[VASH1456]

I've been using this little bottle of REMINGTON oil that I got from Walmart for $2 (not the spray can) and the oil is clear. Every time I use it a short time later (2 to 3 hours later) I'll notice the oil has evaporated. I was wondering if its safe to use 3-IN-ONE OIL or SUPER TECH LUBRICANT on my saiga?

 

[therewolf]

I've had the best success on Combloc semis with ATF.

Keeps them running, it's cheap, cleans while it lubricates.

It just seems to work well with the very simple design's

field strip paradigm. Brush on internal parts generously, allow to

soak in. Wipe off soot. Re-apply sparingly. Clean up

drips, re-assemble. Use before and after every barrel cleaning.

Unbelievable time saver...

For external metal, try Mobil 1...

 

[pennhead]

Is the Super Tech the Walmart store brand equivalent of WD40? If so, I would avoid using it as a lubricant.

WD40 is a solvent, and will damage rubber. Good thing there's no rubber in an AK, eh? I learned not to use WD40 on drive chains or pellet rifles. On O-Ring chain, it will damage and eventually get past the o-ring, where it will dissolve the lubricant inside the chain and leave it dry, ruining the chain. On pellet rifles, it will damage seals, eventually causing a leak.

WD40 will displace water very effectively, and then dry leaving a clean surface prepped for lubricant. By itself it is not a terribly effective lubricant, and will instead remove beneficial lubricants in your gun. If you use it to clean, make certain to replace the lubricant that it removed from critical areas.

I don't have an opinion on the 3-in-1, other than I imagine it's too light to provide much benefit. It's made for sewing machines and similar delicate machinery.

 

[kycol]

3in1has served me well for over 30 years

 

[MikeJK]

If it's evaporating it's probably not the best idea because it's obviously not right for this application.

Try some of the EWL products. I've been using a high temp multi purpose grease. It makes my stuff smooth as hell. I've heard the same about Frog Lube.

 

[Shoobee]

I agree with 3-in-1 for the trigger housing group (that's M-14 talk for whatever you call your trigger assembly).

For metal on metal I prefer silicone grease however, because it sticks longer.

 

[MikeJK]

Yep stick w/ old tech because ingenuity ceased years ago (that's real talk for whatever you call real talk).

 

[SSCRS]

I really only use white lithium grease on my AK's , with a drop or 2 of Slip 2000 on the bolt ( stuff I use on my pistols and lever guns mainly ).

Really dont over think lubrication on AK's. ATF, motor oil, clp. They all work fine.

 

[VASH1456]

Thank you everyone for your info.

 

[Argyle_Armoring]

CLP. Learn it, live it, LOVE it!

 

[Overkill0084]

If it slides. grease it. If it rotates, oil it.
I've used PJ1 chain lube or Tetra Gun Grease for sliding bits. I've pretty much gone to synthetic motor oil for rotating things.

The 3 in 1 is probably fine, but the really light spray stuff is probably best left to fixing door squeaks.
CLP is a compromise. IMHO, it's only middle of the road as a cleaner & it's a bit light as a lubricant. And as a slide lube, well again, too light.

Bear in mind, everyone has their preferences, this just happens to be mine. For your reading entertainment:
http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f35/gun-cleaning-input-48564/

 

[MikeJK]

You are correct. CLP burns off way to fast.

 

[St8LineGunsmith]

3 in 1, Hoppes gun oil or mobil 1 motor oil and Hoppes gun grease for lubrication I have also been known to use vaseline petroleum jelly as a grease in a pinch).
WD 40 and Hoppes#9 solvent and carb cleaner for cleaning, brake fluid works good for penetrating rust.

 

[therewolf]

Be really careful with

brush cleaner, brake fluids, and carburetor cleaners, because one

second of carelessness can mean a lifetime regretting a

ruined gun finish, discolored stock, or even melted plastic parts,

in some cases.

Q-tips, toothpicks, and long screws are great for manipulating

small amounts of dangerous solvents in tight areas.

 

[St8LineGunsmith]

maybe I should have mentioned that i only use carburetor cleaner and brake fluid on metal parts.

 

[lilbailnick]

Any one use M-Pro7? Or have an opinion on it. it's been my choice since I came to know of it. Works well and stays lubricated through many a rounds at the range

 

[JonM]

i use clp for general cleaning and storage. mobile 1 synthetic right before a range session. clp alone goes poof soon as you get a little heat in the gun. most gun oils are just a very lightgrade machine oil like 3in1. great for sewing machines poor for firearms. reason being is it breaksdown and pretty much goes poof with a little heat.

if your shooting a round or two then letting it cool no biggee anything will work. if you run it hard and hot you need something that withstands thermal breakdown

 

[St8LineGunsmith]

+1 on the mobil 1 synthetic before a range session.
white lithum is another good lube that don't go poof after the first few trigger pulls works good on slide rail on bolts

 

[lilbailnick]

i use clp for general cleaning and storage. mobile 1 synthetic right before a range session. clp alone goes poof soon as you get a little heat in the gun. most gun oils are just a very lightgrade machine oil like 3in1. great for sewing machines poor for firearms. reason being is it breaksdown and pretty much goes poof with a little heat.

if your shooting a round or two then letting it cool no biggee anything will work. if you run it hard and hot you need something that withstands thermal breakdown

Any particular Mobil 1 aside from synthetic blend.? I'm mean 10w or 5w what? Or is just Mobil1 synthetic any blend will do? Thanks

 

[JonM]

Any particular Mobil 1 aside from synthetic blend.? I'm mean 10w or 5w what? Or is just Mobil1 synthetic any blend will do? Thanks

im using 5w atm. lighter the better as any synthetic will do wonders better than any gun oil for a heat resistant lubricant.

i just dip a finger in the oil and wipe it on the bolt group