removing scope

Discussion in 'Optics & Mounts' started by redscho, Jul 26, 2014.

  1. redscho

    redscho New Member

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    After a scope is sighted in on a particular rifle then it is removed (mounts loosened) and slid of the rail, how far will it be off when reinstalled?
    Rifle AR-15 with top rail. Scope Nikon 223 3 X 9, mounts Nikon P Series.
     
  2. Highpower

    Highpower New Member

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    Could be anywhere really. That is where a good collimator comes in handy. Once the rifle has been sighted in, check the cross hair location on the grid and write down it's coordinates. Then if the scope is later removed and re-installed, just re-attach the collimator and make sure it points to the same spot as before. If it doesn't, it's easy enough to dial in the scope again until it is.
     

  3. SSGN_Doc

    SSGN_Doc Well-Known Member

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    No hard and fast answer. Sometimes they are pretty close to where they were. Sometimes they are off paper.
     
  4. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    a lot would depend on the mount and the rings themselves. i am sure some would hold zero much better than others. cost of those would probably be the best factor to consider as IMO the higher the quality, the closer they would should return to sero when remounted.
     
  5. Sniper03

    Sniper03 Supporting Member Supporter

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    And as Axxe stated quality makes a big difference as well as little things like what were the mounts torqued to on the first location before removal and is it torqued to the same on the new installation? Then there is the aspect of what is accurate to one person, is not accurate to another. Some might be happy that after it was re-mounted if it was within a 4" group at 100 yards for example.
    For me the group would have to be dead on at 100 yards and within 1 MOA.
    So that is a factor also! From my experience most of the time if you re-mount a Scope leaving the rings on it and just re-titening the Rings or Mount to the Base Mount with the same torque specification you normally will be within 3" to 4" at 100 yards. Then you just have to tweek it to get it back on where it was before.

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  6. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    another point i'll add is this, that to return to zero when replaced requires a certain amount of precision that cheap can't achieve IMO. this would be one of those types of items where you get what you pay for. to design and manufacture an item that is capable of doing so out of quality materials cost money.
     
  7. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    use an adm (american defense manufacturing) quick detach mount. they return to zero so long as you attach it to the same rail location and push forward while attaching everytime.

    i use adm's exclusively. i run one on my precision ar15 and cannot detect zero shift. i routinely take the optic off as it helps with cleaning. a 42x bench rest optic is a boat anchor so being able to remove it as needed without zero shift is a big plus

    a collimeter will not tell you if zero shift has happened. they are seldom accurate enough to get a rifle on paper.
     
  8. Highpower

    Highpower New Member

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    Never been a problem for me but as they say YMMV. :)
     
  9. huffmanite

    huffmanite New Member

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    Have a fair number of scoped rifles. Seems I'm always swapping scopes around on one of the rifles, or taking one off for some reason and putting it back on. I always expect to re-zero a scope that went back on the same rifle. Can't recall ever not needing to re-zero a scope.
     
  10. Rick1967

    Rick1967 Well-Known Member

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    I have a flat top upper on my AR. I have my scope mounted to a 1 inch riser. I have a removable carry handle and also red dot. I have swapped back and forth many times. But as long as I put the riser back where it was I have not had to readjust the scope. The riser is the full length of the upper. I only shoot out to 100 yards with it. But it shoots real tight groups...sub MOA.
     
  11. Sniper03

    Sniper03 Supporting Member Supporter

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    And if you did not catch it? JON made a very important point! The Scope Ring or Mount Cross Bolts must always be pushed forward all the way and make contact with the front of the Scope Base or Picittiny Rail Slot. Since with recoil the weapon will move to the rear with each shot this is "VERY IMPORTANT"! If you do not mount them forward against Slot when tightening the scope rings or scope mount. This might allow the scope to move forward when the rifle is fired changing the zero!;)

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  12. redscho

    redscho New Member

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    Mount and rings are both Nikon. :)


     
  13. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    You will need to re-zero with those via live fire