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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I shoot 100-200 rounds of.45 auto 230 gr. FMJ at the range. My ejected brass has a dent in them. Since I'd have to by new brass, is it cost effective for me to reload or continue to buy new ammo. I have no reloading equipment right now, nor have I ever reloaded. Any thoughts?
 

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Yeah. I got a question - Does ALL of your brass have this "dent"? In what part of the case?


JD
 

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I have a Hi-point .40 S&W that occasionally dents the side of the spent casings but I don't know why. Please don't make fun cause I bought a Hi-Point, I bought it when I turned 21 just to plink in the backyard. It dosn't do it very often though.

Can Berdan primed ammunition be reloaded? I have some Wolf .223 cases and some CCI 9mm Luger cases that are berdan primed. I always pick up my brass to keep them out of mower blades and to reload later, Always Recycle.
 

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Dented pistol brass will usually be corrected when running it though the loading dies.

It's not fair to ask a bunch of reloaders if it's worth doing, go for it! IT'S NOT DIFFICULT or few or us could do it. ;)

Berdan stuff can be reloaded but it's rarely worth the hassle if boxer primed cases are available.
 

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I have a Hi-point .40 S&W that occasionally dents the side of the spent casings but I don't know why. Please don't make fun cause I bought a Hi-Point, I bought it when I turned 21 just to plink in the backyard. It dosn't do it very often though.

Can Berdan primed ammunition be reloaded? I have some Wolf .223 cases and some CCI 9mm Luger cases that are berdan primed. I always pick up my brass to keep them out of mower blades and to reload later, Always Recycle.

Berdan primers can be removed with several tools from different manufacturers. Lee makes the cheapest tool - a Decapper and Base - each cost about $3.50. Guaranteed for life against breakage. RCBS makes a better Berdan Decapping Tool for $49.27. The primer pockets should be reamed or swaged after decapping to remove the "crimp" and restore the primer pocket to a perfectly round state. This is done with a Primer Pocket Swager - RCBS sells one that mounts in the press, just like a die, and costs $26.48. Unless you buy a lot of military brass, it's not worth buying the decapper and swager. Military brass is thicker - walled, and consequently you will get more reloads from it, but it's another two operations to do before you have a completed round of ammo! If you have a second cheap single stage press to dedicate to this task it is quicker. The following link is for the cheapest supplier of reloading equipment, powder, bullets, and primers that I have found:
WWW.MIDSOUTHSHOOTERS.COM
They are honest people and pack your order to save money on shipping - they also pack Primers and Powder TOGETHER to save you money on the mandatory $20 HazMat fee. Many places mislead their customers into thinking this cannot be done, and charge you $40. Not true! If the total weight is less than 60lbs. Primers CAN be shipped with powder...
P.S. - I have a $900 AR-15 that dents my brass - the ejected shells hit the shell deflector and dent the case necks - this dent is removed during the sizing operation and is nothing to worry about! On your HiPoint, the cases are probably being flipped into the rear of the ejection port on their way out of the receiver. Depending on what weight bullets you are using this dent is going to be either more or less pronounced, due to the increased or decreased recoil energy.
 

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Once you remove the Berdan primer from your cases, can you replace them with Box primers to save the extra effort next time? I would'nt worry about it but I have tons of military cases lying around and figured I'd use them up first to save on cost.
 

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Dented brass is ok as long as it is minor dent nothing that is caved in half way.

A lot of my brass is dented after I fire. I run them threw the sizing die and bang all fixed. Might want to have your pistol looked at by a gunsmith.

You can get 230gr Rainer platted bullets dirt cheap. Powder is not all that expensive either I run Hodgdon titegroup at 5 gr Powder is about $20 a pound and divide that by 7000 I use 1 cent of powder per round. This thread will show you what you need to start.
 

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Thanx for the info, unfortunately I don't have access to the knowledge base yet, so I can't see the thread you've posted. Not yet at least.
 

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Once you remove the Berdan primer from your cases, can you replace them with Box primers to save the extra effort next time? I would'nt worry about it but I have tons of military cases lying around and figured I'd use them up first to save on cost.
Yes - the primer pockets are the same size from Berdan to Boxer once you swage them. If you have that much military brass it's probably a good investment to get the "decapper/swaging tool".
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Yeah. I got a question - Does ALL of your brass have this "dent"? In what part of the case?


JD
Yup, every case, same spot. About the mid point on the side of the case. It's not deep at all. I'm heading to the range tomorrow. I'll get a pic. Although from what y'all are saying I should be fine re-using my spent brass.
 

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If it's a MilSpec 1911 this is happening with you can have your ejection port lowered and "Flared" and perhaps the extractor tuned all for around $100 and it should top completely .
 

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That is a common "problem" with the 1911 platform. Not really a problem but correctable with a lowered and radiused ejection port. The brass will mostly iron out with resizing and upon firing will med its self. Of course a new dent will appear upon ejection.
 

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After your brass has been tumbled and lubed up, the first two steps to reloading, although some say you don't really need to tumble every round, you run the spent cases through your decapping/resizing die. It pops the primer out and gets most of the dents all but completely out in one step. KEEP THAT DENTED BRASS! It's probably still good for the most part. However, you should be looking for cracks and if there is anything dented to the point the case is pinched in half, just chuck it.
 

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dragunovsks,

creased brass is weakened and should be trashed, but even a bad dent can be straightened by running it over the case expander/belling die, then following with the normal loading sequence of sizer, belling, etc.

berdan-to-boxer conversions are a real pita...needed for an obscure caliber that can't be accommodated in any other way, but if the brass is available without too much fuss, i'd opt out.

wolf .223 is usually steel-case and cci berdan primed stuff is aluminum...neither is a viable candidate for reloading

budman

ignorance is its own reward
 
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