Trigger happy

Discussion in 'AR-15 Discussion' started by purehavoc, Feb 1, 2012.

  1. purehavoc

    purehavoc New Member

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    Im in dire need of a different trigger group, however I dont want to break the bank .
    my first AR came with the same LPK I have in my new gun, but gun 1 trigger is great , super smooth , and breaks really well and I am very accurate with it , gun 2 trigger is heavy , gritty and I am just not as accurate with it as I want to be . I really dont have the $200+ plus to spend on a geissele right now so thats out , but I have been looking at the JP orginal trigger . however by the time I buy that kit and their speed hammer Im still looking at near $175 shipped and Im within $15 or so $ for the Geissele Trigger , Still more than I want to spend

    Anyone used the JP trigger with the a factory hammer and get good results ?

    Now keeping in mind I am shooting a scope with this gun and it is my 100+ yard gun , I can keep my groups at 3" dia @ 100 yds but Im not happy with that when I can shoot my savage 3 shot 100 yd groups and just about cover all 3 of them together with a dime , I know my AR isnt probably going to be that precise but I know I can do better than 3" groups @ 100
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2012
  2. purehavoc

    purehavoc New Member

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    Oh and dont tell me to take my scoped upper and put it on my better lower that just turned one problem into a different problem :)
     

  3. mjkeat

    mjkeat New Member

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    Waiting until you can save some more money is probably you're best bet. I don't know of many cheap options that compare.
     
  4. AgentTikki

    AgentTikki New Member

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    Bill Springfield does a good trigger job on your milspec trigger.
    Geissele has a modified milspec trigger for $45 and $65 for a coated trigger.
    Spike's makes a ni-cor battle trigger too.


    What I'm hearing is that you can shoot .5 moa. And you'd like to see if you can do the same with your AR... what kind of ammo are you using?
    Is this a PSA 1x7 twist cl barrel?
     
  5. purehavoc

    purehavoc New Member

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    I figured this was the case so I will just hold off a while and save a little more $$$. Im familar with the Timney triggers and I see they also make one for the AR now thats a drop in around the $200 mark , Giessele just makes so many differnt types how do you choose ? Im a single stage fan myself if that helps
     
  6. AgentTikki

    AgentTikki New Member

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    lol, just saw you've already ready that thread >< sorry
     
  7. purehavoc

    purehavoc New Member

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    I can shoot just a tad over .5 MOA shooting remington UMCs out of my savage and realistically thats not great ammo by any means so im sure I could do a little better with some match grade ammo.
    yes this is my PSA 1X7 CL 16" barrel , Now I dont expect it to preform like a 22" barrel either but 3" is not a happy medium for me either. now on the other hand 1 MOA would make me feel a little better but this trigger just plain sucks and Im not happy with it . I may take it and put it on my other lower just to see how well I can shoot it but I only had one gun with me at the range so I couldnt swap it . :(
    Oh on the ammo in the AR all I have put thru it is 55Gr FMJ Tula and im doing better then 3 MOA with my other gun shootin it so I expected better but maybe it just doesnt shoot the Tula that well either
     
  8. AgentTikki

    AgentTikki New Member

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    That'd be a pretty smart swap. That way you can isolate the trigger as being the issue. BTW barrel length doesn't have any bearing on precision, just speed. is your barrel a ligthweight? I forget....
     
  9. AgentTikki

    AgentTikki New Member

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    Also you might want to try different types of ammo, your barrel might not like tula and umc....just don't go for m193 xm193, xm855, m855 if you're looking for groups. Your Savage might just really like UMC too so take that into consideration. Your 1x7 prolly likes longer stuff.
     
  10. Tackleberry1

    Tackleberry1 New Member

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    Well that just shot my suggestion! I run both my LMT M4 upper "zombie popper" and my 20" J&S free float upper "long range Sally" atop my Bushmaster lower w/Chip McCormic drop in trigger group.

    Only draw back is that the CAR 15 tele stock is not much fun from the bench.

