Should I re-blue?

Discussion in '1911 Forum' started by fa35jsf, Sep 12, 2013.

  1. fa35jsf

    fa35jsf New Member

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    I carry a 1911 on a regular basis and that has caused some wear to start showing on the bluing. Now just general holster wear is not that important to me, however I also have wear around the grips because I shoot this gun at the range a lot too.

    When I pull the gun out to put it away at night after carrying all day, usually it has a layer of sweat. I always wipe that off right away. But every now and then I see some spots of surface rust on the left grips from the sweat. Of course I immediately take it to my desk and clean it but I am noticing those spots are appearing over areas of light bluing.

    So the question is, should I have it re-blued of adopt a more regular cleaning and oiling process? Would I send it back to the manufacturer or find a good gunsmith?
     
  2. mountainman13

    mountainman13 New Member

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    Soak it in Clp overnight. Getting it reblued is up to you. Personally if I were going to spend the money I'd look into parkerizing.
     

  3. fa35jsf

    fa35jsf New Member

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    It's not all that bad. Some CLP removes most of it and that with a fine brash brush removes the rest. As far as parkerizing goes, I really want to keep it as original as possible since it is my first 1911. Maybe in a few years I can afford a officer model with features better suited to carrying.
     
  4. c3shooter

    c3shooter Administrator Staff Member

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    I have carry guns that I have had reblued when they start to show their age. Hey- they are not collector's items, they are working guns.

    You best job is likely to be a factory reblue- but there ARE good smiths that can do a good polish and reblue. However, the challenge is making the distinction between a good smith, and a klutz with a power buffer.

    Me- I got a good smith. Now and again I go by the shop and feed him when I don't want anything. Good ones are hard to find. Trying to keep him healthy!
     
  5. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    I kinda like leaving it as is with a regular re-oiling. It shows the character of a good used 1911.

    But, it's yours.
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2013
  6. fa35jsf

    fa35jsf New Member

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    Yeah I just don't want any rust to settle in or constantly keep coming back. Maybe I should get some of them oil wipes and give it a good wiping each time I take it off.
     
  7. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    The other option is to Dura-Kote.
     
  8. hardluk1

    hardluk1 Active Member

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    If you will clp your pistol with the aid of heat , a hot light will do , the clp will and does soak into the surface of the metal. Yea it really does. I have used it for almost 40 years , hunted in swamps and rain with firearms seasoned with it and carried working in florida in my front pocket for years. Never had rust. Give very lite coat at night and after a while it just seems you can not wipe it dry anymore. Allways so clp left behind. Beside normal wear on a firearm just looks right. .
     
  9. fa35jsf

    fa35jsf New Member

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    I will give that a try hardluk.

    So danfl, what is " Dura-Kote"?
     
  10. Jagermeister

    Jagermeister New Member

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    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVtLbDMVwL8[/ame]
     
  11. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Last edited: Sep 13, 2013
  12. rock185

    rock185 Member

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    fa35, remember that sweat migrates to beneath the grips too. If you aren't removing the grips when you clean, and oiling beneath, you may get an unpleasant rusty surprise should you remove the grips one day. I suspect that if your gun is carried, blue thinning and rust spots developing, the gun is likely not a collectors item. In that case,were it mine, I would have it refinished in whatever finish I chose. Rebluing looks nice when properly done, but you'd have the same issues in short order. That is one of the reasons I prefer stainless in any gun I'm going to be carrying. I'm not a big fan of the painted type finishes, by whatever name. But, for sure, as long as the surface finish remains intact, your gun can't rust. I much prefer something like hard chrome or Robar's Np3...ymmv

    BTW, one humid, sweaty day during a long hot Phoenix summer, I was carrying a gun with a blued slide concealed against my sweaty self. It rusted the side next to me in that one day. I had foolishly used some kind of silicone super duper anti-rust cloth on the gun, rather than the WD-40 I'd been using to wipe down the exterior prior. WD-40 is certainly not a good lubricant for moving parts, but I never had a blued gun show any sign of rust when using it to wipe down the exterior.
     
  13. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Sweat is a form of H2O.

    WD-40 is the name of a Water Displacement formula - 40th attempt.
     
  14. fa35jsf

    fa35jsf New Member

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    I remove the grips and clean under there. I will look into different finishes and maybe have it redone at some point.
     
  15. bntyhntr6975

    bntyhntr6975 New Member

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    VCI products also work very well, ive never used CLP. I have a 70 series Colt Combat Commander that has quite abit of wear, and will surface rust overnight from even normal use without some protection. A good wipe down with VCI keeps the rust away for a couple weeks if its in use, months if its just sittin in the safe. One of these days, Im hoping to send it to Colt and have them re-blue it correctly. Granted, its not cheap, but Im sure itd be worth it.
     
  16. hardluk1

    hardluk1 Active Member

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    Whats vci?? Sounds like it stay on metal like clp.
     
  17. bntyhntr6975

    bntyhntr6975 New Member

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    Not sure just what it is. Dick's Sporting Goods carries it, and I think Midway does too. Perty good stuff is all I know.
     
  18. trip286

    trip286 New Member

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    Parkerizing is kinda like blueing in one way-it's an actual chemical reaction with the metal. It IS basically the metal itself in a different molecular makeup. I like the idea of this, because, as someone else mentioned, I don't care for painted on type finishes. Nothing wrong with them, and they've proven to be more durable than blue or parkerizing over and over... I just don't like the idea.

    Hey, one great thing about cerakote, duracoat, durakote, whatever... Just about any color you could want. Even do a duo tone if you want.

    Now, I stripped the parkerizing from my springfield milspec and cold blued it. I had a problem at first with very light rust popping up and having to be scrubbed off.

    I use heavy oil. I use a spray on lube called "Pen-a-lube", or 90 weight gear oil during cleaning, and a spray on "penetrating red grease" on reassembly. Haven't had the rust come back since. These two sprays are formulated to be a penetrating lubricant, with the "pen-a-lube" supposedly similar to C3's beloved Kroil.

    I have recently been looking into hard chrome. Don't know if I want to go that route. It's an expensive process if you go with a reputable smith (online I found rates of around $275 for the entire gun). But, upon examining the benefits, I really love the idea. And I think it looks sexy as hell too.
     
  19. gr8oldguy

    gr8oldguy New Member

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    Let it show it's wear. Gives it personality.
     
  20. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    i think you mentioned on another thread about buying another 1911. the MetroArms American Classic 1911's are offered in a hard chrome version. they are not that expensive either. very well made pistols and i am on my second one now.

    personally, to re-blue is a personal decision. i like the look of worn pistols as much as finely blued ones. the worn look show use and character.

    as Trip mentioned, parkerizing is another good alternative to bluing. IIRC, parkerizing is a little more resistant to rust than blueing.