Tools? (response to 1911 lapping sticky)

Discussion in '1911 Forum' started by CHLChris, Mar 1, 2011.

  1. CHLChris

    CHLChris New Member

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    I have never yet taken apart my 1911 frames. I now have 2 top-tier production 1911's (read under $1000) and I want to keep them in tip-top shape. Cane's slide-lapping sticky brings up a couple of questions:

    -What tools are needed for a total takedown? I know JMB designed it to be taken down with virtually no tools, but if I'd rather not use the sear spring or whatever, what tools should I have?

    -Brakeclean? Is this an alternative to Hoppe's #9 solvent or a different material altogether? Should I use brakekleen as solvent for all my firearms?

    -CLP? I thought Mobil 1 was a good oil. Or is the Mobil 1 just for the slide rails and CLP is for all other surfaces. I don't understand what CLP is or how it should be used.

    Thanks for any help.
     
  2. NGIB

    NGIB New Member

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    I keep a few small "jewelers" screwdrivers near my cleaning supplies and I use them a lot. They're convenient for pushing out the hammer & sear pins and removing the mag catch. They're also real handy for lining up the series 80 link that the sear pin goes through.

    I generally just use my regular solvent for cleaning. I had a revolver that was really gunked up and did use brakeclean to dissolve all the old gummed up grease though.

    Personally, I use Mobil 1 for about every lubrication task. I'm going to test out some Wilson Ultima II lube if it ever gets here...
     

  3. robocop10mm

    robocop10mm Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    A decent brass or plastic bushing wrench is valuable. A 1/4" punch for the mainspring pin.

    Brake Kleen is a harsh cleaner and degreaser. It will strip all traces of oil out of the metal. I use it only in extreme situation and not for routine cleaning.

    CLP is Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant. It is a compromise that does all three "pretty" well. I prefer to use solvent for cleaning and oil for lubricating/protecting. Mobil 1 is a very good oil. 2W20 or 5W30 makes for a very good lubricant. It does not, however, act as the best rust preventative.
     
  4. c3shooter

    c3shooter Administrator Staff Member

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    Chapman (and others) made a durable set of changeable tip HOLLOW GROUND screwdrivers. Use the right one, it does NOT slip out of the screw slot and bugger up the screw head. Think my set is about 25 years old- this is what the new sets look like.

    chapman01.jpg
     
  5. NGIB

    NGIB New Member

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    Dammit, forgot to mention my Dremel and a selection of grinding stones. It's hell getting old and losing focus...:D
     
  6. c3shooter

    c3shooter Administrator Staff Member

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    BAD IRISHMAN! BAD ! No Guiness for you!

    Step away from the Dremel, and nobody will get hurt!



    I will not allow Dremel in same room with a gun unless it is safely protected by having a felt polishing bob installed. No stones. It is much easier to take metal off than to put it back.
     
  7. NGIB

    NGIB New Member

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    Hence the smiley in the post sir. My Dremel stays locked away as it makes my guns VERY nervous...
     
  8. RMP1394-RLTW

    RMP1394-RLTW New Member

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    I have yet to find a better degreaser than shaving FOAM. Barbasal has yet to let me down.

    If you are giving everything a bath anyway, shoot the foam on everything going into the tub, scrub it down, let it sit and rinse with HOT water. A good coat of oil and you are good to go.

    Works great on everythig from a M249 (or 1911) to washing camo off your face!
     
  9. c3shooter

    c3shooter Administrator Staff Member

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    OK- you may have a Guiness.

    And I have taken a bath with shaving cream. Be careful with the menthol variety, tho.....:eek:
     
  10. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    I use clp as a cleaner for powder residue. It does a good job cleaning everything of powder residue soak the gun in clp wipe off. I also use it as a barrel oil run a wet patch down the barrel then a couple of dry put the gun away. After cleaning the barrel with solvent.

    +1 to investing in a bushing driver or bushing wrench. Nothing worse than boogered up bushings.
     
  11. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    Brakleen should only be used in a detail (full tear-down) cleaning. Like Robo said, it leaves the metal completely stripped of any lube and should not be left in this condition for any length of time. I like using it because the spray nozzle lets me clean all the nooks and crannies of the 1911 in one shot. With solvent or CLP and a tooth brush you will be going back after the missed areas repeatedly. Brakleen is fast and effective.

