[irata]

i have a couple questions regarding my tasco mag39x32sd model.

1. after ive sighted my scope in, how do i reset my wind/elevation screw back to MY zero? i see no hex key bolts around the wind/elevation mounting.

2. as per the manual and dial, to adjust left, one needs to click clockwise. when i click clockwise, my reticle shifts right. the direction is reversed for the elevation as well. the "L" and arrow do point in the correct direction as per the manual, but to reiterate, when i click towards what is shown as left with the arrow pointing to that direction, it moves the reticle to the right.


my scope is mounted properly from what i can understand, as the windage knob is facing the right and the elevation knob is on top of the scope and rifle.

 

[Ram Rod]

Everything is alright with your scope. Try to envision what you've just said for a moment. Reticle moves to the right.....your muzzle will move to the left to compensate. Take five minutes if you need to and get back to me on it. There might be some set screws on the turrets? If not, then get a set of Stoney Point knobs.

 

[h2oking]

Assuming when you say facing right you mean that looking from the back of the gun the windage nob is on the right? I think what is confusing you is that when you turn the windage nob toward R the cross hair moves to the left which is correct. The same goes for the elevation. I don't quite know how to explain to you but the R and L is bullet impact and not which way the cross hairs move. Think about it for a minute. Assume you are looking through your scope just after firing a shot and the bullet hole on the target is 2 inches to the right of the X ring where you were aiming. Now you go to adjust the scope you want the cross hair of the scope to match the impact point of the bullet so the cross hair has to go the right. The windage adjustment nob tells you if you want the impact of the bullet to move left you turn it toward L. This has to move the cross hair to the right in order match where the bullet impacted. Bottom line there is nothing wrong with your scope. Please let us know if this helped you or if you need some more explaination.

 

[AR Hammer]

And I though there were supposed to be 'Knowledgeable' people here on this forum...
---------------------------

If you are talking about the point of impact moving the wrong direction with the windage, that's a pretty common problem with those smaller, cheap scopes.
The indicator is backwards on the windage adjustment pretty often, so you just have to deal with it.

If you are 'Zeroed' in, and you want to 'Zero' your turrets so you can compensate for drop and windage in the optics, then go back to 'Zero' by reading the turret dials...

Some of the cheaper optics, there is NO provision for 'Zero' of the knob after you sight in...
(China hasn't ripped off an easy way to make it 'Zero' yet...)

Look for a silver center in the knob with two dimples in it.
If you find one, then you have a 'Friction Knob'
There is a 'Wrench' that holds the center section of the turret adjustment while you turn the outside knob with your fingers or another 'Wrench'.

If you don't find that, and there is no center section showing, the top of the turret knob is smooth,
Then you probably have a knob held on the turret adjustment screw by an 'O' ring under the knob.
They pull directly up and away, then you rotate to 'Zero' and push it back on the turret screw.

 

[irata]

Everything is alright with your scope. Try to envision what you've just said for a moment. Reticle moves to the right.....your muzzle will move to the left to compensate. Take five minutes if you need to and get back to me on it. There might be some set screws on the turrets? If not, then get a set of Stoney Point knobs.

i think im beginning to understand. im off to the range today and i'll get this engraved in my head. thanks!

btw, i belive i have set screws, they are dials that can be adjusted with a dime or coin.

 

[irata]

wow look at all these replies. thanks to everyone!!

ar hammer: ill try what you suggested about the knobs.

h2oking: starting to make complete sense now, once i put some on paper ill understand this 100%.

 

[Ram Rod]

And I though there were supposed to be 'Knowledgeable' people here on this forum...

Well, there will be now....I've got to get to bed.

 

[irata]

how would i set these to my new zero?

 

[Dillinger]

Well, there will be now....I've got to get to bed.

Ram - I wouldn't pay that guy too much attention. His whole purpose here is to convince everyone he is the smartest guy in the internetz and everyone else is an idiot. If you would like a laugh some time, check out this thread of wisdom.

how would i set these to my new zero?

Here is a link to instructions from Leupold concerning Coin Slot scope zeroing.

Here's the actual Tasco web based manual, but it doesn't appear to be a hell of a lot of help for you. Sorry Brother....

