Rifle Refinishing Duracoat HK Black (semi gloss) in Charlotte, NC Area

Discussion in 'Engraving & Refinishing' started by ARnoob, Aug 6, 2010.

  1. ARnoob

    ARnoob New Member

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    I'm thinking of having my SAR 3 and M70 Ab2 refinished in Duracoat HK Black (semi gloss). I really like that look. Do you guys know of anyone in the Charlotte, NC area who does this? What should that cost me? I know that I could refinish it myself with the $50 kit, but I don't have the proper area/tools to strip and degrease the original finish.

    Thanks!
     
  2. ARnoob

    ARnoob New Member

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    I was looking at a site that has some of the official Duracoat patterns, and the Multicam looks nice. I also kind of like the Russian "Flora" pattern.

    I think that I'll just have the poly furniture of my Arsenal 106fr Duracoated instead of the entire rifle.


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  3. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Have you thought about doing it yourself? Duracoat cures at room temp and takes about 2 weeks. Brownells has aerosol cans of the stuff.
     
  4. TheOldMan

    TheOldMan New Member

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    Using the aerosol cans is gonna suck especially if it's your first time. Most often the can will freeze up on you while you're spryaing prompting you to keep dipping the can in luke warm water to avoid that from happening. You could get set up with an air brush kit for less than $100 if you shop around.

    I use a 2.5 gal. compressor from HomeDepot and an airbrush I picked up at a Hobby shop for about $26. If you do end up doing it yourself, make sure to follow the directions to the letter and measure correctly. Preping the firearm well is also a must..

    Take it from me, you will aprreciate the results much better knowing you did it yourself too.

    By the way, Duracoat does not come premixed in aerosol cans..
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2010
  5. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

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    I'm going to use Aluma Hyde II from Brownell's on my 1917. I'll post pictures of how it turns out. It is a no bake finish and comes in an aerosol can.
     
  6. ARnoob

    ARnoob New Member

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    Yeah, I have thought about doing it myself, but I'm not experienced with an airbrush or even the cans. I looked around at places that offer the service, and it certainly is expensive.

    I'd be happy with just having the furniture Duracoated, but it would still cost quite a bit.
     
  7. ARnoob

    ARnoob New Member

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    I'd love to see how yours turns out.
     
  8. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    I do stand corrected about Duracoat and aerosol cans. I apologize for the mistaken information.

    In any spray painting (can, gun, air brush), runs will normally come when the piece being sprayed is upright. As with shooting, practice is very useful.
    With my first frame, I used GunKote and a small gravity feed spray gun. After baking, the wife saw how it turned out and had me do some brass coated knobs. The knobs are still complete with no flaking, peeling, chipping, or any other problems. and these are on cabinets that the knobs are grabbed throughout the day.

    (A good practice is to grab a spray can and "paint" a sheet of cardboard leaning against something. Or a metal outside piece of furniture. Hit Wallyworld and spend a couple of bucks. You will learn that light spraying will last longer, be neater, than graffitti on a railroad side car.)
     
  9. TheOldMan

    TheOldMan New Member

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    A can certainly appreciate your apprehention in wanting to dive in and do this yourself. I didn't know the first thing about using an airbrush either until I did my first gun but it turned out very nice. I've added a picture of the alloy frame of a winchester 290 that I did for a friend of mine. Key things to remember is to follow the directions to the letter (both in shaking the bottle for three minutes after the ball releases inside and getting the correct mix between paint and hardener).. For very reasonable cost, I think it pays for itself. Firearm prep is also key to a good finish.
     

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  10. lonyaeger

    lonyaeger New Member

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    I did both my AR and my 10/22 with Duracoat. I used the kit.

    You said "strip the original finish." Unless the gun has been painted before, yoiu don't have to do anything to the existing finish, other than degrease it, which is ESSENTIAL.

    It's easy to do. It looks fantastic. Doesn't take a lot of room. Does NOT take two weeks to cure, unless you're going to put the weapon through the wringer. You can reassemble and use within a few days. And it's fun!

    I'll post photos of the two rifles I did when I get a chance.
     
  11. ARnoob

    ARnoob New Member

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    Quite nice work there. As for the preparation of the firearms, I don't have the tools for that, so that would be an issue as well.

    If I'd just be doing the polymer furniture, I don't believe there would be much prep, other than just making sure that its clean. I may just give it a shot.
     
  12. ARnoob

    ARnoob New Member

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    What exactly does degreasing entail? Thanks.
     
  13. lonyaeger

    lonyaeger New Member

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    The kit comes with a solution and a scrubber that you use to be sure that any surface that you're going to paint is completely grease-free. You can just pour it into a disposable cup to soak, clean, and scrub any small parts.
     
  14. TheOldMan

    TheOldMan New Member

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    Duracoat does recommend that the part your painting be roughened up to help facilitate adherence of the finish. Duracoat also continues to harden or "set" several weeks after application.

    Great stuff though. Sure beats Krylon;)
     
  15. ARnoob

    ARnoob New Member

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    Thanks. I thought that I needed some kind of pressure hose to blast any old finish off. But it doesn't sound that bad.
     
  16. ARnoob

    ARnoob New Member

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    I wonder if I just did the poly furniture, if I could use some '00' steel wool....
     
  17. lonyaeger

    lonyaeger New Member

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    But are you sure there's actually a "finish" on what you're going to paint? That's what I'm not understanding. What exactly are you painting?
     
  18. ARnoob

    ARnoob New Member

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    You're right. There's no finish that I'm aware of. I'd just be painting over polymer.
     
  19. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Some chemicals do not like styrofoam.
     
  20. lonyaeger

    lonyaeger New Member

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    By "disposable," I meant a cup that you aren't so fond of it that you can't throw it away.

    ARnoob, you should be good to go on painting the polymer.

    Of course, I claim no responsibility... ! :cool: