Selecting a turkey choke

Discussion in 'Hunting Forum' started by therhino, Feb 23, 2012.

  1. therhino

    therhino New Member

    I'm gearing up for my first-ever spring turkey season. I own a Mossberg 500 in 20 gauge with a 26" barrel.
    I have been looking at various chokes on different websites (the local cabela's doesn't seem to carry turkey chokes in 20ga), and am really confused as to what is what.
    Right now I've just got a full choke in the barrel, and have been shooting target loads to get a feel for how the shotgun handles (first one I've owned). Obviously those won't take down a turkey (especially with #8 shot and a 12" spread).
    I know ammo selection goes by what your weapon likes to eat and the specific shoke you're using.
    However, are there some general guidelines on what to look for in a turkey choke? Ported versus non-ported? What types of shot cannot be fired through a ported choke? Any choke brands that are an absolute do-not-buy?
  2. Triumphman

    Triumphman Active Member

    Way to go on a nice Mossy. I got a little Remington 870 last year in 20ga to do Turkey hunting and other game bird hunts with. I have mine set up for around 30 to 35yds using #6 lead shot(gave tightest pattern) with a "Full Turkey" choke that will work with steel shot(no ports). Here in Missouri, steel shot isn't required where I hunt, but if I had to use steel, I'm all set to do so. If you do use steel shot, DO NOT get a choke with ports, as it will mangle the ported choke. I have (3) full chokes without any ports, from different manufacturer's because, each choke actually gives off different patterns on the target and you want the best, tightest pattern, for the shot size you'll be using. You want a choke that works with steel because a lot of Public Land or your State, might require hunters' nowadays to only go with steel shot. Just get a couple "Full" chokes(no ports) and test your pattern. If you find a choke that works with steel/lead, it's OK to use. If choke is etched "for lead only"---DO NOT USE STEEL SHOT in it as the metal is not hardened for it. If choke doesn't have any writing/etching on it, then recognize it as being--"for lead shot only". If you get choke with ports--"LEAD SHOT ONLY". Hope I answered your question(s). Almost forgot. I didn't get my Spring Tom, but I got a nice Fall Hen with my little Remmy.
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2012

  3. Buckethead47

    Buckethead47 New Member

    Last edited: Feb 24, 2012
  4. Gatoragn

    Gatoragn Active Member

    There is no magic chart, just takes trial and error to find the right choke for the ammo you shoot. I have had good results with Carlson and Hastings turkey chokes.

    BTW, #8 field loads could put down a gobbler if distance is not too far, say 25 yards or less.

    Most turkey loads are set up to pattern better than field loads, so your basic full choke is worth trying out.

    Read the label on the choke as to what type of shot can/cannot be used.
  5. hardluk1

    hardluk1 Active Member

    federal has there flite-control wad in a #4,5 and 6 shot that are designed for turkey. it would be worth while try'n acouple of them just to see what they do at 40yards. Then you can deside if changing chocks is with while.
  6. therhino

    therhino New Member

    Thanks all.
    I ended up ordering a Carlson's XFull Turkey choke from Cabela's online, along with a box of the Federal Flite Control turkey shells, a box of Winchester Supreme High-Velocity turkey shells, and a bunch of steeply-discounted camo items (hat, mask, gloves, etc). I need to bust out my old USMC camo and see if any of it still fits my fat self these days. If not, I'll pony up for new pants and jacket. I figure there's no reason to go big on expenditures before I know if I can hack turkey hunting.
    I'm planning to pattern the ammo out of both my standard Full and the Turkey chokes and see how it turns out.

    Anyone know if the 22" barrel from a Mossberg 500 Bantam will fit on the standard-sized Field model?