Ruger 10/22 improvments

Discussion in '.22 Rifle/Rimfire Discussion' started by stalkingbear, Sep 29, 2009.

  1. stalkingbear

    stalkingbear Well-Known Member

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    Bill Ruger had one hell of a good idea when he came out with the 10/22, but mass production being what it is-there's several areas ripe for improvement. There's a whole industry devoted to modifying & upgrading 10/22s. I personally have never seen/shot a stock 10/22 that I was happy to leave that way.

    The first area that I always look toward upgrading is the trigger. 10/22 triggers are horrible as they come straight from the factory. They have entirely too much pull weight, and excessive travel. I polish everything, install adjustable overtravel, shorten reset, lower pull weight, and sometimes install adjustable takeup screws (depending on order). I also modify the bolt release & install extended magazine release while I'm working on the trigger group. When I get done it'll have a 2-3 pound trigger, free of all but the necessary minimum travel needed to reset.

    Milling the bolt face down to .043 rim thickness depth will assure exacting headspace but is not something a beginner should tackle without a mill and depth mic. Also milling a radius on the bottom rear of the bolt smooths operation & hammer reset in the case of subsonic or target ammo being used.

    There's so many aftermarket barrels for sale that it's hard to decide which to choose. All I will say is to buy the best barrel you can afford and you won't be sorry. The absolute best barrels will run as much as 350$ but decent barrels may be had for 150-200$ or even less.

    Once you change the barrel to a .920 "bull" barrel, you'll have to inlet the stock for it or replace the stock altogether. Of those 2 options, I usually opt for another stock. There's some "sporter" weight barrels on the market and these will fit into the factory barrel channel in the stock without alteration.

    Scoping a target quality .22 is not as easy as simply slapping a cheap scope on it. As with most things you get what you pay for, and scopes are no different. I HIGHLY prefer to have a scope with adjustable objective when mounting on a .22. The reason for this is parallax. Most scopes meant to be mounted on centerfire rifles are factory adjusted to be parallax free at 100-150 yards. Most .22s are zeroed in at 50 yards. Therein lies the problem.

    You can't properly set up a .22 without using quality ammo. Sure it'll shoot all ammo better than before, but cheap bulk wal-mart ammo just don't do it justice. Trying different ammo to see how it groups is purely fun.

    In case anybody wants me to rework a trigger group for them PM me for details. Neil
     
  2. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

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    I'm pretty happy with my 10/22, but it has the typical Ruger gritty trigger. I haven't put more than a few hundred rounds through it and was figuring that it would eventually smooth up.

    I've had too much else going on to mess around with it, but now after reading this, I may just have to work on that trigger a bit.

    Thanks Bear. :cool:
     

  3. Dillinger

    Dillinger New Member

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    Very nice. Well done Bear!

    To anyone with a stock Ruger 10/22 - you really need to tap this man for his knowledge and wealth of experience. He is a true book of knowledge, and not only about this particular firearm.

    JD
     
  4. Jeepix

    Jeepix New Member

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    My first post here. After reading a bunch of posts, what a great group of people we have here!

    Bear- I think we all totally agree with you. I haven't shot a 10/22 factory that I've liked either. The trigger out-of-the-box is horrible and I've seen them range from 7lbs to what feels like 20lbs. You're concentrating more on getting the trigger to fell the hammer than getting a round off!

    I've done a manual trigger job on a friend's 10/22 because he didn't have the money for an aftermarket trigger kit, knocked it down to 3lb 10oz according to my trigger gauge. But, that isn't always the easiest thing to do and if you take too much off one of the parts, you go into full auto.

    For those interested in doing a trigger job with aftermarket parts by themselves, it's not too terribly hard. You could read the following article(s) and, if nothing else, knowing exactly step by step what you need to do you can either decide to do it yourself or know it's above your skill set. :) There's also an article to replace the bolt release to the 'auto' version and extended magazine release, etc. Detailed pictures, can click to enlarge and what-not. It also includes links to all the parts used.

    I hope someone gets some use out of them:

    Link to Ruger 10/22 Trigger Kit Install

    Ruger 10/22 Auto Bolt/Magazine Release

    Future articles to replace the firing pin, extractor and replace bolt handle with an extended.


