Single shotgun-rife project

Discussion in 'DIY Projects' started by jdsingleshot, Jan 24, 2014.

  1. jdsingleshot

    jdsingleshot Member

    57
    3
    8
    For years, I have wanted to mount a rifle barrel on my 1893 Remington single-barrel receiver. (You're not really going to expect me to have a reason, are you?) The plan includes a .401 bore barrel chambered for .38-40.

    I am thinking along two differing approaches, but both have me trying to figure a good/uncomplicated way to attach the locking lug block to the barrel or a block that the barrel would screw into.

    With that background, I'd like to hear some thoughts about how much and what sort of forces are applied to the lug/hinge block at ignition and immediately after.

    It seems to me, the only direct unbalanced forces on a barrel are the friction of the projectile in the bore and the recoil of the receiver yanking the barrel backward (because the barrel is connected to the receiver).

    Some old guns--such as my '93--have the lug silver soldered to the barrel. On more "modern" guns, such as a Stevens 107/Springfield 94, there is some way of attachment that is not obvious.

    I'd consider welding the lug/hinge block, but if I do, I will have to V out the weld area and then mill or grind away any build up.

    Ideas please?
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2014
  2. BillM

    BillM Active Member Supporter

    1,147
    1
    38
    .410 for a 38-40? Did you mean .401?
     

  3. jdsingleshot

    jdsingleshot Member

    57
    3
    8
    Yep. Sorry. Fixed it.
     
  4. Misneac

    Misneac New Member

    6
    0
    0
    Or instead, buy a Savage model 24. They got all kinds of versions and with the money you save you can go to MC Ace and have them make you some custom barrel adaptors. Just a thought.
     
  5. hiwall

    hiwall Well-Known Member

    4,281
    46
    48
    The 38/40 is obviously a very mild round. I doubt you would have a problem.
     
  6. jdsingleshot

    jdsingleshot Member

    57
    3
    8
    Guess I'm missing something. How will I save money by buying something when I already have the barrel and the shotgun, would do the gunsmithing myself and will make the chamber reamer? I would certainly save time, but I'm retired and have time to spare.

    Also, my longtime interest in this has been in the making, not in the having.

    One drawback is that from this perspective in life, I do realize that this kind of project is only a distraction from things that matter. So maybe my remaining interest will completely dissipate before I really get started...
     
  7. sgthooah04

    sgthooah04 New Member

    62
    0
    0
    High strength silver solder should be more then strong enough for what your.thinking if in reading it right. With welding you run a very high chance of damaging any heat treatment the metal may have. Silver solder you dont. I know most parts on old hinged shotguns were. Silver soldered I'm not 100% sure the breach blocks were. If they can take a 12 or 10 gauge then I'm guessing it will stand up to a .38-40. Check with a good Smith to be exactly sure.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Firearms Talk mobile app
     
  8. jdsingleshot

    jdsingleshot Member

    57
    3
    8
    Yes, the breach locking block on the Remington is silver soldered to the barrel. As far as welding changing the heat treatment, two ideas are at work. First, barrels are not hardened. Second, I would probably cut a slice off the end of the barrel and experiment welding that to see about warping. I would also see if that slice could be hardened by heating and quenching, which would tell me what might happen by the barrel mass sucking the heat out of a welded area.

    I guess I'm leaning toward welding because I don't have the torch I would need to silver solder that much mass.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2014
  9. Misneac

    Misneac New Member

    6
    0
    0
    Well I already got ripped on once here for putting in my two cents, but if you weld you can heat the whole mass with that torch no? Or another thought would be to to compare the existing barrel to what's already out there in comparable callers and with a little grinding get it to fit. I do think Winchester made a single shot 38-40 since I've seen replicas, but I forget the action style... Might be worth a loom tho.
     
  10. hiwall

    hiwall Well-Known Member

    4,281
    46
    48
    I did something similar a while back. I had most of an old Stevens action and I fitted a 22 barrel on it. With no recoil to worry about with the 22 round I just screwed the lug to the bottom of the barrel. I did have to move the firing pin of course because the 22 was a rimfire. Here is a pic of the mostly finished project. The stock and forearm came from and old Stevens bolt action 22 (one-piece stock) which I cut in half and fitted to the frame.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. jdsingleshot

    jdsingleshot Member

    57
    3
    8
    hiwall, thanks for the post. Is the large cylindrical section under the scope an integral part of the original diameter of the barrel?

    I had thought of turning a sleeve the size of the original shotgun barrel, welding a lug to that, and then threading the sleave and barrel so the rifle barrel would screw into the sleave.

    Any thoughts on that approach?

    Jim
     
  12. hiwall

    hiwall Well-Known Member

    4,281
    46
    48
    the large cylindrical section is just a sleeve I made. This was only a 22 so I Acraglassed the sleeve to the barrel (which I had turned to get rid of the taper). In the past I have installed many barrel liners in 22's which I always installed with Acraglass so I knew it would work for this. Your idea of threading on the sleeve is a good choice for a larger caliber. The Remington single shot action is kinda an interesting one. I am looking forward to more posts on your progress. Sounds like you have things figured out pretty well. Welding the lug to the sleeve would mean no heat stress to the barrel(a good idea!). Should be an easy weld job(why didn't I think of that?).