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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new to 1911. I'll be picking up my Colt Defender 9mm this thursday at my LGS. It's on transit as we speak. This will be my first Colt 1911. Not sure if Defender falls into 1911 or not :).
My question, what internal or external parts should i upgrade? I was reading on some forums, people like Wilson Combat internal parts. Are they worthy? Are the parts will make it better? If i were going to buy additional mags, should i get Colt mags or Wilson's mags? The gun will not be my EDC for sure.
So please feed me with your wealthy 1911 knowledges. Thank you.
 

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I would shoot it. If it works as designed I would leave it alone. I bought my SA 1911 in 1994 and I have shot the dickens out of it. It still has all of the original parts, including magazines, and it works perfectly.
 

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I agree with Chainfire.
If you shoot the thing "Like you're tryin' to break it", You will identify what parts need to be replaced.
Then should it need something during the break in period, the company cannot blame you for messin' with it.
 

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Wud you buy a new car & put a new engine & transmission in it?
Shoot the thing ;)
 

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That being said if you do get after market parts from wilson, go with their Bullet Proof parts. Otherwise you will be getting the same stuff thats on your gun thats casted. Wilsons Bullet Proof and Ed Browns Hardcore line of parts are forged and machined. So it will hold up longer than parts that are casted. But as the others previously stated, unless you are trying to break your 1911 by shooting, you wont really notice the difference
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thx for the inputs guys. I guess i'll just stick with the stock parts for the time being. Till i fully learn how to completely field strip it.
 

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One other issue in swapping parts is that many parts need to be expertly fitted to function properly. It is not always just dropping in "drop in" parts.
 

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the baby 1911's defender/newagent arent meant to be target guns :) they are ccw guns. means carry a lot shot a little. nothing wrong with the colt internals. if you plan on running a lot of ammo first thing is new recoil springs to keep in reserve. the recoil springs on small 1911 style pocket guns regardless of maker need to be replaced every 500-700 rounds. not replacing those is what leads the interweb wizards of smart to think the internals are junk.

its like running your car for 25,000 miles never changing the oil and blame the engine for being junk when it implodes.
 

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...the recoil springs on small 1911 style pocket guns regardless of maker need to be replaced every 500-700 rounds. not replacing those is what leads the interweb wizards of smart to think the internals are junk.

its like running your car for 25,000 miles never changing the oil and blame the engine for being junk when it implodes.
Come on 500-700, don't ya think that's a little exaggerated? Any gun manufactured that needs a changing of parts that quickly should be considered junk.

As for the car analogy, not a little exaggerated, but extremely so, and invalid. Both are mechanical pieces of equip thus oil in car is like oil in gun. Springs in gun is nothing similar to any mechanical part of engine, but like Springs and/or shocks/struts. Literally a straight comparison.

Man The things people will say. I swear logic is nonexistent online. No offense Jon, I know you're knowledgable and all, moreso than I about guns, but that does not equate to overall intelligence or rational thought. None of this follows such a train.

Then again, I've said more than my fair share of stupid things online and on this forum. Lol I can admit it! Haahahaha
 

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When I went and looked at 1911's I to was worried about sub-par parts used in compromise,like MIM and the like.

But im not familiar enough with the 1911 to trust myself to replacing a bunch of parts on my first ons.

So I bought a Dan Wesson VBOB, all bar stock/tool steel internals. Problem solved.
 

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Come on 500-700, don't ya think that's a little exaggerated? Any gun manufactured that needs a changing of parts that quickly should be considered junk.

As for the car analogy, not a little exaggerated, but extremely so, and invalid. Both are mechanical pieces of equip thus oil in car is like oil in gun. Springs in gun is nothing similar to any mechanical part of engine, but like Springs and/or shocks/struts. Literally a straight comparison.

Man The things people will say. I swear logic is nonexistent online. No offense Jon, I know you're knowledgable and all, moreso than I about guns, but that does not equate to overall intelligence or rational thought. None of this follows such a train.

Then again, I've said more than my fair share of stupid things online and on this forum. Lol I can admit it! Haahahaha
these are the experts on gun springs. they arent out to screw anyone over.

http://www.gunsprings.com/faq

Wolff springs are made with the highest grade materials and workmanship. Most Wolff [recoil] springs will remain stable for many thousands of rounds. Some recoil springs in compact pistols, especially where dual springs are used or are replaced by a single spring may require changing after 500 - 1500 rounds. Springs that become rusty, bent or otherwise damaged should always be replaced. Again, changes you observe in your firearm's performance are the best indicators that a change is needed.
 

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When I went and looked at 1911's I to was worried about sub-par parts used in compromise,like MIM and the like.

But im not familiar enough with the 1911 to trust myself to replacing a bunch of parts on my first ons.

So I bought a Dan Wesson VBOB, all bar stock/tool steel internals. Problem solved.
just a small note on mim parts. mim can be stronger than billet parts if done correctly. colt doesnt use mim on internals that are under wear and stress. you only find mim on colt 1911 on non critical things like sights, mag release buttons, grip screw inserts etc
 

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JonM said:
just a small note on mim parts. mim can be stronger than billet parts if done correctly. colt doesnt use mim on internals that are under wear and stress. you only find mim on colt 1911 on non critical things like sights, mag release buttons, grip screw inserts etc
I know it CAN be done to be real strong nowadays,but nobody i asked had any convincing information on who DOES make it right and who to avoid. So I personally opted to squeeze the wallet a little tighter,save a little longer... And buy something that I don't have any doubts about,no matter how small or unwarranted. Maybe I just paid for piece of mind... But I don't have buyers remorse yet,and I've never spent that much money on anything besides a truck before.
 

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I posted a thread a while ago asking people to post pictures of broken MIM parts from firearms.

No pictures have been posted yet.

(The cam in your car was made by MIM, has it broke yet?)
 

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these are the experts on gun springs. they arent out to screw anyone over.

http://www.gunsprings.com/faq
It's all about key functioning words.

Excerpts:

- most wolff springs should last several thousands of rounds.

- some wolff springs, such as a dual spring system, used in compact pistols may need replacing 500-1500.

Operative words here... most! Then some and may.

From there it takes a linguistic understanding or lawyers mind to comprehend that what they're saying... which is that very few guns require changing of Springs more than several thousands of rounds. Those that MIGHT are typically compact and utilize a dual spring system. I could be wrong, but I highly doubt it. Just my thought.
 

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personally, my recommendation is shoot it the way it came out of the box. shoot the snot out of it. worry about replacing only when something starts to become a problem.

if it ain't broke, then don't fix it. now there's nothing wrong with customizing it to suit your needs, such as thinner grips, longer thumb safety, ect., ect.,,,but the internals i would leave alone unless there was a problem.

just recently i customized my AC Commander, and did quite a bit of work to it, but all the internals are still the factory parts and some are even the MIM type parts. they will not be replaced until i have some sort of problem with them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yes thank you guys for the inputs. I will leave the internals alone. Most probably i'd change the grips.
Anyone knows links or videos of fully assembly or deassembly the defender?
 

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Yes thank you guys for the inputs. I will leave the internals alone. Most probably i'd change the grips.
Anyone knows links or videos of fully assembly or deassembly the defender?
Have your LGS show you how to take it apart. (and put it back together)
 
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