troy or rra

Discussion in 'AR-15 Discussion' started by JonM, Nov 21, 2011.

  1. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    After playing around with my sw mp15-22 and the strikfire dot sight i realized that a similar setup would totally solve my 458 socom optic problem. With a set of magpul mbus sights the strikefire and a magnifier i could have a 5x dot optic for hunting or a 3x without the doubler. It would solve my issue of being unsure if my sight was zeroed as i could just flip the mbus up to confirm zero.

    Now my question... i like the look of the rra operator ffloat hanguard the other option is a troy rail weight isnt a real factor. I have no doubt the troy rail mounts solid but i want the rra one. Anyone know how the rra rail locks in so it doesnt move??

    I just need enough rail space for a magnifier the mbus and the strikefire. My upper is a midlength and has a generic aluminum ff tube
     
  2. Dillinger

    Dillinger New Member

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    I believe the back end of the free float tube on that model has a dual threaded backpiece that replaces your stock "D" ring. You thread the back piece onto the upper receiver, tighten, then thread the handguard onto it and tighten.

    I have yet to install one of these, but have installed others and they are pretty much all the same.

    Post up some photos when you are finished. :D

    JD
     

  3. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    i will :)

    that sounds a little wierd. how solid is that method?? ever see one come undone?? i would think they would shoot loose
     
  4. Dillinger

    Dillinger New Member

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    Never once to be honest. Most manufacturers have min/max threading pounds per square inch to insure they stay put. You aren't putting it on 'hand tight'.

    But if it worries you I have a couple of thoughts:

    1) Loctite

    2) Drill and thread a small screw on the underside into the replacement nut, thread all the way in once installed and top it with either Loctite or clear nail polish.

    Viola' - No Problemo. :D
     
  5. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    okay.

    if anyone is going to have a problem with a product its me lol. you can sit me in a room with an anvil and a box of kleneex come back in a hour and the anvil will be split in half....

    my main concern was how well the rra half quad attached. i think ill order the rra
     
  6. Sniper03

    Sniper03 Supporting Member Supporter

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    JON,

    Dillinger is correct. the Free Float Quad Rail is actually 3 piece. The actual large Barrel nut similar to a Yankee Hill barrel nut that takes the place of the regular standard Barrel Nut, Delta Ring, Weld Spring and Snap Ring. It is very sturdy and has an excessive amount of fine threads on it that the Free Float Operator Quad Rail threads on and very sturdy in supporting the free float quad tube. Between the Receiver and the rear of the physical Free Float Quad Rail there is separate Lock Ring that also is threaded on the Barrel Nut at the rear, that secures the Free Float Quad on the Barrel Nut. Also normally thread locker is used when installing them as the lock ring is tightened against the rear of the Quad Rail with a spanner wrench. I have never experienced any of them coming loose once tightened well. It is my opinion that it is a must to use thread locker! (BLUE!) If you look close at the RRA Website and the Operator Rifle you can see the notches on the Lock Ring. The Picatinny portion of the Free Float Operator Rail must be level with the flat top on the receiver when locked into position. There is also a tool you can buy to do this eliminating the use of a bubble level if you plan on doing several installations?

    03
     
  7. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    thanks bubble level will work fine i dont plan on doing a lot of these types of installs. if i need to remove it for barrel cleaning i can just redo the leveling.

    that pretty much answers my concerns between the two of ya.
     
  8. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    ordered the rra advanced Half Quad with Full Length Top Rail, Mid-Length.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Dillinger

    Dillinger New Member

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    Ooooohhhhh! That looks cool!

    Looking forward to how you like it!

    JD
     
  10. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    thats why i was asking about how they are mounted heh. same price as the troy stuff but better looking.

    i figure even if i blow up the vortex strikefire on the socom they will send me a new one :) ive read about peeps torturing the hell out of em so i figure it will do fine. the damn thing has destroyed everything else ive put on it.
     
  11. Sniper03

    Sniper03 Supporting Member Supporter

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    Jon

    Shouldn't have to take it off to clean since the front end is open and that will give you adequate access to clean. If nothing else you can spray break and parts cleaner back in there and then use Hoppes or other solvent on a rod with a large patch. Then use something like G-96 to spray in an re-lube everything. That is how I clean my units with the free float quad rails.

    03
     
  12. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    im new to the free float thing. ive had sudden storms dump on me out hunting and i like to be able to get to the barrel easy to prevent rust. maybe im a little paranoid
     
  13. Quentin

    Quentin New Member

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    That's a good point, Jon. I like being able to remove handguards quickly to get to the barrel. But I know these things get abused more than I'll ever do and keep on going...
     
  14. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    Yeah. Thats the main reason i sold my ruger sr556. You cannot get to the barrel easy at all. The rail was double roll pinned in so if it got wet all you could do was shootit with some cleaner and hope rust didnt set in.

    If my socom gets drenched its a little harder than standard clamshell guards to get to the barrel but its doable.

    Last year i shot a nice doe with it and carrying it back blood ran down the outside of the barrel. I was able to clean it when i got back to my tools in wisconsin. With the ruger that wouldnt even have been an option. It would have eventually ruined the barrel.

    Anyway im just thinking ahead knowing how freeking accident prone i can be in regards to breaking things.
     
  15. TacticalPrecision

    TacticalPrecision New Member

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    They have an installation tool for railed forearm installs that isn't overly expensive and it'll assure you a proper install, because the biggest thing when installing these is a good true fit, if you don't want to buy the tool you can probably find a precision flat machine block somewhere to make sure it's on straight. thousandths of an inch at the rail is hard to notice with the naked eye too, so you'd want to make sure you got a feeler guage to check it under the block aswell. Otherwise you'll have a twisted view of the flip-ups and the back will be straight up, and the front will be out of alignment and off to one side or the other making sighting a tad more difficult and you wont be able to use windage and elevation adjustments on the backsight because it wont be flat adjustments it'll be diagnal.
     
  16. mjkeat

    mjkeat New Member

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    I like Troy rails because of their quality and simplicity. I am not a fan of their new rails w/ the built in front sight though.
     
  17. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    if i cant line it up ill look into getting a tool. but i figure just zeroing the dotscope then align the sights off the dot and confirm zero. long as its not terribly far off it wont matter much. the sights only need a 100 yard zero.