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I don't like the idea of carrying a pistol so that it can point at the the family jewels. Not that they are often used for their intended purpose, but if shot away, you can bleed to death in a two shakes. (no pun intended)
Right holster make a big difference in directing the muzzle away from the twig and berries. Draw and holstering technique also make a big difference. But I wouldn't want a single action with a 1/16 inch trigger travel in my pants either pointing at my "boys". 1911s, when I carry one usually ride in a outside the waistband holster, but I pretty much don't carry 1911s any more. If I want a .45 single stack to carry, I usually opt for my Sig P220. Just a tad lighter in overall weight, and it is a point and shoot pistol without the need for me to manipulate anything but the trigger.

Lately I've really come to appreciate the DA/SA autoloader with a decocker.
 
Varies with the situation but at this time of year it is usually a laser grip 638 revolver front right pocket. I am old and slowing down. If I get into an altercation it is more likely to be up close and personal. I might have to jam the gun into the attacker.
 
:confused:
CCW QUESTION:

Do you carry a revolver or semi-automatic?
Whats your current EDC?

Thanks much.
semi auto for one reason only.

semi auto you will always get one to go bang. pocket debris, lint, foreign objects, or clothing can jam a cylinder stop it rotating and prevent a revolver from going bang. revolvers never jamming is yet another ginormous myth. when a semi jams, tap rack or change mags and rack the slide will clear 99.99% of all failures. when a revolver jams, it general takes tools to clear.

there is a reason revolvers are not used as any service weapon in any army on the planet since ww2

semis may jam but the round in the chamber will go bang everytime.

i carry either an fn509, beretta m9a3, or fn five-seven.
 
:confused:

semi auto for one reason only.

semi auto you will always get one to go bang. pocket debris, lint, foreign objects, or clothing can jam a cylinder stop it rotating and prevent a revolver from going bang. revolvers never jamming is yet another ginormous myth. when a semi jams, tap rack or change mags and rack the slide will clear 99.99% of all failures. when a revolver jams, it general takes tools to clear.

there is a reason revolvers are not used as any service weapon in any army on the planet since ww2

semis may jam but the round in the chamber will go bang everytime.

i carry either an fn509, beretta m9a3, or fn five-seven.
JonM,

I won't try to discourage your choice, but the auto pistol is not that all fired reliable, either. Faulty ammunition, especially a dud primer does require a tap-rack move. Also a pistol that has for one reason or another been forced out of battery will not fire. A missed safety of guns so equipped and nothing happens.

First of all, my gun is not likely to be subject to lint nor foreign matter, though lint is not sufficient to bind the cylinder.

And, I might point out, in the event of a dud primer, a swift cocking of the hammer and pull of the trigger brings up a quick follow up, without the two-handed immediate action required of an auto loader.

I feel more comfortable with a big bore Single Action revolver on my hip, you feel more comfortable with an auto loader. Neither one is infallible.

Bob Wright
 
revolver or semi-auto, if they have moving parts, they can fail. nothing that is mechanical is immune from failing.

having spent almost my entire life at repairing various types of equipment, i have found this to be a fact of life.
 
revolver or semi-auto, if they have moving parts, they can fail. nothing that is mechanical is immune from failing.

having spent almost my entire life at repairing various types of equipment, i have found this to be a fact of life.
So, I take it you've met my good friend Murphy as well? Always seems to show up just when i really don't want him there. ;)
 
So, I take it you've met my good friend Murphy as well? Always seems to show up just when i really don't want him there. ;)
oh i have met Mr. Murphy many times over the years. :eek:

and he shows up when it's the most inconvenient, and will cause the most problems.
 
oh i have met Mr. Murphy many times over the years. :eek:

and he shows up when it's the most inconvenient, and will cause the most problems.
Same thing I tell my customers when they call with yet another broken down AMF Harley. when Murphy visits, it's never if, it's when, what, where, and how bad.

Same goes with firearms. had to help a friend tear down a jammed up GP100 once. Taught me a lot about what to triple check in my own. best one so far though, was a friend's Springfield EMP, which would not chamber a round off the mag. 5 different guys at the range took a crack at it, before it got to me.

I found the problem in about 15 seconds. No recoil spring guide rod on a brand new pistol.
 
Same thing I tell my customers when they call with yet another broken down AMF Harley. when Murphy visits, it's never if, it's when, what, where, and how bad.

Same goes with firearms. had to help a friend tear down a jammed up GP100 once. Taught me a lot about what to triple check in my own. best one so far though, was a friend's Springfield EMP, which would not chamber a round off the mag. 5 different guys at the range took a crack at it, before it got to me.

