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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
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I find that the 14-pound pull or thereabouts on my Ruger was a bit much and affected accuracy so I wanted to lighten it up. I know it is by no means a target gun but it couldn't hurt so I ordered the SP-101 spring kit from Wolff Gun Springs at www.gunsprings.com.


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It was 10 bucks plus the shipping, so around 14 dollars. It comes with four springs, three different weight hammer springs, and one trigger spring. They say if you go with the lightest hammer spring you should replace the trigger spring with the one in the kit.

This pak contains 1 each 9, 10, and 12 pound reduced power hammer springs for Ruger SP-101 series revolvers and 1 each 8 pound trigger return spring allowing adjustment for lighter and smoother trigger and hammer action. Note: Factory trigger return spring is 10 pounds, factory hammer spring is 14 pounds.

Here is a video that shows how to do it. Follow all the precautions they say about not pulling the trigger when it's apart. I found out the hard way because somehow I pulled it.



I don't know how but I moved the trigger pawl, and a teeny tiny spring and plunger went flying! I looked and looked but never could find the parts. No touch trigger if you can help it! Note that I did not disassemble the trigger assembly as they do in the video, all I did was replace the trigger return spring which was fairly easy.

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Here is the complete trigger assy.


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^^^before I wrote on the image^^^

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I ordered the parts from Sturm-Ruger and they sent them at no charge and no shipping! Can't beat that!

I just got it all put back together and the trigger pull feels like it's a little more than half of what it was! When I get to the range, I'll post a range report next week sometime. It wasn't that hard once I got it apart and after decades of working on tiny parts and stuff in transmissions, it was fairly easy except for the lost parts. So if you think you wanna give it a try, go for it!
 

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Thank you for posting this. I have an SP-101 and I also find the trigger pull to be excessive. I have wondered how difficult it is to change the springs and what the net result would be. It sounds like a reasonable project to take on and there is some real benefit to the change.
 

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I did the exact same thing only I found the spring. Did you put the SS shims on the trigger pivot ? That makes it a little better yet. SP 101’s are one of the finest revolvers but the triggers are awful single or double action.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did the exact same thing only I found the spring. Did you put the SS shims on the trigger pivot ? That makes it a little better yet. SP 101’s are one of the finest revolvers but the triggers are awful single or double action.
No, my kit didn't have them, but it's way better so if I don't have light strikes, it's good.
 

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I did the spring job first along with a little smoothing with a stone. Big improvement but I also had the shim kit which I did next and it definitely made it better. My apologies for misleading you ,I shimmed the hammer pivot not the trigger. I didn’t want to go there again cause of the flying springs. Hammer can be smoothed and shimmed without messing with trigger assembly.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did the spring job first along with a little smoothing with a stone. Big improvement but I also had the shim kit which I did next and it definitely made it better. My apologies for misleading you ,I shimmed the hammer pivot not the trigger. I didn’t want to go there again cause of the flying springs. Hammer can be smoothed and shimmed without messing with trigger assembly. View attachment 244613
I polished what I could and am happy with it. Thanks.
 

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Somewhat a diversion but does anyone know the purpose of part numbers 27 & 28? I ordered them and plan to put them in as they aren't in my SP101. It does shoot without them but Ruger put them in the gun for a reason. I just don't know what that reason is. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Somewhat a diversion but does anyone know the purpose of part numbers 27 & 28? I ordered them and plan to put them in as they aren't in my SP101. It does shoot without them but Ruger put them in the gun for a reason. I just don't know what that reason is. Thanks.
Ruger says they are a Front Latch Pivot Lock and Front Latch Pivot Lock Spring.


No idea and don't know if they're in mine or not.
 

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Ruger says they are a Front Latch Pivot Lock and Front Latch Pivot Lock Spring.


No idea and don't know if they're in mine or not.
I'll know when a gunsmith puts them in. I took the gun and parts in yesterday. They're tiny parts not meant for me to deal with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Went to the range today and shot a hundred rounds of 38/357. The 357 was some off-brand imported stuff, and I threw the box away so I can't recall the name. The 38 was American Eagle. All the 38 went bang but I had two light strikes with the magnum stuff. I don't know if it's the ammo or the gun seeing how it was no name import, but I'm just assuming. So, given my paranoia, I researched the trigger job and people that have had that happen say they took the 9 pound hammer spring out and replaced it with the ten-pound spring and all was good. I changed the spring. I can't tell much difference in the pull so that's good. I'll shoot it again this week and let you know.

Now for accuracy improvement. I'd say it was all good. This is one of the Shoot n See targets I used.

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It's a super crappy image because my flip phone will not be recognized by my PC so I took a picture of the image on the phone with my camera and copied it here. I'm happy with that accuracy if the light strikes are done. Oh yeah, it was at about 10 yards.
 

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The more smoothly you can get the parts to function the lower you can go on the hammer spring. Make sure you have no friction between hammer strut and retainer. I have an 8 in mine and it fires every time.
 

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Polishing the trigger return spring channel was the best gains for me.
When I began the process I found so much chatter from rough factory machining I couldn't even run the 1/4 inch drill bit in.

When everything was polished and shimmed it improved to the smoothness of a Russian dump truck.

Signed,
S&W spoiled.
 

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Somewhat a diversion but does anyone know the purpose of part numbers 27 & 28? I ordered them and plan to put them in as they aren't in my SP101. It does shoot without them but Ruger put them in the gun for a reason. I just don't know what that reason is. Thanks.
"Problem" solved. Ruger schooled gunsmith said the parts were in the gun when I took it to him. It's just hard to tell. So, now I have peace of mind and a spare pin and spring. It's all good. Cleaned the gun, loaded it, and put it where I keep it.
 

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I just like Rugers. Simple, nothing exotic, they work. My 181 series Mini-14 should have a "shot out" barrel but it's as accurate as the day I bought it which is accurate over100 yards with stock sights which is about all I bought it for. It was meant to be a truck gun when training our black lab on the national circuit and it has killed everything but big game. Very fun gun. Same with the Security Six and SP101.
 
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