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Discussion in 'General Handgun Discussion' started by windjammer69, Aug 1, 2019.
What part of the baby do they get the oil from anyways?
Mostly Rem-oil, but lately with in the last year, Prolix,,,,,its pretty good stuff. Have NO problems using it on the (plastic) trigger group on a Marlin Camp 9
The latest Brownells catalog has an immense number of pages directly related to gun cleaning and maintenance products. It's mind boggling that there are that many sooper-dooper cleaners and lubricants that are the "best in the world".
I used to try just about every new & improved CLP that came down the pike, until I met EEZOX.
I was approached by a father whose son was in the "sand-boxes" serving our country to see if I could get a case of EEZOX sent to his son. His claim was that they needed to pull the doors off of Humvee's, regularly to remove the fine sand dust that got into the hinges. After they treated those hinges with EEZOX, maintenance to remove sand dust didn't need to be done for several months. I ordered a case and shipped it to his son, and thanked him for his service.
I treat all .22 rimfire bores with EEZOX and have found that crapola that normally collected in those bores was now held off for a longer period of time. Synthetic EEZOX also passed the "salt-spray" tests for rust preventatives with flying colors. It's the only stuff I now use these days.
I use One Shot CLP (liquid), Breakfree CLP (spray), and sometimes 3 in 1 oil. I use Pennzoil red wheel bearing grease on slide rails
Yes sir, I also like the EEZOX product. Only reason I don't use it much anymore, is it is hard to fine where I live. I try to buy locally the cleaning supplies not so much on line.
I use G96 for cleaning and lube. It’s been fantastic and smells great.
Thanks for the heads up, I'm gonna order some off Amazon
I'd recommend that you get the small oiler bottle and then the 4 oz. tilt spout version. That way you can refill the small bottle with the tilt spout can, and the oiler bottle will allow you to poke the EEZOX into tight areas.
The spray cans just waste too much of a good thing.
I use Ed’s Red for cleaning, which leaves a thin film of oil, and Mobil 1, 5-20w for higher wear areas.
We use Mobil 1 in the **NEW** Jeep Grand Cherokee. For all the firearms we relish, not any oil as that's a crud magnet, but instead we use solvents that have been formulated for firearms. Been working for 45+ years so far.
I keep forgetting to put a little bottle of oil in the pelican case that holds my two 1100 trap guns. I've been going into my trucks toolbox and getting a little bit of gear oil to lube them up. Its been working fine. I used to have a rag in my trucks door that I used to clean the dipstick. That thing wiped down a lot of guns.
I run Mobil 1 in my jeep wrangler. I drain the container pretty well but you can get enough leftovers out of about three oil changes to last a long time and I consider it to be free gun oil and the best there is.
Wilson Combat Ultima-Lube II.
I am trying to get my own lube formula perfected, liberal tears and bacon grease. But the liberal tears have a high salt content, so it is a work in progress.
That just might work! If you would care to add some wild hog fat to the mix, contact TX Hillbilly. He's got wild hogs stacked like cord-wood and just might provide some grease from those critters.
Gun lube is really no big deal. A car engine runs thousands of RPMs for hours, so maybe the minor differences in oil chemistry make a difference. On a civilian firearm anything slick and hydrophobic will work. Not if you listen to the manufacturers and their sponsored gun writers! But how many people believe in a single best brand of gasoline?
Besides... a 2 oz oil can will last so long, it's boring. Like buying guns, you want something new now and then.
I used to try every new, fandangled oil & lubricant elixir that appeared in each years version of the Brownells catalog. It got to be ridiculous, as each product was guaranteed to be the best thing that came along since the slot in the front of men's underwear.
For years I was a huge fan of Break-Free CLP, as a cleaner, lubricant and protectant. These days, I only have two variations on both of my benches, EEZOX, which is also a CLP, but synthetic, and then Kroil, used as a rust softener and small screw loosener-upper.
The aspect I like about EEZOX, involves my use of it in .22 rimfire caliber rifles, especially to condition the bores. .22 rimfire being quite dirty ammunition, doesn't adhere to rimfire bores when I coat them with EEZOX, as it does without, so I like that. Wiping down blued surfaces with EEZOX keeps surface rust at bay, and I like that part also. Used judiciously, a 4 oz. can of EEZOX last quite a while.
Kroil is touted to be able to creep into gaps 2-millionths of an inch. I have no way of testing, or challenging that edict, so I'll roll with it.
My shelf's stocked with all the latest & greatest. When it's all said & done, I go back to RemOil.
As was stated there are a lot of excellent lubricants out there including some of these.
Breakfree - Slip 2000 -
1 Qt. 5 W 50 MOBILE #1 SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL
½ Qt. MOBILE #1 SYNTHETIC TRANSMISSION FLUID
Mix the following formula together in a small two cycle gas can from Wal-Mart for example.
Then go over to the ladies hair supplies section of the store and pick up some small pump spray bottles like the ones that have the clear cap that covers the pump head.
These make excellent small lubrication dispensers. For spraying lube on the weapon itself or on a patch.
We have used this formula at our State LE Academy’s Carbine Instructor Certification School for over ten years. It makes a fantastic semi and auto weapon lubricant and will not bake off easily.
I subzero weather go to 5 W 30 + Trans Fluid same ratio.
Breakfree CLP for most things other than AR BCGs, I grease them. Also Dan Wesson specifies FP-10 so thats what I use on them.