    As far as tools, the following are what I consider necessary to make working on my 1911’s enjoyable. And yes Chris, JMB would roll over in his grave seeing his brilliantly simple design being worked on with this collection of tools:

    [​IMG]

    1. Wheeler Bench Block Wheeler Engineering Bench Block - MidwayUSA

    [​IMG]

    2. Caspian Pocket Smith II Caspian 1911 Pocketsmith 3 - MidwayUSA

    The current version is a Pocket Smith III

    [​IMG]

    3. General Tool Precision Needle Oiler General Tool Precision Needle Oiler - MidwayUSA

    4. Squib Rod Arredondo Squib Rod Multi-Tool Nylon Black - MidwayUSA

    5. Grace USA Brass Hammer Grace USA Brass Hammer 4 oz - MidwayUSA

    6. Wheeler Engineering Punch Set Wheeler Engineering Punch Set 8-Piece Brass - MidwayUSA

    7. Good HOLLOW GROUND screwdriver

    8. Benchmade Folding Tool Kit Benchmade Folding Torx & Screwdriver Tool Kit w/ Knife Sharpener 985995F - Blade HQ

    9. Curved Hemostat

    10. Bushing Bit I got my bushing driver from Alan Smith @ SMITH & ALEXANDER, INC (800)722-1911

    [​IMG]
     
  12. CHLChris

    CHLChris New Member

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    Cane, you always have the coolest tools! Thanks so much for your help.

    Still...CLP: better than oil? For different use than oil?
     
  13. silentghost

    silentghost New Member

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    Cane, does the bench block make take down easier, with the pins and what not?
     
  14. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    CLP (Cleaner, Lubricant, Preservative) is a term applied to most catch-all maintenance products on the market today. (It's easier to sell you one can than three.) Products named CLP are a compromise.

    No single product will do the three jobs as well as a product designed to do each one specifically.

    Cleaner; It's hard to beat Dawn dish soap and hot water to remove dirt and grease/oil from steel. Brakleen does it quicker and much deeper because it is far more toxic. (Don't get it close to anything other than steel. It will ruin the finish on wood stocks and melt plastic.)

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Lubricant; When it comes to metal parts sliding against each other in a hot and carbon contaminated environment what better to use than what the automotive engineers have spent millions of hours and dollars to develop? Mobil 1

    [​IMG]

    Preservative; I have come to find that the best, all-around preservative to be a high tech microcrystalline wax. Renaissance Wax was originally formulated in the British Museum research laboratories in the early 1950's. Use it on everything SS, carbon steel, wood grips, plastic airsoft guns.......

    [​IMG]
     
  15. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    Wheeler Engineering developed this tool specifically for the 1911 pattern pistol.

    It is of tremendous help in 1911 maintenance. The special section for MSH (dis)assembly is worth the $15 cost alone.

    It is a must-have!

    Now if you want to splurge, take a look at the Roto-Stand.

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C97kiwf33nU&feature=player_embedded]YouTube - Pistol Vise[/ame]



    Roto-Stand << Click Here



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. CHLChris

    CHLChris New Member

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    I'm now just really fascinated by this CLP thing. Where does WD-40 fit into this continuum? Considering that "CLP" is a compromise product, what is a good general-purpose CLP? I think you, Cane, offered 6 CLP options in a previous post's photo. I'll go back and look again.

    I'm just beginning to think that so many products labeled "For Guns" is just general purpose stuff placed into smaller bottles with larger price tags.
     
  17. NGIB

    NGIB New Member

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    Ding, ding, ding - we have a winner!!!
     
  18. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    This one?

    [​IMG]

    First, take the WD-40 and put it in the same lockbox you keep your dremel! I have a TRO that keeps both 100 yards from my guns! Great stuff, not on guns!

    If you want a spray and pray CLP, get Brake Free. NOT WD-40!

    The D-Lead (the big one in the center) is hand soap that safely removes heavy metal from your hands after a good gun cleaning/range trip.

    +1 Dave, give that man a cigar!

    [​IMG] 1 oz Rem Oil - $2.00/oz or $64/qt

    [​IMG] 1 qt Mobil 1 - $6.50 = $0.20/oz
     
  19. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    One more thing, all we have discussed is the cleaning and lube of your gun, NOT the barrel bore!

    The contaminates there are quite different. Copper, Lead and other corrosive items.

    Enter the solvents.

    We should leave this area of maintenance for another thread.

    But........for your 45's I'd use Hoppe's 9 Semi-Auto.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. CHLChris

    CHLChris New Member

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    Oh but the Dremel is still on my bench after grinding down the feed ramp...I read about that on THR.

    NOT!

    No Dremel
    No "polishing"
    No THR
    WD-40 for door hinges

    Got it :D

    My desire for more info on cleaners is satiated. Thanks for all yo' help!!