I found the problem in about 15 seconds. No recoil spring guide rod on a brand new pistol.
this is why i make it a standard practice to field strip any new or used firearm i buy. i do quick inspection to make sure everything is where it's suppose to be, and not missing parts, along with doing a cleaning and lubing.

one of the best ways to keep Mr. Murphy away is to do proper preventative maintenance. this applies to everything i own, and not just guns.
 
this is why i make it a standard practice to field strip any new or used firearm i buy. i do quick inspection to make sure everything is where it's suppose to be, and not missing parts, along with doing a cleaning and lubing.

one of the best ways to keep Mr. Murphy away is to do proper preventative maintenance. this applies to everything i own, and not just guns.
Same goes for things I don't own, as the house is a rental (looking at a 150 acre plot in Crawford County that's in the preapproved loan amount through my bank so we'll see) and the rreplacement for the tottalled Ford is a leased 2017 Hyundai Ellantra (no owed amount hanging over the loan, so all it shows is payments made, not debt owed. looks better on a credit report.)

if it's under my control, regular upkeep is done, and if I can't inspect it prior to buying it, I pass on it. Had a chance at a "gently Used" DE44 a few years back, and passed it up, after the shop owner wouldn't allow a quick take down and inspect on it. Looked great on the outside, but I later found out I dodged one hell of a bullet, when a friend bought it at near new prices, and the internals were more worn than the guts of a Chevy small block, run low on oil, for 500,000 miles.

Around the same time, i picked up a well worn mini 14, Government Barrelled that looked like hammered $#!+, as most LE and DOC guns do, but was like brand new inside. much better investment IMHO.
 
Depends on the weather . When its a 117 out I stay home mostly , but my FM Detective 9 mm hides well . Winter my 1911 in a shoulder rig or my FM ful size in a high rise . Haven't figured out how to carry my Cimmaron 357 7 1/2 barrel yet :) .

Sorcerer
 
I just re-read your question and I'm out in left field with a catcher's mitt.

Didn't realize SA meant semi automatic.

SA always means to me a Single Action. Didn't dawn on me why you separated revolvers from SA.

Sorry to jump in wrong thread!

Bob Wright
 
If you have not had a revolver jam or malfunction you have not shot one enough. Primer backed out of a factory round and locked it up tight. A tiny piece of crud got behind the ejector star on a reload and the cylinder would not close. Primer only factory load pushed the bullet just into the barrel and locked the cylinder. Would have been worse in a semi auto racking a new round into a blocked barrel. Uncrimped bullet walked out and locked up the cylinder. I have had bad primers on revolvers and semi autos. Good idea to keep caliber size hardwood dowels in the shooting bag.
 
I just re-read your question and I'm out in left field with a catcher's mitt.

Didn't realize SA meant semi automatic.

SA always means to me a Single Action. Didn't dawn on me why you separated revolvers from SA.

Sorry to jump in wrong thread!

Bob Wright
Since I've owned a number of SA revolvers over the years, that was my same thought.
 
Depends on the weather . When its a 117 out I stay home mostly , but my FM Detective 9 mm hides well . Winter my 1911 in a shoulder rig or my FM ful size in a high rise . Haven't figured out how to carry my Cimmaron 357 7 1/2 barrel yet :) .

Sorcerer
Open carry, custom leather Alaska Rig would look good. Check local laws first of course, but something like that calls for custom leather.

If you have not had a revolver jam or malfunction you have not shot one enough. Primer backed out of a factory round and locked it up tight. A tiny piece of crud got behind the ejector star on a reload and the cylinder would not close. Primer only factory load pushed the bullet just into the barrel and locked the cylinder. Would have been worse in a semi auto racking a new round into a blocked barrel. Uncrimped bullet walked out and locked up the cylinder. I have had bad primers on revolvers and semi autos. Good idea to keep caliber size hardwood dowels in the shooting bag.
Last jam i had was with my 1851 Navy. Cap crushed into the action, under the hammer. for got to point it up or down when cocking it. Had my Sp101 jam on a popped primer, a friend's GP100 as well, and had a cleaning rag get into the works (small piece) while fixing a bad hand in my grandfather's old Colt Official Police. Never checked it when I put it back toegther, and found that out at the range.

Dealt with a few squibs over the years as well, last one 3 years ago on a bad handload (testing a friend's loads in his M29) when someone forgot the powder.

Yes, I do keep a few wooden dowels in the range bag, JIC.

Since I've owned a number of SA revolvers over the years, that was my same thought.
That was also my first thought, and yes, i do carry the vaquero, or the wife's Bisley, from time to time, both with 9 MM conversion cylinders and a spare .357\.38 one in a belt pouch, just not here in the city. Out on the farm to nail a coyote is one thing, but we have drug related gang activity here in the city, so I carry a primary and a BUG here, with at least 2 speed loaders or mags for each.
 
