Savage 220 20 gauge disassembly

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing Forum' started by jdsingleshot, Feb 21, 2013.

  1. jdsingleshot

    jdsingleshot Member

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    My only NRA disassembly guide doesn't have the 220 or the 219, so, have any of you had a 220 apart? (This is the no *prefix, pre 1946 version.)


    I have the stock and barrel off and need to tear the action apart, but would like to do that in the best order and learn how to reassemble.

    The top snap will almost move enough to open the action and then gets impossible to move without breaking something--won't cock the firing pin.


    Thanks in advance.

    *Edit: Meant to say suffix above.


    Jim
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2013
  2. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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  3. jdsingleshot

    jdsingleshot Member

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    That is for the new 220--totally different animal, but thanks.
     
  4. jdsingleshot

    jdsingleshot Member

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    Well, as usual, the things I want to know, nobody else knows. I have the action totally disassembled and have reassembled several times. Despite what I had read, it's very easy. Much easier than the Stevens/Springfield 94s or the Savage 24.

    Now I need to replace the firing pin/striker. Some eager beaver ground the striker near the sear notch to the point that the notch is completely through the striker at one point. The striker shank at that point hangs up in the square hole in the bridge. Some people should not be allowed near tools of any kind.

    Numrich is out of stock for the striker. Anyone have a spare?

    Jim
     
  5. jdsingleshot

    jdsingleshot Member

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    Talking to myself here, but in case anyone was looking for a striker for me, I found one on eBay and bought it.
     
  6. twoolddogs

    twoolddogs New Member

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    Please cancel
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2013
  7. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Would you describe how you did it? I'm interested.
     
  8. jdsingleshot

    jdsingleshot Member

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    Sure.

    [​IMG]

    Since the gun would not break open, I removed the recoil pad, then the stock screw and buttstock. That let me get a look at the action parts.

    Not seeing how I could release the locking bar, I then drove the hinge pin clear of the barrel lug, from left to right. I had already removed the forestock and driving the hinge pin freed the barrel. (In reinstalling a hinge pin, always put a metal block between the sides of the receiver near the hinge pin hole to prevent springing that could misalign the pin or even permanently bend the receiver.)

    (I should note that in hind sight, I could have moved the locking lug. The striker was hanging up in the "bridge" through which it and the sear move. I could have just encouraged the striker to move while turning the top snap. The top snap arm would then have moved enough to move the locking bar.)

    With the action free, I badgered several gunsmiths who either had no experience with the 220 or spent 15 minutes telling me they didn't have time to talk about it. I suggest you skip this step.:)

    So, I removed the safety push rod spring, drove out the trigger pin (left to right), removed the rear trigger guard screw, swung the trigger guard aside and removed the trigger.

    Next I drove out the locking bar/sear pin, left to right.

    The "bridge" is made such that the bottom left and top right corners are relieved enough to allow the bottom of the bridge to be tapped (or even pushed) to the right, pivoting the bridge out of the slot. The bridge, sear, striker, safety push rod and main spring can then be maneuvered backward and to the right until they are free of the action. The locking bar and sear spring can then be dumped out.

    It was not necessary to remove the top snap or top snap arm, but I did.

    Some previous owner or butcher had ground the slope of the striker notch in an effort to make the striker slide through the bridge without catching. The striker notch had been cut completely through in the center of the channel section. In my opinion, that makes the gun unsafe, even if operable. That's why I went looking for a replacement striker.

    To reassemble, a couple of things make it easier/possible.

    As always, a tapered slave pin a couple of thousandths smaller than the locking bar pin makes replacement of that pin simple.

    The other helpful approach is to use a tool to compress the mainspring and a small pin to capture it. I made a tool from a piece of seamless tubing I dug from my scrap box. The inside diameter clears the striker and safety push rod. I cut a slot through it that let me install a piece of music wire in the capture hole when the spring is compressed. I think a 3/4 inch hardwood dowel might work if drilled and slotted appropriately.[​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    To reassemble, lay the action on its right side, barrel side to your left. Put the locking bar in place and manipulate it so that its upper arm is engaged in the hole in the right side of the top snap arm plate. Insert the slave pin through the left side of the receiver through only the left leg of the locking bar.

    Poke the sear spring into its seat in the back of the locking bar.

    Assemble the striker/safety push bar with compressed main spring into the bridge. Place the sear arm in position in the bridge. Then manipulate that whole assemblage into the receiver, inserting the firing pin in its hole first, then the bridge into its slot.

    Manipulate the free end of the sear spring so that it rides in the notch at the forward lower end of the sear. A small screwdriver works fairly well for this. Push the slave pin into the sear pivot that is now between the legs of the locking bar.

    Push the slave pin through the right wall of the receiver, then use the locking bar/sear pin to drive the slave pin back out and seat the locking bar pin in its proper position.

    Replace the trigger and safety push bar spring.

    Try the mechanism to ensure it works, but don't dry fire. You can put the barrel in place, load a dummy shell or blank and make sure the firing sequence and cocking actions work.

    If all is well, replace the stock parts.

    I have to say, I like the exposed hammer Savage/Stevens/Springfields a little better than this early version of the 220/219 because in these versions a broken striker would immediately result in an accidental discharge or at least a dry fire.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2013
  9. Txhillbilly

    Txhillbilly Active Member

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  10. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Very informative. Thanks!
     
  11. jdsingleshot

    jdsingleshot Member

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    Edited main post to include the sear spring in reassembly and remove the diagram legend, which was for a later version and none of the numbers applied.

    Jim
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2013
  12. fishdds

    fishdds New Member

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    Recently went through this process, and I would only add (in case anyone else needs to do this) that during reassembly, capturing the bridge piece along with the mainspring (I used a piece of paper clip) is the only way I could get the bridge/striker assembly in place in the action. Maybe this will help someone.
     
  13. jdsingleshot

    jdsingleshot Member

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    Replacing photos after pbucket welched

    Sorry these aren't with the earlier text, but at least they are back.
     

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