S&W model 10 date

Discussion in 'Revolver Handguns' started by woolu, Mar 26, 2009.

  1. woolu

    woolu New Member

    21
    0
    0
    can anyone tell me how old this is?38 s&w special CTG.numbers on the bottom of the grip are 462xxx. model 10.
    thanx
     
  2. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

    19,847
    3
    0
    If it says .38 Smith and Wesson on the barrel, it is not a .38 special. It takes a .38 Smith & Wesson cartridge. They're different. Be very careful.

    If you can post pictures, it would be helpful.
     

  3. robocop10mm

    robocop10mm Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

    11,380
    2
    0
    .38 Smith and Wesson Special IS ..38 Special. IF it is a model 10 it is not .38 S&W. Contact Smith and Wesson for a maufacturing date.
     
  4. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

    19,847
    3
    0
    Yeah, what you said Robo. Pics would be nice.
     
  5. woolu

    woolu New Member

    21
    0
    0
    I will post a pic when i get a chance,thanx.that is excactly what is stamped on the barrel.MOD-10 is stamped on the inside when i open the cylinder.it was a friends dads gun he was a constable and there was a half box of 38 special bullets with it when i purchased it.it has a four inch barrel
     
  6. 30-30remchester

    30-30remchester New Member

    459
    1
    0
    Things arent adding up. Is there a letter preceding the serial number? Why I ask is after WWII a letter preceeded the serial number and it wasnt until 1957 that Smith & Wesson gave their revolvers a model number.
     
  7. robocop10mm

    robocop10mm Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

    11,380
    2
    0
    Unless one of the X's deleted a "K"
     
  8. woolu

    woolu New Member

    21
    0
    0
    sorry,yes there is a C about 3/4" before the 462xxx
     
  9. woolu

    woolu New Member

    21
    0
    0
    here are some pics
     

    Attached Files:

  10. woolu

    woolu New Member

    21
    0
    0
    added pics

    i added pics any info would be appreciated.
    thanx
     
  11. Jesse17

    Jesse17 New Member

    1,471
    0
    0
    If it says Mod-10 on it, it's post '57

    S&W Model 10 - Lend Lease M&P.jpg
    Comparing the site on the above picture (of a WWII M&P) with the site on your gun, I'd say yours is at least as new as the late 1960's when they started the Mod 10-5.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2009
  12. woolu

    woolu New Member

    21
    0
    0
    thanx for the reply, i was wondering if someone was going to get back to me since i put up the pics.so can i just go to smith & wesson.com to do the serial number search?
     
  13. rugermike

    rugermike New Member

    112
    0
    0
    38 Special revolver, ONLY!

    This is a standard S&W "38 special" model 10 Police/Military , standard "K" frame revolver. This is NOT a shorter case, larger diameter casing and less effective S&W 38 caliber!!!
    I wish people selling these guns would give the buyers some education, On what they really have instead of just taking their money and laughing or hoping they can get out of the building quick enough they wo'nt find them. I'm sorry but my inter-self will not let me do that to anyone????:confused::confused::confused:
     
  14. 30-30remchester

    30-30remchester New Member

    459
    1
    0
    According to the " STANDARD CATALOG OF SMITH & WESSON" your revolver was manufactured in 1960. Hope this helps and if you have any other questions just ask.
     
  15. woolu

    woolu New Member

    21
    0
    0
    thanx again ,it does help.ive been told it was a 38special but that eirlier post made me alittle nervous.it locks the cyl./timing seems ok.i paid $60.00 plus the $25.00 transfer fee.its mostly for keeping unwanted animals/peaple out of my tent when i'm camping,any bullet suggestions?i've heard practice with regular 38 specials but i could keep it loaded with +p.
     
  16. WDB

    WDB New Member

    3,977
    3
    0
    Woolu,
    Already expressed but to confirm it is a 38 special model 10 mfg in 1960. The $85 you spent is a great price, it's worth $200+ depending on bore condition and if it's a lower rev level (model 10-1 is worth more than a 10-17 ect). S&W will do an apprasial/history if you want but I think they chrage $45 for it. Overal it's a good pistol and fine for your intended use. Enjoy and let us know if you have further questions.

    As for ammo I would use standard full metal jacket (FMJ) rounds staggered with jacketed hallow point (JHP) rounds. That way your covered no matter the threat. Also take some time and go shoot the pistol so you are comfrontable with how to operate it and how it fires. Enjoy
     
  17. robocop10mm

    robocop10mm Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

    11,380
    2
    0
    Remember the "official" name of the .38 Special cartridge is .38 Smith & Wesson Special. Not to be confused with the .38 Smith & Wesson.

    A 1960 S&W M-10 is not "rated" for +P ammo. This does not mean it will blow up if +P's are fired through it. A steady diet of +P's will cause some problems. End shake cylinder is the most common problem you will eventually see. Even this is easily correctable.

    If it was mine and I was in your situation, I would shoot standard pressure Specials and carry +P's. 125gr Gold Dot HP +P's would be my ammo of choice. FMJ's in revolvers are very anemic and do not penetrate as well as you mich expect. If you wanted a bullet for deep penetration go with a heavy (158gr or heavier) hard cast SWC or Wide Flat Nose in +P range.
     
  18. robocop10mm

    robocop10mm Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

    11,380
    2
    0
    On the topic of end shake cylinder, you can check yours for this condition by holding the unloaded revolver iin one hand and grasping the cylnder with the other hand. Try to move the cylinder back and forth. There should be the smallest, barely perceptable amount of movement. Any more and you are starting to have a "problem". You can also hold the gun up to the light and see how much gap there is between the cylinder and the barrel. You should see a sliver of light about the thickness of a piece of paper. No gap generally means you have excesive endshake.
     
  19. woolu

    woolu New Member

    21
    0
    0
    thanx for the info robocop.I'll check it out.
     
  20. rewersad

    rewersad Guest

    Hello World

    Hello World