refinishing trigger guard

Discussion in 'Engraving & Refinishing' started by Mossyoakman3006, Apr 21, 2011.

  1. Mossyoakman3006

    Mossyoakman3006 New Member

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    So the bottom metal on my model 70 is looking pretty rough, Im tryin to put up a pic. I'm just wondering if there is a way to refinish it, dont really wanna spend big money gettin a new one, kinda wanna shy away from spray paint. Any ideas????
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2011

  2. 7.62 Man

    7.62 Man New Member

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    Have you tried cold blue a lot of people don't like it because they don't know the trick.
    The trick is HEAT.
    Yep just heat, you need the parts clean of any oils, or finger prints.
    Then heat until it is just to hot to hold, then cover it quick with the cold blue, for small to med. parts I put in a zip-lock bag & pour the blue over it, zip, & shake to cover parts.
    Rinse, reheat, & repeat until the color is dark enough for you. (normally 2 to 3 coats)
    then reheat and coat with a good quality gun oil in a plastic bag, keep warm & coated for 24hrs.
    You will have a good looking finish that you can be proud of.
    Birchwood Casey is the type I use, it is low cost, gives a good finish, & is easy to use.

    Birchwood Casey: Finishing List
     
  3. Mossyoakman3006

    Mossyoakman3006 New Member

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    Fraid it's aluminum, so no blueing, thanks though
     
  4. 7.62 Man

    7.62 Man New Member

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  5. Mossyoakman3006

    Mossyoakman3006 New Member

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    Interesting I never knew there was such a thing might have to give it a try, has anyone out there used it before. Thanks for the help
     
  6. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

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    Clean the scratches up and go with the Birchwood Casey. They make good products. It should turn out pretty good at minimum and maybe even perfect. At any rate, the scratches will be gone and the color will be uniform.
     
  7. Mossyoakman3006

    Mossyoakman3006 New Member

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    Do yall think I should strip the whole thing or just try and touch up the places that need it?
     
  8. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

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    That's your call. I use Bluing remover if I want to get a clean start. Some steel wool on the scratched area would probably do the trick. If it comes out blotchy, you can always strip the whole guard and start over. It's totally your call, it's not a big part. It may be worth removing the blue and keeping it simple.
     
  9. Mossyoakman3006

    Mossyoakman3006 New Member

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    So here's another question does anyone know where I might get some new action screws for this rifle that arent slotted. I would like to get some that are allen or torques head. The factory screws are worthless cant even begin to get them torqued correctly.
     
  10. Mossyoakman3006

    Mossyoakman3006 New Member

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    So I stripped the old paint and blue off of the trigger guard and floorplate. Then went to it with the Dremel with some wire wheels and polished it up, so my question is could I just leave it as is, I kinda like the way it looks. I know steel would rust but shouldn't aluminum be alright left bare???
     
  11. 7.62 Man

    7.62 Man New Member

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    You could coat it with a thin spray of Polyurethane to keep the finger prints off of it.
     
  12. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

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    It's your rifle, do whatever you want. ;)
     
  13. gooose

    gooose New Member

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    If it was a aluminum trigger guard it was probably anodized. Aluma-hydes a good choice for a coating as would be Gunkote, Duracoat or even Cerakote. Birchwood Casey has a blackening finish similar to their cold blue that you can also try. The Casey product probably won't give you much more than appearance and no surface protection if you've removed the anodized surface.You can also look at having the aluminum anodized again. All up to you as it's your gun.

    I've a pre-64 Mod 70 aluminum bottom metal set that I'll be trying Gun Kote on this weekend. Cerakote would have probably given me a tougher surface but the Gun Kote is easier for me to deal with for a DIY.