    Tack
     
  11. purehavoc

    purehavoc New Member

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    True , I took the upper off and tore the trigger back apart cleaned it up and put some different grease on it seemed to get rid of some of the grainy feeling but now my issue is it seems like I pull a long way before it ever breaks .
    I have some wolf, UMC, W white box, and some PMC , guess I will have to try them all
     
  12. purehavoc

    purehavoc New Member

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    Ok so I tore this thing down one last time after dinner tonight to recheck the surfaces and see how rough they really were . The hammer was terrible so I took a piece of thin flat steel put some 800 grit around it and smoothed it out in the groove , ran the trigger surface over the 800 a couple times and took a little tension out of the spring ,relubed and whaaa lah , smooth as glass and quite the surprise and not what I expected when I pulled the trigger . Honestly it even feels better than my good trigger , but I'm not going to touch it until I see how this one does .
     
  13. AgentTikki

    AgentTikki New Member

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    If you hit it with Flitz on a qtip you can get to a mirror like shine. Put some nice grease on the sear surfaces and a little on the pins and you'll be good to go. Adjusting spring rates will lighten pull in exhange for longer reset and break to ignition times (I forget the technical term for this).
     
  14. purehavoc

    purehavoc New Member

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    I think this is going to be ok for the purpose of this gun since I will be shooting with a scope mostly past 100 yards there wont be any mag dumps :D well there shouldnt be any mag dumps anyway

    I will let ya know how it does this weekend , my only concerns would be light primer strikes but I think it still hits plenty hard and I really didnt take much out of the spring anyway it went from 6 oclock to the 5 oclock position . I also found that a foam ear plug in between the hammer and mag well works perfect for dry firing with the upper off without cramming a rag or something in it.
    I figured if it does strike light springs are cheap right . I was really impressed with how smooth the 800 grit paper cleaned it up , I took a cleaning pik across the factory surface and found out exactly how rough it was , it didnt look bad but boy was it rough , did it again when finished and it was like dragging it across a piece of glass , super smooth
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2012
  15. AgentTikki

    AgentTikki New Member

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    very nice! range report and more pron plz!
     
  16. purehavoc

    purehavoc New Member

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    Well , the trigger fix did wonders I was 1" MOA @100 so Im not going to complain as this isnt a precision rifle . However I had a couple misfires with several different brands of ammo so the hammer spring I must have gotten a little light so I will be putting a new spring in it , I just wanted to make sure I didnt have a inaccurate barrel , all but one of those light strike rounds eventually fired after reloading back in the mag, The 62 gr hp rounds I ran thru it were alot tighter groups than the 55 gr fmj ammo , and not much adjustment was required to get it sighted back in with the 62 gr ammo .
    Looks like a 1000 rd case of 62 gr HPs will be headed this way and I will convert my other rifle over to 62 gr also and just use the 600+ rds of 55 gr ammo I have left for my bolt rifle .

    Another great 2 hr day behind the rifle , Also took a few handguns with me and shot 5-6 mags of each just to keep up on practice
     
  17. AgentTikki

    AgentTikki New Member

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    Didn't you say you bent the springs a bit?

    Another solution would be lighten you hammer.
     
  18. purehavoc

    purehavoc New Member

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    I only bent the hammer spring .
    Im going to try another hammer spring and not bend it quite so much , if I like that feel of the trigger and have the same issues I will take some material off the back of the hammer , either way the trigger is so much smoother than it was before, it seemed like when I got to the end the trigger where it was ready to break it was hanging up causing me to pull instead of squeezing the trigger, thats all gone now , all you feel is a slight bit of take up and it breaks
     
  19. AgentTikki

    AgentTikki New Member

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    The best milspec trigger job I've personally done got the pull weight down to about 4 to 4.5#. I got a leg off the hammer spring on the side opposite indentation to retain the trigger pin. This necessitated lightening of the hammer which takes 2 mins with a grinder. Best trigger job I've personally done. My Geisseles are still better tho by far.