Sig 716 Reloads not Chambering

Discussion in 'Auto & Semi-Auto Discussion' started by Brad_CCW, Apr 18, 2014.

  1. Brad_CCW

    Brad_CCW New Member

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    So I did my first batch of reloads and I noticed they weren't chambering fully. The bolt was stopping 1/4" early for most of the rounds. Some seemed to fully chamber. Also most of the rounds were getting jammed in the chamber so that I had to tap on the charging handle with a 2x4 to extract them. So I ordered some head space gauges. When I put the rounds in the headspace gauge, most of them seem to be flush with the top of the gauge. At most they are off by .002". I tried to caliper it but it's hard to get the angle right.

    My dies touch the shell plate when I'm resizing. Besides I'm shooting from the same gun so I shouldn't have to do a full length resize, or does that just go for bolt action? I ordered a set or Hornady dies since I'm using a Hornady press. I was using RCBS dies. At this point I'm not even sure where to look for the problem since the headspace gauge isn't showing me any problems.

    UPDATE: Also I just tried some spent brass and it seems to chamber just fine without sizing.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2014
  2. Eagle1803

    Eagle1803 New Member

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    Alot of times, once fired brass will not have to be trimed and resized, the neck doesn't stretch enough after the first fire, at least that how it is on 5.56. .002 is enough to mess stuff up in some guns, that rd should drop down in that gauge and be flush.

    Check your OAL also, that can cause jamming.
     

  3. Brad_CCW

    Brad_CCW New Member

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    Ya, I just sized and primed some empties and they still chamber just fine. Only thing left is OAL it seems but this is the first thing I tried. Guess I need to try again.
     
  4. Eagle1803

    Eagle1803 New Member

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    Are you using single stage or a progressive?
     
  5. Brad_CCW

    Brad_CCW New Member

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    I'm using a progressive press. I think I just figured out most of my problem. I had the seating die set too far down so that it was distorting the brass. I did about 8 rounds and only one didn't chamber all the way. I might need to tweak it just a bit more.
     
  6. Eagle1803

    Eagle1803 New Member

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    Yeah, I Have a Xl-650 dillon, been doing it for about 2yrs now. It takes some tinkering and careful adjustment to get them where you want them. if it was hitting your shell plate that can throw your powder drop off also.

    I have covers and stands with my different Cals in each block so I can just switch them out, then my adjustment is pretty much there.
     
  7. Brad_CCW

    Brad_CCW New Member

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    No I make sure my press is all the way up before I adjust the dies to touch the plate. So the powder drop is fine.

    I just did a few more rounds. I shortened the OAL. I have one round now that looks perfect in the headspace gauge but will not chamber. Also the OAL is shorter than some of the rounds that do chamber just fine.

    I tried adjusting the seating die in both directions and it doesn't seem to be helping much. The only thing I can figure is the edge of the brass is getting caught in the chamber, but this doesn't seem to be the case. It looks fine in the headspace gauge.

    UPDATE: I set my sizing die 1/4 turn PAST touching the plate and this batch seemed the best so far.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2014
  8. anm2_man

    anm2_man Member

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    1/4 past after it touches is the normal way to set a sizing die.
     
  9. Brad_CCW

    Brad_CCW New Member

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    Ya, I've been loading handgun rounds until now. They are a little more forgiving.

    It's still confusing how the empty brass would chamber just fine until I seated the bullet.
     
  10. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    Brass fired in a semi auto must be full length sized you cant safely neck size only with semi autos.

    Gage your cases after sizing and after removing case lube. ANY case lube will case false sizing info. Inside of the gage must be cleaned of oils before use. Relube your gages when done to prevent corrosion. I keep mine in little plastic parts boxes lubed then i use degreaser to remove oil before use.

    Start with the shell plate empty and fully raised. Screw in die until it touches the plate and back it off 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Gage clean cases until you find one that is long and lube it. Run it through the die and then gage. Screw down the die a scootch ata time until it gages correctly. Check cases frequently before and after sizing.

    Once you get a feel for this you wont need to use the gage as much.
     
  11. Brad_CCW

    Brad_CCW New Member

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    As stated, I had to screw to touching the plate then TIGHTEN down a quarter turn, not back off. This seems standard for sizing dies. I guess I missed this in the manual.

    The seating die on the other hand, you have to touch the casing of a factory loaded round then BACK OFF a full turn. All of this was in the die manual. I guess I just got too comfortable since my pistol dies were working so well.

    I finally got to shoot my .308 reloads in my rifle today. About 40 rounds functioned flawlessly, even with the FSC30 muzzle brake that I had some concerns about. I don't have a chronograph but they "felt" about the same as factory ammo. Accuracy was pretty good. I didn't have a very good bench rest so my groups were acceptable at about 4". I need a better bench rest to see how accurate they really are.
     
  12. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    Progressive machines and multi stage machines are different than single stage. You dont want to start touching the plates or more. That can easily cause too much setback. In the case of carbide dies it can crack the carbide insert
     
  13. Brad_CCW

    Brad_CCW New Member

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    That's what I was expecting but the RCBS dies I was using recommend that as a starting point. Also the 3031 powder I was using seemed to shoot well. I noticed a little muzzle flash inside the compensator but none seemed to extend past the compensator.