Repair to my beretta 84fs

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing Forum' started by jj380acp, May 2, 2010.

  1. jj380acp

    jj380acp New Member

    hi everyone out there i just got my first Beretta. it was past on to me but with alot of damage to the slide and the trigger guard. the slide has a lot of rust which has made holes in the metal and the trigger guard has been rough up so some of the metal has eaten away. can i get some advice on how to repair the 2 problems and to get a finish as close to the original Burniton finish. thanks very much

    Attached Files:

  2. Jpyle

    Jpyle New Member

    Welcome to the forum. Hop over to the intro section and tell us a bit about yourself, may help to get more responses.

    My suggestion would be to have a gunsmith give the gun a thorough once-over. The rust and damage that you can see may only be half of the problems with the gun. There may be internal rust and corrosion to the barrel and chamber that make it unsafe to fire or just plain unreliable.

  3. jj380acp

    jj380acp New Member

    repair to beretta

    a gunsmith checked the firearm out it is working fine just the cosmetics that is bad. See the gun is a conceal carry and the sweat from the previous owner body rusted the slide. i need some advice apart from what the gunsmith said to repair it
  4. NGIB

    NGIB New Member

    That's a lot of damage. This will require some serious "polishing" to remove the pits and make it smooth again. If it were mine, I'd probably polish it out the best I could and use some form of painted finish. I don't expect this one will ever look like new again...
  5. jj380acp

    jj380acp New Member

    thanks NGIB that i will try out first but what polishing compound can i use and how do i go about doing the repair thanks again
  6. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

    Not to call you out but that damage isn't a result of carry, that's shear neglect.

    I'd guess it was stored for a prolonged period in a poly bag or lying on foam in a gun box. (In a salt mine!)

    If it were mine, I'd first get the gunsmith's OK in writing!

    Next I'd strip the gun to single parts. Any internal part showing signs of wear or corrosion would be replaced.

    All springs would be replaced along with any pivot pins regardless of wear/corrosion.

    The barrel would get close scrutiny and need to pass my inspection before I send any lead down range!

    I have a 6” grinder/wire wheel and an 8” dual buffer. I would take the wire wheel to both receiver and slide and wire off any rust. Go easy, watch the S/N and Do NOT create a lot of heat. Once the rust is gone, I’d start with a heavy grit compound and start buffing to remove the pits.

    You are not going to remove all the pitting but you can make it a lot better. Just like collision repair, spray on this Lauer surface filler then sand and repeat:

    DuraFil Surface Filler

    Follow instructions and continue to fill until your arm falls off or you get it the way you like it.

    Then finish up with Lauer DuraCoat Firearm Finish like this:

    Lauer DuraCoat Finish

    Jump in and don’t think about it. Just do it!
  7. stalkingbear

    stalkingbear Well-Known Member

    It's my opinion that you need to have it finished by a gunsmith. It's gone too far for home remedies. Any finish thick enough to fill in the pitting will also fill in the lettering & numbers if you try to do it yourself. It would be cheap insurance to let your local gunsmith refinish it for you.
  8. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

    I hope you don't have carpal tunnel syndrome. Polishing compound may take a couple of years. I agree with canebrake.
  9. Fisherking

    Fisherking New Member

    What you can also do is bead blast it to get the rust off and camoflage some of the pits . Brownells has a teflon moly bake on finish that has worked preaty good for me.
    Cover the lettering with masking tape 2 or three layers before bead blasting.
    This will give a mat type of finish.
    The teflon moly comes in a number of coloures.
  10. jj380acp

    jj380acp New Member

    canebrake thanks i had already given up hope and you saved me. oh yes the previous owner did have it in the original Beretta plastic case
  11. jeepcreep927

    jeepcreep927 New Member

    As stated above it's gonna take a lot of elbow grease to clean up that slide but I wouldn't put an aluminum frame near a wire wheel (read that: I have tried it and it caused more problems than the ones I was trying to fix). If you decide to strip the finish off the frame, a chemical stripper safe for aluminum would my choice.
  12. surgicaltech

    surgicaltech New Member

    I was thinking the same thing but with baking soda and if that doesn't do it, maybe crushed walnut shells.