TIPS ON ACCURIZING THE MINI-14, Part Five

Discussion in 'Mini-14 Forum' started by masterPsmith, Mar 13, 2010.

  1. masterPsmith

    masterPsmith New Member

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    TRIGGER GROUP:
    A trigger job on it's own will not make your rifle more accurate. It will, however, make it easyer to shoot more accurately. A light, glassy smooth consistant trigger pull will help you keep your sights on target from the time you put your finger on the trigger until the time it goes bang. I usually don't recemend someone do their own trigger work unless they are experienced and know what they are doing and why it is done. There are too many mistakes to be made and can result in a very dangerous firearm when not done properly. So with that, use your own good judgement. If in doubt, have a gunsmith do the work. Depending on the gunsmith and the quality of his/her work, a trigger job will vary anywhere between $65 and $150. Shop around and check their work. There is nothing worst or more dangerous than a botched trigger job.

    The Mini-14 trigger is a two stage, military type trigger. Most of them from the factory have a heavy, gritty take-up and a not so crisp break. The average pull from the factory is around 6 pounds. Not very conducive to accurate shooting, but it makes the factory attorneys happy...
    Our goal here is to get the pull weight to around 3 to 3 1/2 pounds, with a glassy smooth take-up and a crisp, consistant break. This will be done by stoning and polishing the sear surfaces and doing no spring work.
    If you have a Dremmel, DON'T even think about. DO NOT use a polishing wheel. Using these will round off the right angles of the sear noses. You don't want these to be distorted or rounded in any way. They must be sharp for a crisp, consistant break. You will need some good small stones or a good stoning steel (small,flat,precision ground piece of steel used with very fine wet/dry paper or fine grit paste for stoning). You will also need some sort of devise or jig to hold your work for stoning. Don't try to stone sear surfaces freehand.
    If you use a stoning steel, I recemend that you use 240 grit wet/dry with oil to remove any imperfections, machine marks and burrs. On my final polish, I use either 1200 or 2000 grit wet/dry paper with oil. Make sure you stone at flat right angles to keep the surfaces flat. DO NOT change the angles of the sear engagement surfaces. Polish the rounded hammer nose in the same manner. If you take your time and be carefull, you will end up with a very nice, match grade trigger. DO NOT shorten the sear engagement surfaces for a shorter take-up or first stage pull. I have seen few customer guns double or go full auto by them making this mistake.

    The following list is for the photos that I will post in the same order. I will not go into all the dissasembly and re-assembly, as you should already know this if you are to attempt your own trigger job. On re-assembly, I use a very fine moly based paste to lube the sear engagement surfaces.

    1 Trigger group.
    2 Remove hammer strut and spring.
    3 Remove trigger.
    4 Remove secondary sear.
    5 Shows areas to polish on primary and secondary sears.
    6 Shows primary and secondary sear engagement surfaces to be
    polished on the hammer nose.
    7-8 Shows how the sear engagement surfaced on the hammer nose
    should look when done.
    9 Shows how the trigger primary sear should look when done.
    10 Shows how the secondary sear should look when done.
    11-12 Shows the polished areas of the primary and secondary
    sears where the hammer nose makes contact.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 13, 2010
  2. masterPsmith

    masterPsmith New Member

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    Continuation of photos............................
     

    Attached Files:


  3. masterPsmith

    masterPsmith New Member

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    Continuation of photos...........
     

    Attached Files:

  4. masterPsmith

    masterPsmith New Member

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    Bump. Still needs to be a STICKY............
     
  5. doctherock

    doctherock New Member

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    I do believe I will pass on the DIY. Looks like it will be worth the money to have a pro do it for me. Good info though
     
  6. Californiagunner

    Californiagunner New Member

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    Mini-14 Trigger Job

    masterPsmith: Excellent pictures ! I have the tools and skill to do this. Can you post the amounts and angles sanded and stoned on these parts ?

    Thanks, Wayne
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2010
  7. masterPsmith

    masterPsmith New Member

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    Wayne,
    All you want to do is remove the tool marks, burrs, etc. and polish the engagement surfaces. Don't change any existing angles or reduce the size of the engagement surfaces on the hooks. Done properly, this will reduce your pull by half. Take your time and and don't hurry. Check your work often under magnification. Most of the time, the amount of material removed in the process is up to .001" and usually at the most, .002" on the engagement surfaces.


    Jim...................
     
  8. Californiagunner

    Californiagunner New Member

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    Mini-14 Trigger Job

    Jim: Thank you sir! That's all I needed. I had done a light job of standing and stoning (brown & white ceramics) and the pull dropped from 5-1/2# to 4-1/2+#. I "chickened out" to go any further until knew what I was doing was right, and then I saw your post. Now I can work (ease) my way done to 3-1/2 to 4#. I'll let you know how it worked out.

    Thanks again, Wayne
     
  9. rifleman55

    rifleman55 New Member

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    The one thing not mentioned is when smoothing the secondary sear, it will sometimes need a little metal taken off the contact point that holds it from going forward.
    It has to be within a spicific range or you will have problems with the rifle doubling.
    If doubling becomes a problem, the secondary sear is what needs adjustment.
    Be careful, it's a restricted part. Shorten the contact point too much, you can lay it flat and peen the end to lenghten it.
    If the rifle doubles, the contact point usually needs just a very slight bit of metal taken off so that the secondary sear is closer to the main sear, but you do need clearence so that the hammer can get past both to reset.

    John K
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2011
  10. Vikingdad

    Vikingdad New Member

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    What are your thoughts on installing an over-travel stop screw? It looks to me like one could rather easily be installed, but the way I am thinking of doing it might necessitate making a small cavity in the stock to accommodate the screw. Once set it could be lock-tighted in place.
     
  11. Vikingdad

    Vikingdad New Member

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    Also, would it not make sense to polish the hammer nose where it contacts the sears?
     
  12. masterPsmith

    masterPsmith New Member

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    An overtravel stop screw is not needed on the Mini and not recemended.

    Jim
     
  13. masterPsmith

    masterPsmith New Member

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    The hammer nose is polished on every trigger job I do. I overlooked posting that photo when I did the series..

    You might want to go to the introduction section and tell us a little about yourself. It is customary for newcomers to do so......................

    Jim.............
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2011
  14. Vikingdad

    Vikingdad New Member

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    "You might want to go to the introduction section and tell us a little about yourself. It is customary for newcomers to do so....."

    My bad. I'll do that
     
  15. Mongo

    Mongo Active Member Supporter

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    Trigger spring question

    How do you delete a post?
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2011
  16. rifleman55

    rifleman55 New Member

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    I put one in mine, drilled through the pad on the back of the trigger guard9behind the rear of the opening for the trigger at the rear) at the right angle, threaded it and put an adjustable screw in it.
    You must allow for a little additional movement of the trigger after it breaks being a semi auto.
    When It's just right, I use red lock tite to hold it in place.
    Easy to do, but don't try to adjust it too tight, leave a little overtravel.
    It's not really necessary, but just about every rifle and handgun I have has one. Go too tight and it just might not work when you need it to, you have been warned.

    John K
     
  17. scottybaccus

    scottybaccus New Member

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    I installed one as described, after seeing a video of it done on one of the TNP videos. It was well worth the effort and I must disagree with MasterP, it is very beneficial and highly recommended by any that have tried it.