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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wondering what steps you perform on brand new dies, before use, along with periodic cleaning. Got a regimen you do?

  • Cleaning off the rust-preventive coating and wiping down the die, before install into the press.
  • Lubrication of any sort, on the threads.
  • Cleaning once a year (or longer intervals) or after a given number of cases through the die.
  • Other steps?
 

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I use 99% isopropyl OH to wipe new ones and clean parts. Hit with 80 psi air.
To deep clean, ultrasonic cleaner, very hot water and dawn ultra or simple green. Then dehydrator at 160 degs to dry. If i coat with anything, its case lube. But it's sooo dry out here that i dont really need to.
As far as maintenance cleaning, i will generally clean with isopropyl OH after every 500 rounds or so.
 

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I use painters alcohol to clean dies. Never have used any lube on threads, just keep them and press threads clean. I clean rifle sizing dies after every use to remove any case lube in the die or on the expander ball.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Painter's alcohol, or 99% isopropyl. Can do that. And can keep fairly clean, after so many rounds, cleaning before putting the brass into the dies to keep gunge to a minimum.

The decapping die, though, is aluminum. And the Redding T-7 turret press is steel. So there'll be a small risk of galling, unless frequently kept up with. Don't want to gum up the threads with something inappropriate, but the aluminum-on-steel threading makes me wonder whether a little something wouldn't be a better choice.

 

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Acetone and brake parts cleaner.
 

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Spray with brake cleaner. Wax the outside and threads with Renaissance Wax. I let case lube get into it in use, which usually lubes it enough to prevent rust. I use the Imperial graphite powder for neck lube, so after a while it gets a little messy. I can tell when there's a bit too much lube built up when I start getting wet black rings on the case shoulder/neck juncture. Then just repeat cleaning procedure.

Carbide pistol dies, I spray with brake cleaner, and wax with Renassaince Wax (inside and out). Same for any die that doesn't require use of case lube.
 

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I guess I'll find out when I unpack them. I actually thought about getting rid of them but I would have kicked my own arse eventually. I just sleep better knowing I have them to use when I get ready. I guess it's a process dragging all that stuff out again. I think it's called procrastination or lack of motivation. Maybe not though. I am still mentally designing that table. Might be better to just buy one. How many people have had to re-learn reloading? I know how to do it but it's been a long time. The learning curve will be steep. Just need to start. I think some of it is still feeling puny. Asked the doc to call me again today.
 

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I take them apart then clean just like I would a military surplus rifle I just bought.
A good coat of good gun oil a wipe down with a clean rag, then assemble & set up for loading & test to be sure it is right.
 
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I take them apart then clean just like I would a military surplus rifle I just bought.
A good coat of good gun oil a wipe down with a clean rag, then assemble & set up for loading & test to be sure it is right.
I'll take mine apart, probably mineral oil them, wipe them off, see what condition they're in, coat with EEZOX then do the rest of them. Will be curious to see what condition they're in but my "punyness" is causing 101 temperature and I feel like sh-t.. If my doctor hasn't got me blood work finished in the morning, I'm going to a doc in the box. All they are concerned about is China Virus.
 

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Just picked this up this afternoon after picking up youngest daughter from college (she wanted to spend the weekend here at home). Might put new dies in it instead of using the brake cleaner:

Product Font Electronic device Auto part Automotive design
 

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Just picked this up this afternoon after picking up youngest daughter from college (she wanted to spend the weekend here at home). Might put new dies in it instead of using the brake cleaner:

View attachment 247505
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Have a similar ultrasonic cleaner (Lyman). Some things it does pretty well, others not so much. Some solutions will strip "bluing" from aluminum parts. Mine also heats if you wish which gives me pause on the possibility of annealing springs -tho' that might not be a problem other than in my head. Cleans off ackumpucky.
 

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No worries on annealing springs, that takes a lot more heat than it'll make. Although high carbon steel can be tempered at lower temps, that's up in the 400+ degree range and a lot of time soaking in the heat.
 
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