Springfield 1911 A1 GI

Discussion in '1911 Forum' started by clgustaveson, Nov 8, 2010.

  1. clgustaveson

    clgustaveson New Member

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    Hey all,

    I got a 1911 A1 GI with the intention of doing some work on it myself, I wanted to test it out to guage the actual difference after the trigger job etc.

    One thing I noticed was the rounds would catch, it seemed like the slid would lock up before cycling all the way, I took the gun apart (as I should have done before) and noticed it was quite dry. I gave it a good lube job and made sure the slide had minimal friction and "boom" she went with not problems.

    Also, the finish on the barrel on these things is about one step up from a dry erase marker, I want to polish up the barrel down to its stainless base. Any hints on the best way to do this so it doesn't look like a hack job?
     
  2. NGIB

    NGIB New Member

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    If the gun was bought new, I'd put at least 500 rounds through it before making any mods. Keep it clean and lubed and shoot it a lot - then you can begin to make it what you want it to be. I'm not a huge fan of generic polishing as I see no real need to do so. Start stocking up on good quality magazines as your first investment...
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2010

  3. clgustaveson

    clgustaveson New Member

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    Done, I put 600 through it on Saturday


    - But let me qualify that by saying my first intention was to not shoot it all until I had made the changes...
     
  4. NGIB

    NGIB New Member

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    I have 1911s ranging from a near stock GI to ones that have all the bells & whistles. My advice to all new 1911 owners is to shoot the gun a lot and really understand the platform before making any wholesale changes. A Springer GI is a nice basic gun but requires a lot of work & cost to turn it into the next level. The ejection port needs to be flared & lowered and the slide needs to be dovetailed for new sights for starters. My GI is staying basically as is but I did fit a better trigger and installed a ring hammer as I detest hammer bite. To provide clearance for the hammer, I just ground a relief into the factory grip safety...

    [​IMG]
     
  5. clgustaveson

    clgustaveson New Member

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    Nice, I have dismantled the gun and read plenty of books, I have a good working understanding of the platform, which will make more sense when I get to actually putting these parts on.

    I have all the parts on my blog, mostly cosmetic. But I did order some lighter sear springs and some other parts.

    I dont really think the sights are a big deal to me... I am a good shot and my pattern at 25 yards was still 70%... I don't see the need for competition sights unless I am shooting in the dark.
     
  6. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

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    Congratulations.
     
  7. NGIB

    NGIB New Member

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    Be exceedingly careful on going to light on the springs or you'll have reliability problems. Not enough tension on the sear can cause hammer follow which is not a good thing. I'm not a real fan of the super light triggers on 1911s as I prefer a 3-4 pound pull. If you're planning to replace the MSH (to get rid of the lock) you'll need to order the plunger, cap, retainer pin, and new mainspring.

    BTW, I couldn't see a target at 25 yards so anything over 10-12 yards is moot for me...
     
  8. clgustaveson

    clgustaveson New Member

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    I haven't read anything that would indicate I need to get rid of the lock... does it cause problems?

    I only want to go to around 3, the springer 1911 comes stock around 5 right?
     
  9. NGIB

    NGIB New Member

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    No the lock has caused no problems that I know of, I just like all of my 1911s to use standard parts & springs rather than the proprietary stuff. Trigger pull on GIs can vary a lot as they are the base model gun...
     
  10. clgustaveson

    clgustaveson New Member

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    Yeah, mine seems decently heavy but its not bad, I just want it a it lighter probably around 4 lbs...

    I know the sear springs are very delicate flowers, I am a very cautious person so I don't plan being aggresive with it.

    I have a safe, so I may change the MSH later, but for now it doesn't seem like I need to... Like I said, the changes are mostly cosmetic with minor function alterations, I just don't feel like a carry gun needs adjustable sights, railing, or even a tighter bushing... I am not concerned about scoring points on an assailant! haha
     
  11. NYPD13

    NYPD13 New Member

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    I have a Springer GI45 High Cap. I did a bit of polishing and acquired a few Para Ordinance 14-45 mags and left everything else alone. It performs perfectly so I see no need to mess with it.
     
  12. clgustaveson

    clgustaveson New Member

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    Not a double stack fan... I like the thinner models. Personally I just wanted it to look more custom and also have a bit more rapid fire capability.

    Like I said, I am not doing the work for the performance benfits completely... The square hammer is cool looking, the trigger looks cool, there are weight benifits amongst speed benefits but honestly... its the looks.
     
  13. NYPD13

    NYPD13 New Member

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    Sounds like you should have got the Mil Spec instead.
     
  14. clgustaveson

    clgustaveson New Member

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    I hardly see a reason for dotted sights and throated barrel... the bevel is the only improvement and I can make that adjustment myself... I will be putting on a high grip beavertail...

    The difference between the GI and Mil Spec is so minute... I would rather do the modifying myself.
     
  15. NGIB

    NGIB New Member

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    Actually there's quite a bit of difference between a GI and a Mil-Spec and I always suggest a Mil-Spec as the best base gun to build from. Nothing wrong with a GI but it requires more work to upgrade...
     
  16. clgustaveson

    clgustaveson New Member

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    Can you list the differences? I have looked at em both, and shot them both and it seemed like a polished ramp, throated barrel, three-dot sights, and the ejection port is beveled...
     
  17. NYPD13

    NYPD13 New Member

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    Just be careful, I find parts swapping and modifications can be quite addictive. Case in point, the only thing original on my Ruger 10/22 is the bolt!
     
  18. clgustaveson

    clgustaveson New Member

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    Haha I don't mind it at all.. parts aren't that expensive... My next project is going to be building a Wilson Combat from parts...
     
  19. NGIB

    NGIB New Member

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    You hit the high spots but the actual barrel assembly on the Mil-Spec is different as it's stainless, the Mil-Spec and the Loaded use the same barrel. The flared & lowered ejection port is really nice to have as brass doesn't hit you in the face nor is it dented if you reload. The magwell on the Mil-Spec is also beveled and the sights are much better than the tiny GI sights. The Mil-Spec is worth the difference in price...
     
  20. clgustaveson

    clgustaveson New Member

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    I hate the hooplah about the sights being crappy on the GI... I don't mind nice sights but I have never paid for sights.