Snap caps=cheap insurance

Discussion in 'Training & Safety' started by AFerree, Oct 20, 2013.

  1. AFerree

    AFerree New Member

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    I was at the local range to pick up some snap caps for the M&P and one of the SRO's at the counter told me a short story. The had thought snap caps were worthless but he recently broke the firing pin of his handgun. He now has to buy and replace his firing pin AND buy some snap caps. But one thing he said is that he dry fired around 300-400 times a day. So next time you have a dry fire session or see snap caps at the store, you might consider buying some.
     
  2. MisterMcCool

    MisterMcCool Well-Known Member Supporter

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  3. partdeux

    partdeux Well-Known Member

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    I would have a tough time believing that he dry fired 3-400 times a day, AND that his dry firing caused a problem.
     
  4. Doc3402

    Doc3402 New Member

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    If he is accurate, and if he means every day, that's a minimum of 2,100 falls a week. Dry fire or loaded, you're going to have failures eventually.
     
  5. AFerree

    AFerree New Member

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    He does work at the range though. I think he trainer, but I'm not certain. Those were his words and what reason does he have to lie?
     
  6. Doc3402

    Doc3402 New Member

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    I'm not trying to call anybody a liar. What I am saying is that he might be blaming the lack of a snap cap, when the reality may be simple parts failure due to excessive use. We don't know that it wouldn't have happened with a snap cap. We don't know that it wouldn't have happened if he was firing 300 to 400 live rounds a day. All we know is that it did happen.
     
  7. Rentacop

    Rentacop New Member

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    Here's AGI's article on making your own snap caps :

    WHY & How to Make "Snap Caps"
    We received this question from an AGI Student:
    "I just came into possession of a Ruger #3 in 22 hornet. And I was wondering if it would
    damage the rifle if I practiced firing with no round in it?" Thanks. Dan
    Dan: It's never really a good idea to repetitively drop the hammer on an empty chamber,
    because if there isn't a primer to soften or Stop the forward motion of the firing pin, you risk
    breaking it, or causing a burr to form. (With some guns like the 1911 it is less of a problem due
    to the floating firing pin design). I would suggest that you purchase or make "snap caps" (see
    the article below) which have spring-loaded "dummy primers" that absorb the impact.
    You can get them from Brownells, Midway and other places. Or use empty cases with fired
    primers, but be careful not to get a loaded round mixed in. You could also make a set of snap
    caps. You also never want to dry fire rimfires. Because the firing pin will hit the barrel at the
    edge of the chamber and "peen" some metal into the chamber causing jams and misfires. The
    "fix" for a chamber moderately damage in this fashion is to use a special hardened tapered
    chamber tool that pushes the metal back into place. Just removing the burr, by it's self may
    result in an unsupported area behind the rim that will not allow for solid positive ignition.
    Here is an excellent way to make your own, cheap snap caps. This is especially useful for those
    cartridges that are now out of manufacture or hard to find. All you need are some basic tools that
    would be in most homes and a reloading press.
    1. "Load" a bullet into an unprimed case as you normally would on any reloading press,
    minus any powder. (Don't prime the cartridge, but leave this hole empty and free
    for the rubber that will replace the primer which the firing pin will strike)
    2. Cut a bit of rubber, from the end of a pencil if you like, or use nylon or any other soft
    rubber/plastic and turn the diameter down to just a bit bigger by a few thousandths then
    that of the primer pocket. This can be achieved with any blade, but I found thin ones
    best, such as a scalpel or razor. The diameter can be guessed or measured with a dial
    calliper. Leave about a 1/16" to 1/8" of rubber extending, above the bottom of the case,
    when the rubber has been pressed into the primer hole.
    3. Glue the rubber into place with super glue or epoxy. Then trim flush with the case.
    Trimming can be achieved again, by using a thin, sharp blade to achieve a level, flat
    surface. OR sanding lightly across using a flat surface as backing to the sandpaper.

    4. You can leave the rubber natural or colour it with a permanent marker to distinguish it
    from live cartridges. Any colour can be chosen for your own preference.

    5. Drill a couple of holes into the sides of the case to ensure it is easily distinguishable from
    live cartridges. This can be achieved using either a mini drill or electric drill. The former is
    my preference, as it gives more speed control and can be more precise. If clamping the
    case to drill, and you really should be careful not to deform the case, as this will end in
    tears when you try to load the snap cap into the breach of you rifle or pistol. Before
    drilling, mark where you want the hole(s) and tap very gently with a fine punch. You are
    now ready to drill the hole, as the punch mark will stop the drill sliding on the rounded
    surface of the case. Using a starting punch can also deform the case, so be careful.

    Do ensure that there is no burr left on any of the holes that are drilled. A needle file and
    emery cloth will make short work of anything sharp left on the brass. Or you can use a
    center drill.And finally, rub the final product with a little fine emery cloth or wire wool, to
    clean all surfaces. Make sure that all signs of 'super glue' are gone or dry. The last thing
    you want is unnoticed 'super glue' fixing the snap cap permanently into your favourite
    firearm.

    If you want to, further colour can be added to the base of the case to flag it up as a
    snap cap.
    And there you have it, a new snap cap. It will work with any caliber, so have a go!

    This is an easy and effective way of making a cheap, long lasting snap cap. I have tried it and
    it works well. If the rubber ever wears out, just replace it.


    Good Shooting,
    Gene Kelly
    President AGI
     
  8. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Just remember what are snap caps and what is ammunition.

    There have been instances where someone had a brain fade and pulled the trigger on a firearm kept for protection thinking they put caps in first.

    (Why don't manufacturers include snap caps with a new firearm if they think the caps are useful?)
     
  9. Rentacop

    Rentacop New Member

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    Snap caps should be colored red to distinguish them from real ammo .

    The caps can be useful as dummy rounds for training purposes such as practicing loading, unloading, jam clearing and press-checking .
     
  10. G21_45

    G21_45 New Member

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    Here comes #1!

    Glock, Inc.'s official position on dry firing, now, is NOT TO DO IT without using snap caps. What a reversal of policy that is - Huh! Since the factory's, also, been dickering around lately with MIM strikers that would, however, seem to make sense.

    Another good use for snap caps is in what the NRA calls, 'ball and dummy' drills.
     
  11. Rentacop

    Rentacop New Member

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    Here's a link on Glock's advice : http://www.glockforum.com/entries/Should-You-Dry-Fire-a-Glock.html

    " Generally, dry firing the Glock pistol is not a problem, however, when taken to excess, e.g., thousands of dry firings, Glock now recommends the use of snap-caps.
    When taken to the extreme, the breech-face can be damaged.

    Best regards,
    (Name redacted)
    Glock Inc, Technical Services "