Firearms Talk banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,247 Posts
Get a forward rail that replaces the hand guard and get a scout scope with quick release rings. Ultimak and Amiga make them. Prefer the Ultimak.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,978 Posts
These are a bit hard to find nowadays, but this is what I got for my 181. A bit funky, use lots of blue loctite, chin weld versus cheek weld, but one can use irons just by shifting from chin to cheek weld. Got mine from Amazon years ago - no longer available - but they can still be found. Various manufacturers. UTG made mine but no longer. No permanent mods necessary.

This one is similar, but note the back-order time.

Then there is this - essentially the same but in stock (and at twice the price):

Good luck!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
These are a bit hard to find nowadays, but this is what I got for my 181. A bit funky, use lots of blue loctite, chin weld versus cheek weld, but one can use irons just by shifting from chin to cheek weld. Got mine from Amazon years ago - no longer available - but they can still be found. Various manufacturers. UTG made mine but no longer. No permanent mods necessary.

This one is similar, but note the back-order time.

Then there is this - essentially the same but in stock (and at twice the price):

Good luck!
Looking at them, I do see they are a bit high...I went with the Ulitmax rail (which I had completely forgotten about)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,978 Posts
There are pros and cons with the UltiMak or Amega. While both are reversible, the funky side-mounted one worked for me and was pretty much all I knew about at the time, as it is very easy to remove and restore my 181 (my very first firearm) back to its original configuration - something important to me having done some things to my first car ('69 RoadRunner) that would be difficult to restore to its original out-of-factory condition.

The optimal solution, IMHO, is an UltiMak, but if you want the ease of choice of using either an optic or irons without removing the optic, this funky side-mounted solution is really the only option out there.

BTW, I have an UltiMak waiting to be mounted on my 583 Tactical...when I get around to it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,247 Posts
Font Rectangle Emblem Symbol Oval
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Thanks, I had completely forgot these guys existed...I have one coming! I would likewise cause you to notice the chance to save your time and simultaneously have an incredible cv that will be helpful to you throughout everyday life! for composing this, I go good writing service, click here for help - as I would like to think these are the best experts and qualified experts in the field of resume composing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
When I got my mini14 in the mid 80’s, there was two choices. The standard and the ranch rifle with the ranch rifle ejecting cases horizontally for use with a scope. Is this what you are trying to mimic? I don’t recall the model number on mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,978 Posts
There were two versions of the Mini-14 in the early-mid '80s: a standard Mini-14 and a Ranch Rifle. The standard had no provision for a scope (no "scallops"), the Ranch models did and the ejection patterns (and means) changed to accommodate a scope over the receiver.

All the side-mounted funky adapters were was to answer a demand for the standard Minis to be able to mount a scope. There was no need for the Ranch models as they came from the factory scope-ready.

As far as "mimicking", the side-mount for the standard models did nothing with the eject pattern but rather raised the height of the scope enough so that "most" of the ejects missed the scope: their eject pattern wasn't 100% vertical, but rather more like about 10-20% off vertical. Some ejects cleared, some didn't, but at least the mount usually kept ejects from hitting the scope (it served as a "protector/deflector").

One of the good things about that mount was one could switch from using a scope or irons just by switching from a "chin weld" to a "cheek weld". No need to remove an optic in order to use irons. It was also completely reversible so there were no other mods required to return your standard Mini to its original configuration. And simple to install. But if you don't use blue loctite on all screws, it WILL work loose. It makes the standard Mini a bit top-heavy with a scope because of the higher mount; not so bad with a red-dot...

This is a handy reference for the differences in models:
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top