Removing bluing/powdercoat?

Discussion in 'Engraving & Refinishing' started by BeyondTheBox, Nov 12, 2012.

  1. BeyondTheBox

    BeyondTheBox New Member

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    I'm not even sure what my gun has on it, I assume its bluing but I've never been much into different coatings or finishes on metal, other than chrome vs nickle. Anyway, I'd like to personalize one of my handguns by removing the blue on a few parts, like trigger, hammer, safety, mag release and grip screws, and take it to just a brushed steel. Should provide a nice contrast to accent it I think. Have seen a few Sigs that come this way and just love the look.

    I'm hoping that there's something simple like a liquid I can leave them soak in, like toilet bowl clog remover (the stuff you have to wear gloves when handling) or spray on to achieve my desired effect, but things are never that simple so I'm ready for suggestions.

    Tried the search function as this seems something that would've been approached already, but it sucks on this app I'm using and never produces any results.

    Thanks fellas.
     
  2. BeyondTheBox

    BeyondTheBox New Member

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  3. hiwall

    hiwall Well-Known Member

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    Go to a hardware store (or Home Depot) and buy " Navel Jelly". It is a thick liquid that will remove all blueing.
     
  4. c3shooter

    c3shooter Administrator Staff Member

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    The stuff that will remove bluing in NAVAL Jelly.



    NAVEL jelly is just disgusting! :p




    Sorry, could not resist! Bluing in a form of controlled rusting- it creates a thin layer of black iron oxide, instead of the more common red iron oxide of rust. Anything that removes rust will remove bluing- and Naval Jelly does a great job of that- as will anything with phosphoric acid. You can also remove bluing mechanically- buff it off.

    As soon as a carbon steel gun part is "in the white" it will tend to rust- which is why guns were blued- to keep them from rusting.
     
  5. BeyondTheBox

    BeyondTheBox New Member

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    Well I'm trying the White wine vinegar. It's working, now just gotta figure out a good way to polish the metal and give it a slight sheen.
     
  6. c3shooter

    c3shooter Administrator Staff Member

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    For polish- Flitz metal polish, soft cloth. After polishing a good wax can help stave off rust- even neutral Kiwi shoe polish.
     
  7. BeyondTheBox

    BeyondTheBox New Member

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    I have some Meguiars All Metal Polish and a dremel, unfortunately its not adjustable speed. Would you recommend against using dremel? What about Maguires and a rag by hand?

    Ps. Thanks for taking the time C3po.
     
  8. BeyondTheBox

    BeyondTheBox New Member

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    Well, I followed the eHow instructions, rinsed and repeated soaking process. Looks good. Now to put them back on. Ugh, I have no idea where these tiny parts came from, things just kept falling out. The hammer and some bar went flying, just praying I didn't miss anything else. Hahaha

    Ah the fun of being a man, we no need no stinkin' instructions. Hahaha
     
  9. racer_x

    racer_x New Member

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    Lmao ive done it more then once, what the hell was that, that hit the wall.
     
  10. BeyondTheBox

    BeyondTheBox New Member

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    Being such a shoot first ask questions later, dive in head first kind of guy, I tend to get myself in these situations a lot. I enjoy the challenge of being myself I guess, good thing, 'cause nobody else seems to. Hahahaha
     
  11. BeyondTheBox

    BeyondTheBox New Member

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    Alright, I did it. Should've given it a higher gloss polish, looks pretty uneven, but most of that is in the hidden ends of each piece. It's not too noticeable, but I like it. Left the gun blued, stripped the hammer, the trigger, the grip screws and the slide release/catch. Wanted to do the safety and magazine release as well, but they proved to be far too difficult to even remove, so I left alone. LOL

    So I lost the safety bearing twice, almost blew my top the second time, took 20min to find. Hahahah

    Man I never plan on doing that again with any gun ever. What a job!!! Ugh! Something odd happened when putting slide back on it didn't seem to fit near the trigger assembly, while jimmying it together the hammer, cocked at the time, then released. Very odd, couldn't seem to make it do that again, all safeties appear to be working flawlessly and the slide now fits perfect every time. No clue what was going on, maybe just something settling in. Fingers crossed. Decided I'm going to leave it unloaded until my next trip to the range, and be very cautious with it.

    Wish me luck fellas, and thanks again for all the advisements.
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2012
  12. BeyondTheBox

    BeyondTheBox New Member

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    Okay, today I did a little refresh with wet aluminum foil, really did a good job on it. Not sure how long the finish will hold, but I'm pleased with the outcome. It's hard to capture the look in pictures when the flash goes off, so I took one with and one without flash. Now I just need to figure out how to get the magazine release and safety toggles off and do them too.

    ForumRunner_20121113_162351.jpg

    ForumRunner_20121113_162444.jpg

    Whatch'all think?
     
  13. BeyondTheBox

    BeyondTheBox New Member

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    Ah ha, just removed mag release, saying screw the safety, had enough problems with that little bearing the last time.

    Just looked into duracoating, may go that route if things start to corrode or look worse. There's a pretty easy shake 'n spray application that seems right up my alley.
     
  14. gunsmoke11

    gunsmoke11 New Member

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    I'd be very careful what I put on the metal, especially harsh liquids that could possibly cause the surface to become pitted. A number of years ago a friend asked if I could remove some bluing from some small parts and I used jeweler's rouge on a rag and just rubbed. It only takes a little elbow grease and time, but the result is beautiful. I've used that method on other occasions.
     
  15. BeyondTheBox

    BeyondTheBox New Member

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    Sounds like another good method.