Ruger american 5.56 sight in

That is still in the "Minute of Deer".
There are bullet drop apps for your phone you can get.

Try it at 500 yards and be surprised at the bullet drop.

danf_fl said:

That is still in the "Minute of Deer".
There are bullet drop apps for your phone you can get.

Try it at 500 yards and be surprised at the bullet drop.

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I understand but from one day to the next same distance changed by 2 inches which is what has me scratching my head.

crostiger said:

After sight in checked and re torqued everything a couple ring screws moved a tinny bit.

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Those screws could make a difference.

Ruger products and torque specs don't always go hand in hand. Torque value changes can create differing results.

M18
Yes there will be some differences on Action Screw in Inch Pounds of Torque.
I saw they state Action Screws 60 Lbs. to 80 Lbs. First of all 80 Lbs. is totally ridiculous.
The Action Screws on a Stock that is *not Glass bedded, or aluminum pillar bedded should not ever be torqued over 65 Lbs.
For Rifles that are Glass Bedded the Action Screws should be torqued at max of 37 - 40 Inch Lbs. Otherwise the Glass Bedding can be damaged. So, my Remington 40X Sniper Rifle's Action Screws are torqued to 37 Inch Lbs.
But as far as Torque of the Scope Base Plate/s onto the Receiver they should be torqued to the manufacturers Brand specification on the package.
And the Ring Bases should also be torqued to the manufactures Brand specification. Like Leupold, Weaver and other brands.
As I said, as for the Sope Cap Covers i torque mine to 22 Inch Lbs. As in the previous example.

03

Sniper03 said:

Danf
Simply an excellent presentation by Wheeler. I have a Wheeler Fat Wrench and it is one of the most important tools I have. Anyone who is mounting scopes, I encourage them to get one. And for anything they might have that requires Inch Pound torque specifications.
And yes, Crostiger any additional torquing made after the initial Zero will in all probability change things! All that must be properly done prior to Zeroing!

For example I mostly use Leupold Bases and Rings. Here is their recommendation regarding Scope Ring Caps.
The Torque Specification for the size on the Scope Tube Caps and the Screw Size that are used with each.
Leupold Scope Ring Torque Specs:

SCOPE RING	RING SIZE	TORQUE (In-Lb)
LEUPOLD	34mm / base screws 6-48	20-22
LEUPOLD	34mm / base screws 8-40	28
LEUPOLD	30mm / base screws 6-48	22
LEUPOLD	30mm / base screws 8-40	28

Most of my Scopes require 22 Inch Lbs. being 6-48 Screws. And be sure to use Blue Loctite Thread Locker on the Bases and the Scope Ring Screws. *Not Red or any other color!

03

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Thanks for the reply and I have Fat Wrench when i don't have to be real precise I use that mine is an older model so the lines aren't as easy to get right but I have a couple others that can easily go up by one inch pound at at time. As far as action screws I haven't touched them yet. Only the rings and base screws which I always go over several times during mounting. But for some reason the rings took just a hair more to re torque after initial sight in. Also I torqued the rings to 18 and bases to 30 as per instructions. I all ways like to check things on occasion to make sure things are staying tight especially on new set ups screws can stretch just a little bit and come loose over time I have found but if done after the first couple firings they might move they might not have had it both ways with same mounting technique.

Danf
And for those who have a Wheeler Fat Wrench like any other Torque Wrenches once set and used they need to be returned to Zero if they are digital or manual adjustable. And yes I also have a regular Inch Pound Torgue Wrench that I can use to assure my Fat Wrench is staying spot on!
03

Wheeler also offers a ring lapping kit to ensure complete and proper contact between scope & rings. 100 percent contact usually results in 100 percent reliability. The only rings I've used that mate almost without lapping are the NSN versions from Badger Ordnance. They don't come cheap unfortunately. Should you ever dismount the scope, check for marks that indicate other than 100 percent ring contact. Thin or multiple marring lines indicate the need for ring lapping. Don't forget proper screw torquing pattern when tightening, but the four screw vice six screw rings are pretty a standard pattern. JMHO.

Just wanted to give an update took a wild gues on the adjustment to bring the elevation back down got it pretty close before I took it back out to 50 yards and got it dialed back in will have to wait and see if it holds.

crostiger said:

Just wanted to give an update took a wild gues on the adjustment to bring the elevation back down got it pretty close before I took it back out to 50 yards and got it dialed back in will have to wait and see if it holds.

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Just what is the goal? With a 50 yard zero and a semiautomatic the usual goal is point blank. With a bolt action you dial in multiple zeros to retain point blank shooting over a wider spectrum of range. But the usable range of 5.56? So what is the goal? I've used my .223 Remington Bolt Mil-spec on P-Dogs in AZ at 400 yards, but that kind of shooting tolerance requires a KD 400 yard zero. So you have me somewhat confused.

M118 said:

Just what is the goal? With a 50 yard zero and a semiautomatic the usual goal is point blank. With a bolt action you dial in multiple zeros to retain point blank shooting over a wider spectrum of range. But the usable range of 5.56? So what is the goal? I've used my .223 Remington Bolt Mil-spec on P-Dogs in AZ at 400 yards, but that kind of shooting tolerance requires a KD 400 yard zero. So you have me somewhat confused.

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So the optic I have says to zero at 50 yards because of the reticle. Because it has pre calculated ranges out to 600 but according to the instructions says to zero at 50. Zeroed at 50 good for 20-200 for main hash mark which I know is a swing but will be close enough for what im using it for.

crostiger said:

So the optic I have says to zero at 50 yards because of the reticle. Because it has pre calculated ranges out to 600 but according to the instructions says to zero at 50. Zeroed at 50 good for 20-200 for main hash mark which I know is a swing but will be close enough for what im using it for.

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As with all Bullet Drop Reticles, they are only calculated for a specific load from a specific barrel length, in a specific rifle, and they only come close. Reference the Original Leatherwood ART. Most don't take into account humidity, elevation, etc.etc. I believe the acronym you reference is a SWAG. ( Semi Wild A$$ Guess) It is just my opinion but should you choose to use your reticle for ranging ang shot correction perhaps a simple Mil- dot reticle with a Mildot Master would make for a more accurate decision? But alas that bridge has been crossed. So all that can be done is to match the single load to the KD yardage that the optic was designed to reproduce. Any variable in scope height, projectile trajectory, or other than precalculated ballistics will end up in an ill fated poi poa discrepancy. Best I can say is to ensure that every controllable variable is . Use the best components with the most repeatable procedures and expect unreasonable variations. JMHO YMMV.