I want to know what you guys would recommend to remove rust of a REM870? ITs very surface rust BUT its is my favorite hunting shotgun so let me know .
If the rust is just cosmetic I wouldn't remove it. I would just spray it with WD40. Then let use knock the rust off the gun. The chances are good that the rusted area will turn dark and be difficult to notice. If you physically remove the rust you will have a shiny area that is unfinished and likely to rust again very quickly.
0000 steel wool found at any hardware store...if done properly, won't remove much blueing at all... I'd give the affected area a good soak with Hoppe's, dry and rub...(with the grain of course...) The key is to try to keep a clean side of the wool on the metal, either switching around to an unused spot or shaking it out really well. I've heard of people who use oil WITH the wool but I've never tried it, the dry method worked best so I stuck with it... Welcome to the forum, stop by the intro thread and say hi when you get a chance!!
Thanks I am going the 0000 wool and hopps. I'll let you know how it goes but its super lite cosmetic rust but still shoot like a dream.
I use this stuff called Kano Sili Kroil. It is a silicone penetrating oil that will stop the rust from getting worse and actually break it down so it makes it harder to come back.
I live on the East Coast so salt water air can be,a real PIA & hard on guns. My gunsmith advised 000 or 0000 steel wool. For minor gunk, steel wool w WD40 will clean up & protect the metal. Beretta tech told me to NEVER use WD40 on the finish. The oil has cleaning chem in it which will degrade finish over time - according to him. Your gun, your decision. But if you remove the finish, you will have to keep it oiled. I keep an one of those blue-pens for scratches - works relatively well but it's a band aide at best. No short cut I know of to true Blue.
Yep, CLP and the Kroil is good too... IIRC Auotmatic Transmission Fluid has detergents in it too so that may work as well but don't quote me on it... Here's before and after of my latest attempt at rust removal... Shotgun is 55 years old and sat on a wall rack in an unheated garage for the last 10. The pitting was pretty deep but I think it came out as good as it can be without actually re-blueing...
Yep, CLR. It removes the rust and leaves the finish intact. I live on the Gulf Coast. The beach is about a mile from my front door. The salt air is good for keeping allergies under control, not so good for my weapons.
For light surface rust, visit the grocer. Over in housewares, get a COPPER Chore-Boy pot scrubber pad. Copper is softer than the steel of the barrel. Wet the pad with oil (Kroil or Sili Kroil is great, but if you don't have it, any light oil). Change to a clean spot every so often- the rust loading up on the pad is abrasive itself. When you finish, gun may have a coppery look. Clean soft cloth, Hoppes #9. that will go away. Change to clean spot on cloth now and again. Be sure to oil it after you finish. CLP is good stuff (cleaner/lube/ protectant- NOT the chemical calcium/lime/rust remover- CLR) THAT will strip bluing off- its 20% lactic acid.
With all due respect c3shooter, If you use CLR with water, the rust comes right off and the blueing stays on. The rest of your suggestions are spot on.
