trouble with my rem 742 woodsmaster semiauto

Discussion in 'General Rifle Discussion' started by caspar39, Nov 7, 2011.

  1. caspar39

    caspar39 New Member

    Hey, I hope someone can help. I have a rem 742 30.06 woodsmaster ,have it for 25 yrs with no problem. This year for some reason when trying to site it in on about the sixth or seventh round the bullets (rem 180 gr psp ) start to fly. Thought it was scope changed it same problem. At shot 4,5,6 in ten ring 1 oclock inch high # 7 12 oclock 4in high #8 6 in high 11 oclock. Have same trouble on 3 different occasions I let barrell cool bullet comes down but at 9 oclock 1 in out next high again. I have gun

    in lead sled so its not me In 25 years gun always shot 3 in group on sight in. It is a hunting rifle so except for this year I dont put many rounds thru it . Any help would be appreciated . deer season in 2 weeks .
  2. willfully armed

    willfully armed New Member

    Sounds like a fouled barrel combined with it "walking" from being hot.

    If you're putting all those rounds into one target, you're doing it wrong.

    You should have three separate targets set side by side. So you have targets 1,2, and 3 .

    From left to right(or right to left.....personal preference) one shot into each target. This gives you point of impact on cold, warm, and hot bore
    Let the barrel cool to ambient temperature, then put one more round in each target, in the same order.

    You obviously want at least three round groups.

    Adjusting the scope ONLY to target 1, the cold bore target. Targets 2 and 3, will let you know how follow up shots will deviate from cold bore.

    This is the MOST accurate way to "sight in" a scoped rifle.
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2011

  3. c3shooter

    c3shooter Administrator Staff Member

    Agree with fouled barrel. Wet the bore with Hoppes or solvent of your choice, let set for 5 minutes, brush, patch, repeat if needed. Also check crown of muzzle to be sure there is not a ding that developed there.
  4. Muliemaster

    Muliemaster New Member

    Try the sweets 7.62 copper solvent good stuff brush lightly between patches see how that works
  5. jaxonj

    jaxonj New Member

    I bought a used 742 this year and it wouldn't shoot until I loosened the forearm bolt about 3 full turns. I don't shoot more than two shots at a time but after I loosened the bolt I have been able to shot two shots at 2 3/4 at 150 yds, both were about 1 1/2 from dead center...I also dremeled the forearm so nothing comes close to the barrel and put some foam under the gas port block to push the forearm away from the barrel...I made those shots with a 4x scope...
  6. glockman55

    glockman55 Member

    What scope do you have? It could be the scope. the led sleds are hard on scopes, The recoil all absorbs in the rifle.. Hard on your scope, how long have you used the Led sled? JMO.. Second thought in the Semi-auto 30-06 probably not that much recoil... I have seen it in big magnum cal. bolt actions.. destroy good scope.
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2011
  7. Sniper03

    Sniper03 Supporting Member Supporter


    I agree with the previous posts. There are very few hunting rifles that will not start stringing rounds after the 3rd or 4th round down the barrel when hot unless they are allowed to completely cool for a while. Also, as Willfully stated, your barrel may be fowled! One of the ways I work on a barrel that is suspected of being fowled is to get some Sweets 7.62 Solvent. It has a very high ammonia base so do not mix it with anything in the bore of the rifle. ie Other solvents! Be sure your bore is dry and free of any other chemicals. Then use the Sweets 7.62. Do not let it remain more than 10-15 minutes at a time and then patch it out. Repeat the process until the patch comes out clean. If it is fowled it will take a considerable amount of time to get a clean patch. So be patient! Do not sniff it either :D When done, try your accuracy tests again. It has cured a many of the same problem you are speaking of. But once again as a word of caution! Never mix it with other solvent since it has the capability of etching the bore if contact with other chemicals are present. But great stuff! * If you are going to store the weapon after use be sure to completely dry the bore and lube it. There will be absolutely ZERO Lube in the Bore after using the Sweets!
    I will guarantee you if you think your barrel is clean it is not! Use the Sweets on them and then tell me what you think. There will be the prettiest Turquoise Blue on the patch until the bore is cleaned. It is brass and residue from the barrel that has not come out with normal cleaning. I have won money from time to time on several bets from buddies on the Team tricking them to thinking their rifles were clean. The swore they were perfectly clean and then I used the Sweets and collected! Try it! You might want to keep some around. We used them on the rifles twice per year! It is great bore maintenance if used correctly.

  8. TLuker

    TLuker Active Member

    I think Willfully Armed nailed it with fouled barrel and walking from being hot. The heat alone could easily make it walk like you're describing. The barrel isn't free floating so when the barrel expands from the heat it moves depending on where its touching. Sounds like yours is touching on the bottom and that will make it rise. It's common among semi auto's and it's called stringing. I've got one rifle that starting touching on the left due to warped wood and it walks to the right every time now as it heats up.

    Stringing will not hurt you on hunting because the first shot is cold and that's the only one that really matters. Just make sure you let your barrel really cool down between shots to set your scope, and always pay close attention to that first shot.

    Fouling doesn't help anything either and that could be why you were getting 3in groups all along instead of 1.5" or so. Clean like C3 Shooter suggested and you'll probably see your group size go down with fewer fliers. I would also guess that a fouled barrel would heat up quicker but I'm just guessing on that one?

    Also keep a check on the screw in the end of the forearm. I guess every 742 is a little different, but groups start opening up my 742 when that screw is loose. Sounds like jaxonj's 742 likes it loose? No1 Mk III* Enfield rifles have a screw on the end of the for grip. That screw needs to be loosened or tightened for each gun to get a gun to shoot it's best. It seems that screw also affects 742's in the same way.

    Hope that helps.
  9. fmj

    fmj Active Member

    dunno what your squealing about , If you do it right you shouldnt need more than 1 shot!!!;)
  10. chloeshooter

    chloeshooter Active Member

    I recently picked up a 742 made in last few years of production. The gun is a BDL, beautiful checkered pattern, almost perfect bluing all the way around- and yes there are the beginnings of tell- tale chatter marks on the rails inside the receiver. My choice is simple: limit the rounds put through it (10 or so per year) or have a short service life. It randomly leaves a spent shell casing in the ejection port, I clean the you know what put of it but I know one thing- if I make the first shot count it doesn't matter.

    I picked up a Remington 700 as a "back up", but it has moved into first place for deer hunting, hands down. No design issues there!