stoning and lubing

Discussion in 'General Rifle Discussion' started by vmonty, Jan 9, 2010.

  1. vmonty

    vmonty New Member

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    ive been thinking about stoning my bolt camming surface on my 24/47 mauser to tackle my stiff bolt problem. the trouble is im not sure what that means. where is the camming surface?? is it the track that includes the seer?? or is it the track that my cocking piece lives in? or should i give up and give it to smithy ....or just get stronger... another question is what type of stone is used for this? one of those fine grit stones that come with knives or is there a certain type to buy??
     
  2. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    Sorry, I thought this was an invitation to a frat party! [​IMG]
     

  3. skullcrusher

    skullcrusher New Member

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    Arkansas Stone. The ones that come with knife sharpening kits are too coarse....
     
  4. vmonty

    vmonty New Member

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    thank you ...both of you
     
  5. stalkingbear

    stalkingbear Active Member

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    Rather than stoning, I would suggest hand lapping the bolt in. That way you're not taking an excessive amount off or in the wrong place. Also once you get done a hand lapped bolt will be slicker than by any other method without causing more play in the bolt. Hand lapping the bolt is easy. If you're interested in hand lapping the bolt- http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1142/Product/SILICON_CARBIDE_ABRASIVE_COMPOUND

    Please post here or contact me for instructions on how to do it.
     
  6. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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  7. skullcrusher

    skullcrusher New Member

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    Bear and Cane know better than I do. I was giving you the name of a fine stone that will not remove much material and even give a "polished" look.

    Now, I have to ask Bear and Cane...during hand lapping, do you figure 8?
     
  8. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    I lapped my slide to receiver on Fenrir to eliminate the FTF issue. Stripped the gun to minimum and slopped the compound on as if it were lube. Manually cycled the slide until the grit felt smooth. Cleaned and stepped up to the next grit and started over. Repeat until you run out of grits or get the results you are looking for.

    I got the results. Slide to frame coefficient of friction had to be reduced by a magnitude! Tuned the recoil spring and barrel bushing (Also lapped) resulting in a 100% running Fenrir!! Woot.
     
  9. stalkingbear

    stalkingbear Active Member

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    You're misunderstanding skull-when hand lapping a bolt, you put lapping compound on the bolt and work the bolt as if you were shooting & operating it. What you do is put the lapping compound on the bolt and work it until your arm is ready to fall off, then 972 more times:rolleyes:-while applying lapping compound fairly frequently. Be SURE to clean ALL of the lapping compound off after you're done.
     
  10. vmonty

    vmonty New Member

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    hey thank you again!! i will def get on in. but if you guys can clear up one thing for me... when marking the lug with a black maker i should stop laping when the black mark is no longer rubbed off?? i know its a dumb question.
     
  11. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    Not a dumb question at all.

    Where the marker wears off will indicate the high spots or contact points.

    You should understand the bolt design in order to get the optimum fit. Not all parts you mark with black will necessarily be designed as contact areas.

    Each time your arm falls off, (A Bear technical term, Scull) clean up the mess, look at the black area and determine if you are still improving the fit.

    It will be easy after a while, the lapped in areas will look polished. As you near completion, and after your cleanup, put a dab of oil on the bolt and run it home a few times to feel for results. If you want a better fit, clean the lube and replace it with more lapping compound. Cycle the bolt again until your arm falls off again. (See technical lexicon above.)

    Do the clean-up and start the procedure over again until you get the results you are looking for.

    Remember the object of this exercise is not the removal of the black marker, that's just another tool in the process. The end to this lapping process is the subjective improvement or fix for your "stiff bolt problem".

    Oh yea, come up for air every so often and post your progress.

    Good luck.

    The FTF CrackerBarrel GunSmiths.
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2010