

The first six shots were like normal, all over the place. Once I got the hang of using the trigger stop I put the last four shots in the same hole. I am going to give it a few days of dry firing before I waste any more ammo. I am sure a little luck was involved with putting four shots in the same hole but I am certain the P-11 has become a 15 yard shooter.

I made the trigger stop out of a rubber tab you put on the bottom of a table leg. It will be more durable than a pencil eraser. I simply drove a 380 brass through the plastic to get it the size I wanted. The I used a triangle shape file to fit the plastic to the gun. I attached the trigger stop to the gun with super glue.
 

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Any pics? I have trouble imagining things since the '60's.
 

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I don't get it. Looks like you stuck a shotgun shell in front of the trigger. Do you sick your finger in the shel and use it while shooting? What's the purpose and how does it work? How does it stay? Do you carry it that way?

Edit... I see, never heard of these things before, then I noticed the little bump behind the trigger on the frame. So it prevents over-travel then? Good idea.
 

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I'm sorry, I don't understand. Hasn’t the bullet already left the barrel by the time your finger is past the break and is proceeding to press the trigger further toward the rear after the round is fired?
 

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I'm sorry, I don't understand. Hasn’t the bullet already left the barrel by the time your finger is past the break and is proceeding to press the trigger further toward the rear after the round is fired?
You may be surprised how much of a difference this kinda thing can make. I'll tell you my experience with trigger pull follow through:

Shooting with the M16 at Parris island in 2002, I started off pulling the trigger until the shot breaks during my "natural respiratory pause" then immediately letting go. A Drill Instructor smacked me on the side of the head several times while simultaneously screaming "FOLLOW THROUGH". I began squeezing until the shot breaks during a "natural respiratory pause", and then holding it until I began the next breath. I IMMEDIATELY cut my groups by over half.

There are several things that can be done after the bullet leaves the barrel that will unbelievably affect accuracy. These are things that generally affect shooting form, and not so much the actual trajectory of the bullet.

Lifting your head immediately after the shot breaks to try and see where you hit is one too. Once I broke that habit, I went from sharpshooter score to expert score.
 

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You may be surprised how much of a difference this kinda thing can make. . . .etc.
Yeah, sure . . on a rifle, but even on a pistol that just has a few inches barrel?
 

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Yeah, sure . . on a rifle, but even on a pistol that just has a few inches barrel?
Even more so. The rifle is normally held by three points (shoulder, right hand, left hand). The handgun by two points.

Try to set the stool up on two legs.
 

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Yeah, sure . . on a rifle, but even on a pistol that just has a few inches barrel?
YES! YES! YES! Even then, with a shorter barrel, these things than can affect form, will affect handgun accuracy just as much, IF NOT MORE, than a rifle. Handguns are normally inherently more challenging to shoot accurately, because of the shorter sight radius, and fewer/smaller points of contacts with the firearm (shoulder stock, fore end vs a single grip to hold onto).

Usually, inaccurate shooting is more pronounced with a handgun.

Again, I'll relate my own experiences. I'm pretty new to the 1911 platform, having bought my first and only on Valentines day last year.
I started out with the arched main spring housing, and with a grip that consisted of wrapping my hand around the grip, like I was trying to strangle it.

Now, I hold it by putting the Web between my forefinger and thumb high and centered under the hammer, and wrap my fingers forward from that point. Accuracy improved.

I changed to flat MSH to help facilitate that grip, and accuracy improved more.

The problem was, the gun was torqueing and twisting as the round fired. The bulk of the effect was happening after the bullet left the barrel, but it was enough of a problem that it was affecting my accuracy in a huge way. By changing my grip, and a part to help me along, I pretty much eliminated this problem. Again, it was an issue that affected my overall shooting form, and really had nothing to do with the accuracy of the gun itself.
 

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vincine You can try it if you have a firearm that has over travel and if you see it does or does not work for you then take it off or leave it on. Then you can siffer through the engineering.

You will find many accurate firearms control over travel rifles and handgun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The stop makes the kel tec shoot like it has a staged trigger. You just squeeze until you feel the trigger touching the stop. Then you get a good aim and squeeze. The trigger barely moves before the gun goes off. It is impossible for me to hold the gun steady with a mile long trigger travel. I can shoot the kel tec very well with the stop.
 

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The stop makes the kel tec shoot like it has a staged trigger. You just squeeze until you feel the trigger touching the stop. Then you get a good aim and squeeze. The trigger barely moves before the gun goes off. It is impossible for me to hold the gun steady with a mile long trigger travel. I can shoot the kel tec very well with the stop.
I'd be interested in shooting something like this. My largest pet peeve with DAO/Striker fire DA guns is the extreme amount of trigger distance. If this solved that at all it would greatly open up my options for backup carry pieces.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I'd be interested in shooting something like this. My largest pet peeve with DAO/Striker fire DA guns is the extreme amount of trigger distance. If this solved that at all it would greatly open up my options for backup carry pieces.
I used a pencil eraser for a template. I dry fired the gun with a pencil eraser until I achieved the desired effect. Then I carried the pencil eraser until I spotted something I could work with. The original White trigger stop is made from a pencil eraser. The pencil eraser is so soft I don't see how it would last more than a couple hundred rounds. I felt better with the chair leg pad. They last for years under much more extreme conditions. The drawback to the harder material is your work has to be more accurate. Once the stop is glued on the gun it is difficult to file/sand without damaging the gun. I put several layers of masking tape on contact areas to protect the gun while I was filing the stop.
 
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