Rings and mounts they are normally last on the list when setting up your new shooter. Right, who want to drop $100+ on a set of Leupold or $200 on a set of badger ord rings. Rings come in more flavors than Baskin and Robbins ice cream. You have every thing from dove tail to picatinny to built in to detachable Return To Zero (RTZ) to quick release. We have Weaver, dovetail, picatinny, windage adjustable and many more. Everyone that has been on a interwebs message board has heard the saying "Spend as much on your scope as your rifle" I get sick of hearing it. To many get into firearms and hear that then wast tons of money on stuff they don't need. In mounts though I would say spend as much as you can afford. If you can afford a $150 set of Leupold quick release tactical rings then get them if they fit your application. For bolt guns I prefer a 1 piece mount. Weather it is a 1913 picatinny, duel dove tail or standard (Front dove tail rear windage). I think the 1 piece mount made by a quality manufacture like Leupold will help in mounting your scope. It also helps add a bit more rigidity to the action by adding a large hunk of metal on the top of the action. To lap or not to lap that is the question of the time. I myself think for an everyday hunting rifle your not going to see any performance increase by lapping the rings. I know there are some on here that say you HAVE to lap every set of rings every time. If you want to go for it I have not lapped a ring ever I end up with accurate rifles and no ring marks. If you chose to lap rings be careful that you do not remove too much material and make them to large to securely hold the scope. I have been in the gun store more than a few times with guys that lapped rings and ended up with 30mm rings for a 1" scope. I believe if you take care and take your time mounting the rings test fitting the scope along the way you can and will get a very good mount with out lapping. I use a 1" wooden dowel and some dry erase markers to mark the rings and see if they are rubbing adjusting them to make the marks even. Torquing rings. Sure anything like this should be torqued. Just like the heads on a car have to be torqued so should your rings. You can use the FAT wrench from midwayusa. If your cheap like me I do mine like this. On 1/2 split rings I slowly tighten all the rings till the gaps are even on each side if I have 2 or more screws per side I start at the front working in a cross pattern. I keep an eye on the gap making sure not to get them closer on one side or the other. To finish tightening I take the screw driver (I use Craftsman torx drivers) and hold it between my thumb and index finger and uniformly tighten till I can't tighten with that grip any more. Once you are there your set and ready to go Spend as much as you can afford on rings. There are plenty to choose from and the better they are the better you are.