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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all.
The wife has been on me for a bit now to invest in a lockable solution for our guns. We can't spring for a full-on safe right now, but Stack On makes several "locker" style cabinets that we can manage, especially with the XMas sale prices and the Cabelas coupons I get almost weekly.
Problem is, those Stack On cabinets are just sheet metal and a cheap lock. Great for keeping babysitters or guests out of the thing, but not so much anyone with a crowbar.
I'm wondering if it'd feasible or worth my time to reinforce the door lock on one of these things with a supplementary hasp lock. My initial thought was to get a solid hasp lock, and two steel backer plates. Instead of simply bolting the hasp to the frame and door of the cabinet, I'd place the backer plates behind the sheet steel on the inside, and bolt the whole thing together. I'd have a layer of steel on the outside (hasp plate), middle (locker sheet steel), and inside (backer plate).

Would this conceivably make the thin sheet steel any harder to get into for a random meth fiend with a crowbar?
 

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I was thinking about getting the same cabinet. They are very thin metal. It would take the thief a little longer to get into if you put a hasp and padlock on it, but I don't think that the door as a whole could take an assault by a determined thief with a crow bar. You would have to bolt thing to the floor and the wall as well to make it even more secure. A bad guy with a crowbar and a hack saw would make short work out of that thin metal :( I was thinking about stashing one in the back of the closet. Maybe even make like a false wall in front of it! For the money it is a good deal for some kind of secure storage for your valuable weapons and such. Keep in mind that there is no protection from fire as well. Just my .02
Have a great day , and good luck in your search! BTW , keep an eye on Craigslist for some deals on an actual safe.
 

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Just my opinion- it is what it is- a low security storage option. Even if you reinforced the door, the seams just above the door are tack welded. A good hit with a 3 lb hammer will pop the tack welds. Then a crowbar or large screwdriver can peel it.

If you reinforce one point, the rest of the container is still weak. You beef up door, locking lugs are still bendable. It is better than hiding guns on the tops shelf of the closet, it will deter the person that is looking to be in and out in 3 minutes. Of course, any security container needs to be attached to the structure, unless you are storing 500 lbs of lead shot in the bottom...:p
 

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I'm in the same boat right now, like C3 said better than having em on the shelves on the closet.
Ill probably pick one up at the beggining of the year.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, all. Looks like I'll grab one and leave it be. Good for keeping the guns out of sight and behind a lock, but I'll keep saving for something more robust to trade up to.
 

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If you want to beef up the door a bit, you CAN add a hasp and padlock. Use some flat washers on the inside to spread the force of pull out a bit, and use a jam nut Second nut tightened down on the first) with the regular nut inside. Will make the door a little more secure, but rest of container still has weak spots.
 

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Heres what I suggest buy a job site tool box $150 and turn it on its end then buy some 3" dia pipe lengths 1" long PVC works fine also for legs for this then lag bolt it from the inside thru the legs and into the floor , the 1" legs keep the lid from touching the floor so it can be opened . they use 2 padlocks to lock the lid and these are very hard to get into . Cheap safe
 

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purehavoc said:
Heres what I suggest buy a job site tool box $150 and turn it on its end then buy some 3" dia pipe lengths 1" long PVC works fine also for legs for this then lag bolt it from the inside thru the legs and into the floor , the 1" legs keep the lid from touching the floor so it can be opened . they use 2 padlocks to lock the lid and these are very hard to get into . Cheap safe
Bet then he'd have to do it himself!! Maybe the gooberment will do it for him.
Sorry I had to.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Heres what I suggest buy a job site tool box $150 and turn it on its end then buy some 3" dia pipe lengths 1" long PVC works fine also for legs for this then lag bolt it from the inside thru the legs and into the floor , the 1" legs keep the lid from touching the floor so it can be opened . they use 2 padlocks to lock the lid and these are very hard to get into . Cheap safe
Cool idea. Happen to have a link to an example box? All the ones I'm seeing are $300+.
 

