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Roll Crimping

1233 Views 14 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  locutus, 
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Made up my first ever 10 .44 Special loads this evening. I have a roll crimping issue. In setting my crimp, I got my OAL set and then backed off the seater and lowered my die to set the crimp. On a couple cases I buckled the case about half way up.

I am loading 180 grain lead RNFP and putting the bullet to a seat where the top of the case is right at the top of the cannalure. Should I be leaving the bullet higher and crimping in the middle of the cannalure? I don't have to worry about the OAL in relation to the cylinder length. I hate ruining cases. I'll be test firing the first rounds I made in the morning.
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locutus
rjd3282 said:
Rick it might be faster but it isn't the best way to do it. Crimping should be done with it's own die. You'll get better results if seating and crimping are done separately.
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100 percent agree!

Remember that uniform case length is CRITICAL when roll crimping. I have gone to the LEE factory crimp die. Case length is far less important, and the FCD is easier to adjust and use.
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locutus
robocop10mm said:
I disagree. Taper crimps must be applied in a separate operation. Roll crimps can be done in the same setp as bullet seating.
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That's true, if you trim to uniform length. I don't trim handgun brass. I load in batches of 2000. Trimming would be quite onerous.
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