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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Calling all gunsmiths, amateur or otherwise:

I have a Savage 93R17 BV. If you know this model you know it comes with a pretty small bolt handle. So I had Savage send me the more robust part that comes on the TR model.

I knew that I was going to have to check the headspacing once I got the new handle affixed to the actual bolt but here's the issue I encountered:

I inserted the bolt, new handle and all. It cocks, I can dry fire but the handle doesn't fully seat downward. Not sure what the issue is, unless that's the headspacing that needs adjustment. It appears that aside from a larger knob the two handles, small and new tactical, are the same size.

Any advise/expertise/solutions?
 

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Calling all gunsmiths, amateur or otherwise:

I have a Savage 93R17 BV. If you know this model you know it comes with a pretty small bolt handle. So I had Savage send me the more robust part that comes on the TR model.

I knew that I was going to have to check the headspacing once I got the new handle affixed to the actual bolt but here's the issue I encountered:

I inserted the bolt, new handle and all. It cocks, I can dry fire but the handle doesn't fully seat downward. Not sure what the issue is, unless that's the headspacing that needs adjustment. It appears that aside from a larger knob the two handles, small and new tactical, are the same size.

Any advise/expertise/solutions?
Yea, don't dry fire a rimfire!! :eek: There are very few rimfires that you can safely dry fire.

But as far as your question, can you provide any pictures or possibly a more detailed explanation? It would help a lot if we could see it like you do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
thanks for the replies fellas. sorry for the delay. deadlines at the workhouse. anyway. take a look. the one on the right is the new handle attached to the bolt. obviously the one on the left was what got replaced. same thing, different knob. second pic shows how far down the handle will seat. the bolt is as far forward in the receiver as it'll go. that handle should be waaay farther down.
 

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BillyBourbon said:
thanks for the replies fellas. sorry for the delay. deadlines at the workhouse. anyway. take a look. the one on the right is the new handle attached to the bolt. obviously the one on the left was what got replaced. same thing, different knob. second pic shows how far down the handle will seat. the bolt is as far forward in the receiver as it'll go. that handle should be waaay farther down.
On the old one, is that threading or a spring?
 

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IIRC, on that rifle, as with most rimfires, there are no locking lugs on the bolt- lock is obtained from the section at the base of the bolt handle engaging the notch in the frame of the firearm.

If you have not changed the bolt, headspace would be unlikely to be changed, HOWEVER- a dimensional difference in the square section at the base of the bolt handle WILL affect lockup. If the new handle has a larger base, it will not engage the notch in the same way.

Take a mike and measure both new and old, see what you get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Aha! MICROMETER.
I have some precision calipers I use in cabinetmaking and finish carpentry. Gets down to the 100ths. So I'm measuring the length of the two handles to see if there's any minute discrepancies between the two?
I pride myself on my mechanical aptitude as a builder and carpenter. Rifles are a relatively new undertaking and gun smithing is a skill I'd like to take up so I can maintain and modify my toys myself. Obviously they're nothing to [email protected]~k around with so all the patient feedback is greatly appreciated. A gunsmith will be doing all the tinkering until I gain the confidence to do this stuff myself.
Thanks, folks.
 

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BillyBourbon said:
Aha! MICROMETER.
I have some precision calipers I use in cabinetmaking and finish carpentry. Gets down to the 100ths. So I'm measuring the length of the two handles to see if there's any minute discrepancies between the two?
I pride myself on my mechanical aptitude as a builder and carpenter. Rifles are a relatively new undertaking and gun smithing is a skill I'd like to take up so I can maintain and modify my toys myself. Obviously they're nothing to [email protected]~k around with so all the patient feedback is greatly appreciated. A gunsmith will be doing all the tinkering until I gain the confidence to do this stuff myself.
Thanks, folks.
Thats a good call to let the gunsmith check it out. Have him show you exactly what the problem was and how he fixed it.
 

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See the square section where the bolt handle joins the bolt? THAT is what locks up in bolt in battery (firing poisition) If the WIDTH of that flat section is different, will impact lockup. And yeah, sorry- micrometer. Or caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
@ chasnmich: the bolt handle costs me $65 including shipping from the factory. I took it to a local gunsmith and we figured it was just too much trouble to install it. The head space was off, which required some grinding and re-blueing. The finish on the tac assembly didn't totally match my action and barrel. so we opted for the same solution you're leaning toward. He cut off the knob, drilled the handle about an inch in, then sottered 5/16x24-thread pin that would take almost any aftermarket knob of my choosing. Turned out nice and cost me the same as the knob, not including the knob. I'll post a pic this afternoon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
here's how it turned out. you be the judge. i'm happy with it! aesthetically and very ergonomically pleasing. comfortable throw and much easier to cycle. that itty bitty knob it comes with is way too small. now i'm just waiting for an overdue stock i ordered a while back and this build is complete.
 

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