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heres the link to the one he has , his was on sale and I believe he got it for $155
My buddy has his set up like a coffee table with a cover on it so you really cant even tell what it is the only bad thing is you do it like that you have to built racking in them to put the guns and you have to remove alot of it to get to the bottom if you want something out of the bottom , no racks you start stacking guns and it becomes a cluster , set it on its end and you can lean them up against the wall instead of stacking them on each other .
http://www.ruralking.com/delta-job-site-box-42-toolbox-636990.html
 

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On the hasp lock mod: Why not make a rod that runs through the back of the locker to the door, through a piece of thicker steel attached to the inside of the center of the door and through the door sheet and then put a padlock through that rod? Kinda crude, but it would slow down the stupid ones.

I like the jobox.
 

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The Job Box is a clever idea, and if you cut 5/8" X type drywall to fit tightly inside all the sides and the top,you will get almost an hour of fire protection too.You can carpet or use self adhesive shelf paper to pretty it up and protect the drywall like they do in the factory safes.
 

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The Job Box is a clever idea, and if you cut 5/8" X type drywall to fit tightly inside all the sides and the top,you will get almost an hour of fire protection too.You can carpet or use self adhesive shelf paper to pretty it up and protect the drywall like they do in the factory safes.
Very true and the job box steel is heavier than most safe steel to be honest with you 5/8" waterproof drywall is heavier than most safes, most of them use 1/2" glued to the steel with construction adhesive and the corners sealed with construction adhesive or 100% silicone . and paper thin cheap carpet . I think I could make a safe out of a job box that would handle at the minimum of 1 hr and possibly 2 hrs of extreme heat . 2 layers of 3/4" would make it heavy as hell and rock solid against heat . man you got me thinking about making my own safe for my new house when we get moved in ;)

Just for reference a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" weighs 89.6# , doesnt take much area to make a couple hundred #s of drywall quickly
and a 4x8' sheet of 1/4" steel weights 326#
3/8 4x8' 489#
1/2" 4x8 652#
Doesnt take long to have a 1000# safe pretty quick
 

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Best way is camoflage. Hide the thing inside something else then dont tell anyone else especially children who talk to friends. Most home burgleries are commited by by teenagers who know something of value is in the home that they overheard the kids who live in the home talk about at school.
 

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Heres what I suggest buy a job site tool box $150 and turn it on its end then buy some 3" dia pipe lengths 1" long PVC works fine also for legs for this then lag bolt it from the inside thru the legs and into the floor , the 1" legs keep the lid from touching the floor so it can be opened . they use 2 padlocks to lock the lid and these are very hard to get into . Cheap safe
I'm stilll trying to visualize this, but it sounds... sheez, better than anything I've thought of!!!!


THANKS!
 

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heres the link to the one he has , his was on sale and I believe he got it for $155
My buddy has his set up like a coffee table with a cover on it so you really cant even tell what it is the only bad thing is you do it like that you have to built racking in them to put the guns and you have to remove alot of it to get to the bottom if you want something out of the bottom , no racks you start stacking guns and it becomes a cluster , set it on its end and you can lean them up against the wall instead of stacking them on each other .
http://www.ruralking.com/delta-job-site-box-42-toolbox-636990.html
I guess I'm being dense, but wouldn't the 48 inch one be better?

and btw, thanks for the Kaley pictures.
 

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I guess I'm being dense, but wouldn't the 48 inch one be better?

and btw, thanks for the Kaley pictures.
No problem with the pics , :D but depends on how big you want , thats the one they had in stock that my buddy could afford so he bought it I dont think he has any guns over 42" long anyway but yes it would give you more room .
I will draw up a sketch here in a minute and show you what Im talking about
 

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You can put a chain around it and through it and then let it go through the trigger guard of each gun just like on the old westerns. If you do put a lock make sure it is a Trojan lock and make a metal box so only the key will go in the lock. You can go out and buy 4 pieces of 1/4 to 1/2 inch metal strips about 6 inches wide and reinforce the lock.
 

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I have a friend that got my safe for me and it is a top notch one that is fire and water proof. I paid about 350 for it and it was a 800 dollar safe.
 
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