Sig Snag...

Discussion in '1911 Forum' started by KMO, Sep 29, 2012.

  1. KMO

    KMO Member

    I have the Sig Ultra 1911 with the 3-inch bull barrel (no barrel bushing). I installed the Clark sear spring and also a new slide stop because the slide was not locking back on the final round. I took it out for a test, and used 10 different mags, and the slide locked back every single time (over 100 rounds). Out of all those rounds, twice the pistol failed. The hammer was back, but the trigger would not release it. A round was in the chamber. Both times, a quick rack of the slide ejected the live round and loaded another, and both times it fired the follow-up round. And, both times the follow-up round was the final round in the magazine. This is a minor mystery. Thoughts?
  2. Flint Rock

    Flint Rock New Member

    I have two Sig GS's. I have tried changing parts out with Wilson Combat and Ed Brown parts. I wanted to change a thumb safety here, install a magwell there. Little thimgs. Well, my Sig's always refused to work properly anytime I changed a part out for an aftermarket part. The parts always look the same and measure out the same, but the gun wouldn't work. Now I'm no formally trained gunsmith, but I have built and rebuilt my 1911's for a long time. Now I just leave well enough alone with my Sig's!

  3. KMO

    KMO Member

    There is merit in your point. My dad always said, "Keep it stock, the way it was designed." Of course, he was talking about my tendency to modify my vehicles. In the case of my Sig, the failure I described in the OP was actually much worse before I installed the Clark sear spring. I have the same spring in my Sig C3 1911, and it has been flawless. My local friend suggests removing the sear spring & polish it, just in case there are small burrs. Other ideas?
  4. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

    How many rounds do you have through the firearm totally?

    I would not start polishing yet. I would look at other parts. Disconnector or the sear. If the sear spring needed to be worked on, then what got the hammer to stay back? The sear spring seems to be doing its job correctly. The sear seems to be working correctly. That leaves the disconnector (a part that seldom get replaced, but should as it wears down). The trigger pushes on the disconnector to push the sear off the hammer.

    Get a new disconnector first (inexpensive) and see if that works.
  5. Thebiker

    Thebiker Member

    I just acquired a new Sig 1911 Carry in stainless. It is not as smooth as my STI, the trigger isn't as silky as my STI and I prefer different grips than the stock.

    However, words of wisdom from Canebrake: shoot it, clean it & repeat (summarized quote). I changed the grip only because it suits my hand (and looks better:cool:). Beyond that I'm just going to shoot the snot out of it.

    Personally, I won't CC a pistol until I have a minimum of 500 rounds through it because trust must be earned, especially by something that I carry to prevent me or mine from being hurt/killed.

    After you have at least 500 round downrange, then think about making functional changes. JMHO