Protecting a match grade stainless barrel?

Discussion in 'Competition Shooting' started by DougG, Oct 31, 2009.

  1. DougG

    DougG New Member

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    Lots of opinions in previous threads regarding general practices for cleaning and maintenance, but I'd appreciate opinions on premium tools and supplies and the methods to use them. I'm a newbie to competition and don't want to screw up my brand new barrel before I even get started or affect my ability to score. Thanks.
     
  2. c3shooter

    c3shooter Administrator Staff Member

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  3. DougG

    DougG New Member

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    Very good article. Thanks. Can I use a copper brush on a S/S barrel, or should I use a nylon or other synthetic brush?
     
  4. c3shooter

    c3shooter Administrator Staff Member

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    I know of no reason NOT to use a bronze brush on a s/s bbl. Steel of the barrel is several times harder than the bronze brush. Fouling starts to accumulate in the corners of the grooves- it takes a brush to get it out. A lot of folks are fans of the boresnake, but that is not going to fully cover the depth/ width of the grooves.
     
  5. Highpower

    Highpower New Member

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    c3shooter speaks the truth. :)

    A couple of things I would reiterate from that article is:

    Use a coated one piece cleaning rod. Do NOT use a sectional or "jointed" rod! I prefer the Dewey brand cleaning rods myself...

    Also use a bore guide, and clean from the chamber end of the barrel. (If at all possible.)

    Never dip your bore brushes in your bottle of bore solvent. Use a squirt bottle or similar to apply the solvent to your brushes and patches. That prevents contaminating your solvent supply...

    I also clean my brushes after use, to remove any abrasive particles / fouling and to flush the solvent from the bristles & core. The ammonia in your bore cleaner will continue to eat away the copper contained in your cleaning brush - just as it attacks the copper fouling in your barrel. :eek:

    A quick spray with some carb / brake cleaner or "bore scrubber" will do the job and make your brushes last longer, as well as prevent re-introduction of old fouling back into your barrel at your next cleaning.

    JMHO.
     
  6. cpttango30

    cpttango30 New Member

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    My match grade SS barrel never sees a brush. most of the bench rest guys don't ever use brushes. Many use GM top end engine cleaner for the carbon fouling.
     
  7. Highpower

    Highpower New Member

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    I started out that way too - until I bore scoped my new Krieger after the first several trips to the range. I only shoot moly coated Sierra's in that one, and only cleaned with patches in the beginning. The barrel looked squeaky clean to the naked eye. But the scope showed me that I was getting a moly buildup in the corners, so I do run a brush through it now and then to clear out the black "fillets".

    Besides -- benchrest shooters are a strange bunch.... :p
     
  8. DougG

    DougG New Member

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    Thanks. I read a good routine on the Shilen website FAQ's. I figure they must know what they're doing. If I read it right it sounds something like this:

    Assuming 20 rounds fired through the barrel, run a bronze brush with powder solvent 20 "cycles" (one back and forth in the barrel per round fired). Then remove the brush reapply the solvent and 20 more cycles. Then one dry patch through the barrel and out the muzzle. Then another patch back and forth and out the muzzle (3 strokes) Do that again. Lastly push a lightly oiled patch through and out the muzzle. That's it. Sound right?
     
  9. c3shooter

    c3shooter Administrator Staff Member

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    Not bad. As Highpower said- right rod, with bore guide, don't dip brush into solvent, etc. Also WIPE the rod with a clean patch after you take it out of the bore- keeps crud on rod from being used as an abrasive.
     
  10. DougG

    DougG New Member

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    Jag or slotted patch loop? Brass or nylon?
     
  11. c3shooter

    c3shooter Administrator Staff Member

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    A jag is generally for a one way pass (I prefer) Nylon will not scratch.
     
  12. stalkingbear

    stalkingbear Active Member

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    I prefer to use carbon fiber rods as opposed to coated rods. the coating will embed and wear out. I also HIGHLY recommend jags instead of slotted tips. NEVER clean from the muzzle-lest you destroy the crown. I use brass jags and bronze brushes (sparingly).
     
  13. DougG

    DougG New Member

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    Thanks. Why jags instead of slotted? And how do you use the jag in your routine?
     
  14. stalkingbear

    stalkingbear Active Member

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    With jags, you push it through and remove the dirty patch instead of dragging all the grime & crud back through the bore like slotted tips do.
     
  15. Highpower

    Highpower New Member

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    A jag will also provide full contact of the patch all the way around the bore with no gaps like you get using a slotted patch holder. It gives you a tighter fit of the patch in the bore, and will "scrub" deeper into the rifling grooves. Some jags are designed to wrap the patch around them, and you can "adjust" how tightly it fits in the bore by using larger/smaller patches or more/less wraps around the jag.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2009
  16. DougG

    DougG New Member

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    That makes perfect sense. Thanks.