I just re-read your question and I'm out in left field with a catcher's mitt.

Didn't realize SA meant semi automatic.

SA always means to me a Single Action. Didn't dawn on me why you separated revolvers from SA.

Sorry to jump in wrong thread!

Bob Wright
SA always means single action. But the texting era has everyone "2 lazy 2 type"
U C?
 
You can have the 'best' of both (DA) revolver and a semi-auto by getting a DAO or DA/SA auto. And striker fires need not apply unless they have the 'second strike' capability. Probably the most important single feature of a GOOD/SAFE self defense handgun is the long (but smooth) deliberate trigger pull on at least the first shot. The most problems with unintentional discharges happen in the re-holstering and second when the stress is on and the trigger is pulled in a panic/jerk caused by an unexpected stimuli! Both of these is all but eliminated with a trigger pull of a DA revolver or an auto with a true DA trigger pull! :)
 
You can have the 'best' of both (DA) revolver and a semi-auto by getting a DAO or DA/SA auto. And striker fires need not apply unless they have the 'second strike' capability. Probably the most important single feature of a GOOD/SAFE self defense handgun is the long (but smooth) deliberate trigger pull on at least the first shot. The most problems with unintentional discharges happen in the re-holstering and second when the stress is on and the trigger is pulled in a panic/jerk caused by an unexpected stimuli! Both of these is all but eliminated with a trigger pull of a DA revolver or an auto with a true DA trigger pull! :)
With regard to DA/SA trigger pulls and reholstering, I have taken this advice more seriously as I move toward appendix carry. I have two pistols I am currently trying in this mode of carry. One is a Beretta Px4 Compact which is s hammer fired DA/SA with a Decocker only type safety. The other is a Canik TP9V2 which is a mechanical copy of a Walther P99 AS (if I could find one of the Walthers I might add it to my carry rotation, but they are only rarely imported currently with their focus on their PPQ pistols in the American market). If is a true DA/SA striker fired pistol with a decocker. Factory trigger pull is around 10lbs DA and 5.5 SA. The only thing I favor in the striker fired DA/SA is that it has a less busy exterior. Most of the controls are very flat and ther is no protruding external hammer. (It does have a visible striker indicator. )

Both pistols are simple to employ; Draw, point/aim, squeeze , repeat. They present well from a hoster and are very controllable. At 7yds hits on vital areas are pretty easy to pull off. Follow ups are very manageable. (Most of the hits off the paper plate were from 30 yd shots while I waited for a safe lane to do my 7yd drills.)

Px4 compact results. Drill was: Draw fire two at the 3x5, slide lock reload, fire 4 at the paper plate. (Ultimate goal is to do that in under 5 seconds, I'm not even close on that par time). The drill is then repeated to make sure you can get the same r better results twice in a row and that it wasn't just a fluke. This was a clean, two drills back to back, but times were still at 10 seconds. I have work to do to get my times down.



Same drill with the TP9V2.


I still feel comfortable carrying a striker fired pistol on or behind the hip. But my striker fired pistols do not incorporate fully staged strikers, like the PPQ, and some of the other striker fired guns that get more "rave reviews" for how crisp and light, their triggers are. Some of those in my mind would be akin to carrying a cocked and unlocked, 1911.
 
You can have the 'best' of both (DA) revolver and a semi-auto by getting a DAO or DA/SA auto. And striker fires need not apply unless they have the 'second strike' capability. Probably the most important single feature of a GOOD/SAFE self defense handgun is the long (but smooth) deliberate trigger pull on at least the first shot. The most problems with unintentional discharges happen in the re-holstering and second when the stress is on and the trigger is pulled in a panic/jerk caused by an unexpected stimuli! Both of these is all but eliminated with a trigger pull of a DA revolver or an auto with a true DA trigger pull! :)
just one minor correction on this. There is no reholstering. Only holstering. If you are in a situation where you needed that weapon, you will have it out until the threat, all of it, and it's possible friends, are no longer a threat. at that point, you will be able to safetly holster your weapon. Reholster implies not needing it, holstering it, and then having to redraw.

Doing it that way is a good way to get dead, so keep it out until there is no longer need to use it.
 
well I have on layaway a new ruger lcp 2 380acp even tho I love revolvers! and own a few but this little semiauto was a nice compact easy to carry pistol so I went with it for going to get my concealed carry permit with so anyone shoot, carry one of these ruger lcp 2 380acp and how do you like it?
 
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