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So I was at the hardware store and I noticed some 'automotive' as well as 'high temperature' Rustoleum in flat black. I've used the "standard" flat black Rustoleum to "re-finish" an SKS, and that held up pretty well to CLP as well as the heat from firing - though it wasn't quite as durable as I'd have liked (it didn't peel off, but it did scratch off more easily than, say, whatever they put on ARs), so I stripped it.

But what of these other grill/high-temp/automotive Rustoleum products for firearm refinishing? The flat black rustoleum ('consumer grade') goes on pretty evenly and looks like a dark park job. I searched the Internet and I couldn't find any reference to the use of Rustoleum for firearm finishes, which surprised me.

So, has anyone tried Rustoleum refinishing of firearms, particularly the "high temperature" grill variant (1200F rating) or the automotive variant (which, IIRC, suggests a max use temperature of 200F. Would common firing bring a (say) pistol up to 200F? I'd think that a product intended for use in an environment where the culmination of high temperatures (enough to cook food on a grill, at least - at least as hot as a hot gun) and the expected scraping of the object with a metal spatula and metal brush (to remove built-up food) would be able to withstand the common wear and tear a firearm would, yes?

At what temperature is metal able to 'scald' a person? According to this, metal doesn't get to 'faint red' hot until around 930F, and I've never heard of a pistol getting that hot. I know rifle barrels can and do get up past 1500F, though that's kinda at the point that they go "boom".

Can anyone think of a reason why the $5 bottle of 'kick arse' grill/high temp Rustoleum wouldn't be superior to the $8+ "commercial" grade of (say) Krylon/Sherwin Williams, which I hear is essentially Duracoat (or maybe it was Guncoat, I'm not sure)?

So what think you, avid gun people?

BTW: Hi, I'm new! :p Stumbled upon this place with a search for "firearm refinishing forum" - this was the first hit.
 

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Spray paint isn't really known for it's durability, nor is it known to produce fine finishes. Do what you like with your guns. I'm not spray painting mine though.
 

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So I was at the hardware store and I noticed some 'automotive' as well as 'high temperature' Rustoleum in flat black. I've used the "standard" flat black Rustoleum to "re-finish" an SKS, and that held up pretty well to CLP as well as the heat from firing - though it wasn't quite as durable as I'd have liked (it didn't peel off, but it did scratch off more easily than, say, whatever they put on ARs), so I stripped it.

But what of these other grill/high-temp/automotive Rustoleum products for firearm refinishing? The flat black rustoleum ('consumer grade') goes on pretty evenly and looks like a dark park job. I searched the Internet and I couldn't find any reference to the use of Rustoleum for firearm finishes, which surprised me.

So, has anyone tried Rustoleum refinishing of firearms, particularly the "high temperature" grill variant (1200F rating) or the automotive variant (which, IIRC, suggests a max use temperature of 200F. Would common firing bring a (say) pistol up to 200F? I'd think that a product intended for use in an environment where the culmination of high temperatures (enough to cook food on a grill, at least - at least as hot as a hot gun) and the expected scraping of the object with a metal spatula and metal brush (to remove built-up food) would be able to withstand the common wear and tear a firearm would, yes?

At what temperature is metal able to 'scald' a person? According to this, metal doesn't get to 'faint red' hot until around 930F, and I've never heard of a pistol getting that hot. I know rifle barrels can and do get up past 1500F, though that's kinda at the point that they go "boom".

Can anyone think of a reason why the $5 bottle of 'kick arse' grill/high temp Rustoleum wouldn't be superior to the $8+ "commercial" grade of (say) Krylon/Sherwin Williams, which I hear is essentially Duracoat (or maybe it was Guncoat, I'm not sure)?

So what think you, avid gun people?

BTW: Hi, I'm new! :p Stumbled upon this place with a search for "firearm refinishing forum" - this was the first hit.
You forgot my favorite engine paint. It is good to 500 Degrees. My guns have never over cooked it yet. Another possibility is powder coating.
 

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Use the high temp stove paint to touch up WWII Enfields- close copy of the coating they used.
 
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I used camo-paint on my M-4 and im really impressed at the finish job. so impressed i also painted my Remington .308 with a differant pattern... no since sticking out like a sore thumb in the wood's.....
 

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Brownells sells a product called "Aluma-Hyde" it's available in gloss or matte black. It's good for steel, aluminum, and alloys. I used it to refinish the painted receiver of an old Ithaca Mod.49 .22 . It's a very durable epoxy finish and holds up well against abrasion and gun cleaners like gun scrubber. 4 years later and no scratches.
 

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Like RL said there are plenty of spray on finishes you can do at home if you want to. Brownells offers a few of them and I have heard they work real good.

I like to Krylon factory plastic stocks for hunting. If you scratch it then fine a few squirts of krylon and it is touched up.
 

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My brother does powder coating. A couple of years ago I took an old single barrel shotgun to his shop to see what the powder coat would look like. I used his sand blaster with glass beads and took it down to bare metal and then had him powder coat it in black. I wish I had taken pictures of before and after, but I didn't. I no longer have that old gun but I have to say that it did come out nice, I don't think that I would ever spray paint one, though.
 

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You forgot my favorite engine paint. It is good to 500 Degrees. My guns have never over cooked it yet. Another possibility is powder coating.
VHT?

They do make engine enamel good to 500 degees and they also make flame proof coating good to 2000 degrees. You would have to go to an auto parts store or speed shop to get this stuff. I used to use VHT flame proof coating years ago for painting headers on hot rods.

I dont think, however, that it would be a good coating for potential corrosion or rust protection on a firearm.
 

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Why use paint when re-bluing is no big deal. A Birchwood Casey kit costs less 15 bucks and it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to use it. Myself I would never even think of using paint on a gun, I have too much love and respect for them.

I have hunted for over sixty years and can’t remember the time an animal was spooked by a blued gun so I don’t think much of all this crap of camouflaging them. To me it makes a gun look ugly and believe that the whole idea was created by the manufactures to add to the price of the gun.
I don’t much like synthetic stocks either.
 

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I know this is an old thread but this reminded me of something

My cousins best friend bought a new bolt action hunting rifle. I cant remember the make but thankfully it was a cheaper brand. After watching all the experts on hunting shows he "learned" that the kind of thick woods he hunts requires a short barrel.
So out comes the hacksaw and 24" becomes more like 19". Just sawed it off, no attempt to square, recrown or even de-burr.
He also "learned" that it was important to have an "all-weather" finish.
Sooo off to Advanced Auto he goes and buys, I $hit-you-not, Rhino Liner. The brush-on truck bed liner. Did the wood stock and all!:eek:
I wish I had pictures, it sure was a sight to see, but he was very proud of his work:rolleyes:
 

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Rustoleum

I recently finished a $65 composite stock on my Enfield with a rostoleum texture paint and it came out beautiful. Everybody that has seen it like it. I'm not sure how it would work on the metal but works nice on the stock.
santa fe.jpg
 

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Yeah, I used the Black Rust-oleum High heat BBQ Spray on my Yugo m70ab2. I then put about 100 round through it and cleaned it with CLP and Hoppes. The finish was not affected. So far, so good! :)

Black Rust-oleum High heat BBQ Spray ($5)
RustOleum.com
 

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Glad to hear it holds up. I used "Premium Outdoor Metal and Wood Furniture Paint" We'll see if it holds up. The nice thing about paint is it is easy to touch up or re-do. I really like the texture on gun furniture. Don't get me wrong, a hand rubbed oil finish on nice wood is the way to go but on something beat up texture covers filler and hides well.
 
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