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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Made up my first ever 10 .44 Special loads this evening. I have a roll crimping issue. In setting my crimp, I got my OAL set and then backed off the seater and lowered my die to set the crimp. On a couple cases I buckled the case about half way up.

I am loading 180 grain lead RNFP and putting the bullet to a seat where the top of the case is right at the top of the cannalure. Should I be leaving the bullet higher and crimping in the middle of the cannalure? I don't have to worry about the OAL in relation to the cylinder length. I hate ruining cases. I'll be test firing the first rounds I made in the morning.
 

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I crimp right in the middle of the grove. How much are you crimping. It takes a lot to buckle a straight walled case. Perhaps you should back off a little. You can always add a little more if you think it is not enough.
 

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When I set my dies I raise the ram with the case in it. I screw the die in until it touches the the case. I then tighten an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Never more than 1/2. But often 1/4 is enough.
 

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When I do both with one die I set the bullet depth first. I do it with the die way back so it doesnt crimp. Then after the first bullet is the right depth I take the seater out to set the crimp. Once the crimp is set I put the seater back in and slowly screw it in util it touches the bullet that I just crimped.

Does that make sense?
 

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Way, way, easier with a separate crimp die.
 

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Not really. Once it is set up doing both at once is much faster. I have both types.
 

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A heavy roll crimp should not be necessary on the .44 Special. Light to moderate is generally fine. I prefer to set my crimp at the middle of the crimp groove (cast bullet) or cannelure (jacketed bullet).

Case length will affect crimp. You should start with cases EXACTLY the same length. A case that is a bit long will render a heavier crimp and possibly buckle. Setting the crimp a bit lighter will give you some fudge factor for inconsistant length.
 

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Rick it might be faster but it isn't the best way to do it. Crimping should be done with it's own die. You'll get better results if seating and crimping are done separately.

100 percent agree!

Remember that uniform case length is CRITICAL when roll crimping. I have gone to the LEE factory crimp die. Case length is far less important, and the FCD is easier to adjust and use.
 

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I disagree. Taper crimps must be applied in a separate operation. Roll crimps can be done in the same setp as bullet seating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I made up another 90 today. No problems now. I lengthened the OAL by .050" and that put the top of the case near the top of the cannalure. Much easier to put the roll crimp in.

I'm loading lead 180gr RNFT 7.8gr Accurate No. 5. Shot 10 of them this morning and I was a little disappointed with the recoil. They shot nicely but quite frankly my LC9 recoils heavier. I was all geared up for more recoil based on the way everybody talks about how the .44 recoils. I did shoot some 180gr Remington Magnums and that got more intense.
 
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