    Enjoy? :p
     
  5. Highpower

    Highpower New Member

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    Mr. Bear;

    That is a modification I have not run across before, but it does make a lot of sense to me. Might I ask what size radius you are applying to your bolts?
    Thanks.
     
  6. stalkingbear

    stalkingbear Well-Known Member

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    All you do is make a radius where the bottom rear of the bolt is sharp & contacts the hammer-it don't have to be a certain size. I wish my nephew was here so I could take before/after pics.
     
  7. Highpower

    Highpower New Member

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    So basically, just enough to break the sharp edge and give the hammer a surface to "roll" under then? If you do get a chance to take a few pics and post them I would be very interested in seeing the end result. I don't want to over-do it, since taking material off is so much easier than putting it back on. ;)

    Thanks again.
     
  8. stalkingbear

    stalkingbear Well-Known Member

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    That's exactly what is done. Just round off the back so that the hammer cocks a lot easier. It really helps the reliability when using low powered target/subsonic ammo. I'll post pics as soon as I can.
     
  9. Jeepix

    Jeepix New Member

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    Wow, thanks for the feedback. I hadn't heard of that modification. What a great idea. I'm looking forward to the pics, too!
     
  10. masterPsmith

    masterPsmith New Member

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    I put a radius on this one to help in functioning with standard velocity target and sub-sonic rounds and also lightened the bolt, which also helps with reliable functioning. Hope the photos help.

    Jim...........
     

    Attached Files:

  11. stalkingbear

    stalkingbear Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the pics Jim! As they say, a picture is worth 1,000 words. That's exactly what I was talking about.
     
  12. Jeepix

    Jeepix New Member

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    Right on! Thanks Jim! I guess I know what I'll be doing tonight or tomorrow. :)
     
  13. Jo da Plumbr

    Jo da Plumbr New Member

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    I just picked up my first 10/22 Friday. dropped the hammer on some snap caps and could not believe the trigger pull needed. Your timing could not be better Bear. I'll do some reading and see if I think I can work the trigger at home.

    Thanks

    Jo
     
  14. Highpower

    Highpower New Member

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    OK then. Thanks Jim. In my mind I was picturing a much more pronounced radius at the rear edge of the bolt. Having lightened your bolt like that, are you using one of the polymer buffer pins in the rear of your receiver now - or restricting the gun to sub-sonic ammunition?

    I'm just wondering how long the receiver would last with a steel pin and high velocity ammunition with the lighter bolt?
     
  15. masterPsmith

    masterPsmith New Member

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    I use a delrin pin for the buffer. As for the radius, it does not need to be a real pronounced radius. The bolt is not lightened so much as not to be usable with high velocity ammo. Although I usually only use this bolt with target ammo in my custom 10/22. I have a standard weight bolt for use with high velocity stuff for my general shooting.
    If your going to do trigger work, while you have it apart, you might want to install a trigger overtravel stop. The photo shows where to place it.

    Jim..................
     

    Attached Files:

  16. Highpower

    Highpower New Member

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    Outstanding. Thanks again for the information. I built my rifles from the ground up several years ago, so the trigger work is already done. I just happened upon bear's post about the bolt modification and thought it was something worthwhile that I should try myself as well. Every little bit helps, eh? :D

    p.s.
    Did you by chance weigh your bolt before and after. Just curious as to how much weight you shaved off.
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2009
  17. masterPsmith

    masterPsmith New Member

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    Your more than welcome.:):)
    The standard bolt weighs 6.4 ounces on my postal scale and the lightened bolt weighs 5.6 ounces.

    Jim..........
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2009
  18. Patrick Sperry

    Patrick Sperry Member

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    Okay, I'm new here but I call bear brother

    I recently bought my better half her first rifle, a 10/22 Sporter. Bear was thrilled, and so was I. But, it shot like crap. Mostly due to a very poor trigger. Not something that I wanted to teach her with.

    Anyways... After a bit of frustration I talked with bear about it, and he sent me a trigger group. To say that the difference was fantastic is an understatement.

    With standard Mini Mag target Plinker ammo it is shooting dime size groups at fifty yards. At least when I do my part!

    He does the same things with 870's and next month he will have one of those to work his magic on!