Discussion in 'Blackpowder & Musket' started by Heart-ShapedGlasses, Jun 6, 2007.

  1. I recently bought an Uberti Remington New Army forged and I do love it but I have some concerns. Maybe it is just me, that I am overly worried about my new "toy" but these are my questions:

    I have used both CCI. 10 and 11 caps. With a cap loader if I press down hard it will secure the .10's and if I crimp the .11's the same. The problem is I have two cylinders that I have to actually hit with the hammer twice before they fire. I don't know if it is the nipples or what. I have no issue with sending off to Taylor & Co. for new ones, but just wondered if anyone else had the same issue.

    Also, there is a grove being cut slightly into the cylinder. A friend of mine told me not to be concerned that even his ruger .38 has that issue. There is also a slight play in the cylinder. even at full cock. I just noticed this. I don't know the tolerance or have a clue how to measure it. The nipple for the most part still stays in striking area of the hammer and the loading lever always slides easily into the chamber at full cock. When I say slight, I do mean slight but like I said, I do not know how to measure the tolerance or what it even should be at. A friend of mine said his ruger does the same and not to worry.

    WILDCATT Guest


    the mark is normal on factory guns. a custom worked on gun will not have that mark.its the timing.C&Bs need a litle slop so they will work when the build up of residue takes place.carefull you do not damage the priming compound in the cap.if it breaks up you will get missfires or duds.:) :D