S&W Trigger Too Light

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing Forum' started by dnthmn2004, May 20, 2011.

  1. dnthmn2004

    dnthmn2004 New Member

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    When I got my S&W 15, the trigger was perfect - crisp, clean, consistant 3-4lb pull. I took it apart completely except for any roll pins/tension pins. Back together now and the trigger is waaaay too light. I can barely touch it before it fires. I can even push on the hammer to make it fire.
    I'm 100% positive I did not misplace any part, however could I have put it back together wrong?
    It almost looks like there isn't enough metal left on the hammer/trigger release.
    I don't want to take it to a smith because I only paid $70 for it.



    Help.:confused:
     

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  2. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    It looks like your trigger "lever" is not catching low enough. It seems to me that the trigger should catch into the 90° angle on the hammer when the hammer is cocked in single action.

    But that is only my opinion. Good Luck.
     

  3. dnthmn2004

    dnthmn2004 New Member

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    It almost looks rounded down from firing a bazillion rounds through its service days. Is this common? Do I need a new hammer and/or trigger?
     
  4. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Cylinder lock does not look correct. That should be held in place by the trigger when the hammer is fully cocked. That could be why the trigger is not seating correctly.

    The cylinder lock should have the "nose" of the trigger in it, not under it.

    Again, that is only my opinion, but that is how I reassembled my S&W.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2011
  5. dnthmn2004

    dnthmn2004 New Member

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    So I assembled it wrong :eek:. I guess I'll try it again following your suggestion. Thank you.

    Edit: further inspection/tinkering - it almost seems as there is too much pressure on the trigger when cocked back. When I pull the trigger, it pushes my finger forward instead of following through. I tried adjusting the leaf spring, but it only makes the problem worse.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2011
  6. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Imagine the cocked hammer and how the trigger fits as shown in picture #2.

    Now, take the trigger and turn approx 10 degrees counter clock wise. The front part of the trigger will fall into the cylinder lock area.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2011
  7. stalkingbear

    stalkingbear Well-Known Member

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    It sounds like you maybe assembled it wrong but I can't tell what it is from the pics. Is the trigger seated fully down on it's stud?
     
  8. dnthmn2004

    dnthmn2004 New Member

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    Hope this helps.
     

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  9. dnthmn2004

    dnthmn2004 New Member

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    Everything is 100% seated.
     
  10. stalkingbear

    stalkingbear Well-Known Member

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    It looks from the pic from what I can see that everything is assembled properly. I'd look hard at the single action notch on the trigger spur. Is the spring spur inside the trigger rebound spring?
     
  11. dnthmn2004

    dnthmn2004 New Member

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    This is how I'm putting the spring back.

    Also, it looks like the spur is kind of worn down? I don't know what a new one looks like :eek:
     

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  12. M14sRock

    M14sRock Active Member

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    Your single action notch looks good on the hammer. How does the corresponding sear on the trigger look?

    I was expecting to see an old PoPo trade in that had been "neutered" for duty, and re-converted after being surplussed off, but this one does not look like it has been neutered.

    Is there any debris inside the rebound slide?

    It is not clear to me, but are you saying that when you fire it single action that the trigger is pushed forward by the hammer falling? That is an indicator that someone replaced the springs with some that are too light, which is sort of the poor mans trigger job. The hammer is falling too slow.
     
  13. dnthmn2004

    dnthmn2004 New Member

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    I believe it is a police trade in.

    There is zero debris anywhere. I cleaned it very thoroughly.

    Yes, when I fire it single action the trigger is pushed forward. Should I start by buying a factory trigger rebound spring?
     

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  14. M14sRock

    M14sRock Active Member

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    Your pics are really good, thanks. That sear/trigger looks good, too.

    Replace the hammer spring and rebound slide spring with standard weights. If you want a better trigger, do it with polishing. Lightening springs is the poor man's trigger job.

    Ed McGivern could only fire his revolvers as fast as he could because he used factory weight, or heavier, springs.
     
  15. dnthmn2004

    dnthmn2004 New Member

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    Yeah, my EVO is a life saver. As soon as I take the picture I can email it to myself and get it in under 10 seconds.

    I will be ordering those springs then. Are these what your talking about? First item is what I want, second item is what I have? http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=SWspr Or should I go with these guys and get a Power Rib Shooters Pack for less.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2011
  16. M14sRock

    M14sRock Active Member

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    I love my EVO.

    Either of those spring kits will do. I'd get whichever one can be shipped fastest.
     
  17. dnthmn2004

    dnthmn2004 New Member

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    Big thanks to everyone! :D
     
  18. stalkingbear

    stalkingbear Well-Known Member

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    The trigger should NOT be pushed forward when the hammer falls. I still think you have a problem somewhere with assembly.
     
  19. jca1

    jca1 New Member

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    Something's off.

    The hammer did not push the trigger forward before you took it apart right?

    You put it back together and now the trigger is really lite and the hammer pushes the trigger forward.

    Is that correct?

    Can we get a pic of where the hammer spring engages the grip frame?
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2011