JD

 

[c3shooter]

Sir- there are some fairly high dollar scopes that you will change the settings while using it (as range changes) . Yours is not one of them. Typically the scope that has you set a zero that you change FROM will have more than 2 knobs, and is a target or varmint scope (very high magnification scope used to shoot at little bitty things very far away. Yours looks like a good utlity grade HUNTING scope- NOT a 26 power Varminter. Would suggest that you set your scope so that you are shooting where you want the bullet to be- for me, that is a couple of inches HIGH at 100 yds. Which, for hunting purposes for deer, will pretty much cover from 75 yds to 250 yds without radically changing my sight picture. After you have zero'ed your scope, put the caps back on, and leave it alone. On your rifle, the UP or LEFT markings indicate which way you want the strike of the bullet to move, which is opposite to the way the crosshairs move.

 

[irata]

c3shooter: thanks

dillinger: thanks for the links. the leupold one you rpovded brings me to a search field. would you have the link to that article still?

 

[Dillinger]

Sorry about that bro - Leupold apparently has a pretty good webmaster.

Here is the information, copied directly from Leupold:

How do I Zero the Windage and Elevation Dials After Sighting
Zeroing the Windage and Elevation Dials After Sighting In All Leupold scopes feature adjustment dials, either numbered or with an indicator, that can be repositioned to align the marked zero of the dial with the position indicator without changing the adjustment setting of the scope that was achieved when sighting in. This allows the shooter to know the original zero of the rifle in the event further adjustments are made in the field. To reposition the dials on Vari-X II and Fixed Power models, move the outermost dial so that the zero aligns with the stamped line indicator mark on the top of the adjustment screw that is perpendicular to the coin slot. Vari-X III models have a pointer dial that moves with the adjustment slot. This dial also can be moved independently to align with the zero on the outermost dial. To reposition this dial simply rotate it until the pointer is aligned with the zero. To reposition the dials on Target and Tactical models: 1. Loosen the set screws that surround the top of the knob until the cylinder turns freely. 2. Move the cylinder dial by hand to align the zero with the white perpendicular mark at the base of the cylinder. 3. Tighten the set screws until the cylinder is secure.

JD

 

[h2oking]

Irata: I think what you are trying to do, is sight your gun in and when your done you want to set the (marked) dial with the L and R back to zero without changing the adjustment. The picture you provided helps but I would rather have seen the marked dial face on instead of at an angle. Look very carefully at the dial and it should have a little slit in it and I mean little. This slit should go from the center to the outside edge of the dial. By putting something thin (finger nail) in the slit of the marked dial you should be able to turn the marked dial without turning the big coin slot. If there is not a slit then I am at a loss.

Dillinger must of been sending his post while I was typing mine. What he provided you was very correct (not that he needs me to codify him) except they are calling it a "slot".

 

[Dillinger]

Dillinger must of been sending his post while I was typing mine. What he provided you was very correct (not that he needs me to codify him) except they are calling it a "slot".

Thanks, but for the record, I got that from Leupold's website. I didn't write that, I just knew where to find it.

JD

 

[Ram Rod]

Ram - I wouldn't pay that guy too much attention. His whole purpose here is to convince everyone he is the smartest guy in the internetz and everyone else is an idiot. If you would like a laugh some time, check out this thread of wisdom.JD

Oh...I understand....but I really needed to go to bed. This is my work weekend. Thanks for the HU though.

 

[irata]

well it turns out i do have a slit, but it is extremely small and from what i've tried so far, the slit or the base is not moveable at all, only the coin dial.

the manual staes that the target and airgun scopes have an allen key slot to remove the bases. apparently mine, the .22 riflescope, dosent apply here. ill wait to see if anyone can add anything here, if not im going to return this scope.

i shoot with a .22lr but nevertheless, and i relaize its range isnt capable of the farthest but nevertheless, using a scope that dosent allow you to rezero the dials is like asking to shoot with no wind at the same distance every single trip to the range.

 

[irata]

[IMG

indent is on the right if you can see it

 

[1hole]

Properly labeled, the point of impact should move in the direction the arrows on the turrets indicate, no "interpretation" required.

In fact, with any sight, to move impact to the right, adjust the rear sight to the right, etc. Again, no interpretation needed.

 

[irata]

yep, i understand the clickage now.

i checked out a bushnell .22 riflescope today, the dials were the same. I dont think these scopes support rezeroing.

 

[h2oking]

Irata you are correct you cannot do what I thought you might be able to do. The new picture you sent does not show the slit/slot I was suggesting you might have. I will say one thing you have a good camera. I just thought of it dumb me, I am going to take a picture of one of mine and send it so hopefully you will see what I was refering too assuming my picture comes out good. You can see that the dial can be turned independent of the coin slot adjuster by the use of the slit. In this scope the slit is a bit bigger than most.

Ron