PSL accurizing project.

Discussion in 'AK & SKS Discussion' started by Mosin, Nov 19, 2012.

  1. Mosin

    Mosin Well-Known Member

    7,450
    357
    83
    So... Where to begin.

    I've started my Romanian PSL accurizing project.

    There are many things I know I could do, but right now, I'm keeping it cheap!

    Lets see what I can do. Currently, she is all over a pizza box at 100 yards. I know these rifles can be finicky, but lets see...
     
  2. JonM

    JonM Moderator

    20,110
    19
    38
    Easiest thing load your own ammo. Mine is moa to sub moa with handloads
     

  3. Mosin

    Mosin Well-Known Member

    7,450
    357
    83
    So I've read that the muzzle brake hinders accuracy on this rifle. This is sad to me because the muzzle brake look really drove me to get this rifle. It reminded me of something off of Star Wars... But I'm going for accuracy.

    The muzzle brake is pressed on, and pinned. some are actually screwed on.
    First I had to drive the pin out, which was very difficult. I bent one punch, then snapped another punch off, inside the brake. Soak in pb blaster for a few hours and it popped right out!
    Lesson 1, I hate Commies.
    Lesson 2, I love the invented of PB blaster.

    Not wanting to deal with more headache, I decided to soak the brake in PB Blaster for 2 days.

    I had my roommate slide a walking stick through the thumb hole stock, and wedge it between the door, so I could wail on the brake with a hammer and punch, to drive it off. No luck...
    He suggested I use a wrench, even though it wasn't threaded.... This worked, and the brake unscrewed from the barrel. However, it was not easy, and the force applied was enough to get the brake hot enough to burn my hand!

    If I was going to remove a brake like this again, I would use a torch and heat the brake, then press it off. However I didn't have a torch on me, so elbow grease and foul language it was.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Mosin

    Mosin Well-Known Member

    7,450
    357
    83
    Hey! Thanks for the quick reply! I know you're right, but I can't leave good enough alone! :-D
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Mosin

    Mosin Well-Known Member

    7,450
    357
    83
    So.... What to do about the trigger...

    SUPER MEGA YOU'RE GONNA PUT YOUR EYE OUT DISCLAIMER!!!! DONT DO THIS AT HOME EVEN IF YOU'RE AS DUMB AS ME!!!!

    Now that's out of the way, the trigger was nasty, gritty, and checked in at 8 lbs... Ugh.

    So I polished the hammer, where it mates up with the trigger hook. 2,000 grit sand paper, and elbow grease. Now it's got a mirror shine. I heated it up a little and soaked it in Frog Lube because why not? Sound good.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Mosin

    Mosin Well-Known Member

    7,450
    357
    83
    Next I polished the trigger hook, same as before, now instead of two rough, burred metal surfaces fighting each other on the trigger pull, it's 2 mirror smooth surfaces, gliding across each other.

    Then, I miked out the actual trigger hook, to see where it sat on the hammer... I realized that I could file off a bit of metal, for less contact area when I pull the trigger.

    I scribed the hook, to where I wanted it, then filed it down with a small hand file. And polished, and polished, and polished.

    I could have removed another mm of the hook had I wanted to, but I don't want to be unsafe.

    Speaking of unsafe, I did this trigger job because I ONLY use this rifle at the range (my back yard) and observe all range safety rules, including unloading the rifle before heading down range to check my targets. Should this trigger display any unsafe operating characteristics, I have no problem pitching it and getting a new tapco or Red Star trigger. I wanted to see what I could do.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. SSGN_Doc

    SSGN_Doc Well-Known Member

    6,926
    66
    48
    Rev town the barrel, thread it and put a better brake on it. You can shoot it for accuracy without the brake on if you want, but if you get the brake on true it shouldn't effect accuracy.
     
  8. SSGN_Doc

    SSGN_Doc Well-Known Member

    6,926
    66
    48
    The keys to a good trigger job that gives a nice crisp and predictable break is to keep the mating and release points square. That rounded edge will be slick but not crisp.
     
  9. Mosin

    Mosin Well-Known Member

    7,450
    357
    83
    Thanks for the feedback! I know it looks really rounded, trust me, I thought the same, but it sits at an odd angle when in the rifle, and the trigger is crisp. Not like my savage, 30-06... But I did go from 8lbs to this!
     

    Attached Files:

  10. Mosin

    Mosin Well-Known Member

    7,450
    357
    83
    Cocked the hammer, pressed on it, the second latch catches it. Slammed it on the ground, mortared the rifle... Stays cocked, doesn't fire.
    Seems safe. Still observe all range safety rules!!!
     
  11. SSGN_Doc

    SSGN_Doc Well-Known Member

    6,926
    66
    48
    You got a good reduction in weight. You can still square up the trailing edge if the hammer hook by working the angled upper portion back to meet the release point. That angled portion doesn't contact the hammer sear so it won't effect the overall engagement area or reduce your trigger travel as far as safety goes, unless you take it back past your current release point. If you go no further than that, all it should do is make the let off more crisp with no drag at release.
     
  12. SSGN_Doc

    SSGN_Doc Well-Known Member

    6,926
    66
    48
    Once you get it where you want it you may consider trying to harden those surfaces to make it last also.
     
  13. Mosin

    Mosin Well-Known Member

    7,450
    357
    83
    Now here's where the trigger job gets interesting... :-D

    I just installed the precision main spring from Carolina Shooter supply into my saiga 12. That's all I did to my saiga trigger, and that spring did this to my saiga 12...
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Mosin

    Mosin Well-Known Member

    7,450
    357
    83
    Thanks!!! I really enjoy the feedback! And welcome suggestions! I'll have to toy with your suggestions!!!
     
  15. Mosin

    Mosin Well-Known Member

    7,450
    357
    83
    However.... :-D

    Look at what I discovered... Both factory springs!
     

    Attached Files:

  16. Mosin

    Mosin Well-Known Member

    7,450
    357
    83
    They are identical.

    This means that I can order the Carolina Shooter Supply trigger spring for the Saiga 12, (around 8 bucks), and drop it in the PSL.

    Had I discovered that earlier, that's probably all I would have done.

    If that brought my saiga 12 trigger pull under 3 lbs, I am very curious as to its performance in the PSL.
     
  17. Mosin

    Mosin Well-Known Member

    7,450
    357
    83
    Shameless self promotion for my saiga 12 job. :-D
     
  18. Mosin

    Mosin Well-Known Member

    7,450
    357
    83
    ............
     

    Attached Files:

  19. JonM

    JonM Moderator

    20,110
    19
    38
    The psl muzzle brake has no effect on accuracy one way or the other.

    Limit your shots to one or two before letting the barrel cool. Its a super thin very whippy type barrel and once it heats even a little accuracy goes right to hell.
     
  20. Mosin

    Mosin Well-Known Member

    7,450
    357
    83
    Thanks for the feedback Jon. I'll keep that in mind.

    The reason I chose to remove the brake is because in the guns and ammo complete book of the ak-47, Gabe Suarez has an article (pg 100), and he claims that he closed a 2moa once he removed the brake. He claims it disturbs the exit of the bullet.
    I was going off of that when I made my decision.