Pre-Buy Mosin questions.

Discussion in 'General Rifle Discussion' started by JMat, Dec 19, 2011.

  1. JMat

    JMat New Member

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    So here in the next couple weeks or even sooner im looking to buy a mosin. I have never bought one and i wanted an "experienced" opinion on what to look for. What are some comon flaws that i should look for or indicators of good/bad rifles. Any input would be appreciated.
     
  2. jpattersonnh

    jpattersonnh Active Member

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    Look for a rifle w/ matching numbers that looks new. Cosmoline is a sign it was put into storage, a good thing. Hex receivers are more sought after, but it does not make them better shooters. Pre war tend to have a better fit and finish. I have been talking 91/30's. For an M44, look for a receiver that is stamped 02. That would be a Hungarian rifle. Very accurate for an M44.
     

  3. c3shooter

    c3shooter Administrator Staff Member

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    To me, bore, muzzle, crown.

    Many of the M/Ns that are on the market right now were from the Russian War Reserve Stocks. After WW 2, they went back to the arsenals for inspection, rebuild, a coat of cosmoline, and into storage "just in case we need a few million rifles quickly".

    Get one of those, and you basically have a rebuilt rifle. Parts that were worn or damaged were replaced, or brought up to spec. Good deal.

    All commie ammo was corrosive (primers based on potassium chlorate) and if not cleaned, would rust. Unchecked rust can cause pimples (known as pitting) inside the barrel. Use a good bore light, look for smooth and shiny inside. Sewer pipe bad. However, these still shoot decently with modest pitting.

    Muzzle- improper cleaning rod use may have wallowed out rifling at muzzle. Use a loaded cartridge as a quick check. GENTLY insert the bullet into the muzzle. Should not go all the way in to the brass. SOME rifle were counter bored- last inch of barrel was bad, so they used a drill to remove rifling from last inch. Look in muzzle- cartridge tip goes all the way with no resistance, end of bore will be smoothbore, use the light, see the step? CAN restore decent accuracy (not stellar, decent) to a worn muzzle.

    Crown- rifle that the front face of the barrel has been banged up will give poor accuracy. Uneven release of gasses at muzzle upset bullet in flight. Dents, nicks, gouges in crown, pass. CAN be fixed if that is the best of the best.

    Rifles from Finland are marvelous, great shooters, price is outrageous. Hex receivers older, heavier, smidgen stronger.
     
  4. trip286

    trip286 New Member

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    Another way I like to check for counter bore is by taking a bic stic pen and feeling inside the muzzle for the step. People sometimes freak at a gun show if you pull a cartridge out of your pocket, for some reason some folks think your about to load up and start shooting.

    Check the bore as c3 said. You can remove the bolt by opening it, pull it to the rear, pull the trigger, and the bolt will slide the rest of the way out. If a dealer freaks on you for doing this, then pass. It's a standard method for inspecting these rifles and if a dealer doesn't want you to properly inspect before buying then he doesn't deserve your business.

    Look to pay $120 or less, the prices are rising and they used to be $79 quite commonly. If someone is asking more than $120, ask them what makes the gun so special.

    Remember, it should come with a bayonet, sling and cleaning kit. The kit should include the under barrel rod of course, a bolt tool (funny liking oval shaped thingy with a screw driver tip on one end) a cleaning jag, t handle insert, muzzle guide, and a funny looking tin oiler bottle.

    Also, ask for a discount on ammo if you buy from that particular dealer. I paid $120 for my rifle with full kit and accessories, but got a tin of ammo for less than half price. Going rate is around $85 for a tin, I paid $40, for a grand total of $160. A tin is 440 rounds.
     
  5. JMat

    JMat New Member

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    Thanks for the info guys. Next question if i get a cosmoline covered rifle whats the best cleaner anyone has foun to get that stuff off. An what about getting it out of the stock?
     
  6. c3shooter

    c3shooter Administrator Staff Member

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    You will find dozens of different means of de-cosmolining a rifle. Avoid like the plague anything that will blow you up or set you and your house on fire (gasoline, ether, etc etc)

    Techique that I used on a really glopped up Mauser recently-

    Get a tube of Goop orange handcleaner. Strip action from stock remove bolt. Use a soft brush, scrub rifle with generous quantity of Goop. Rinse off under HOT running water. Hang action up to dry while you scrub stock, WIPE off with old cloths. Hang and let dry.

    There will be lots of other suggestions. Be careful of ventilation with some (spray brake cleaner, carb cleaner, etc). Method I used does not stink up house, produce rant from significant other, etc.
     
  7. JMat

    JMat New Member

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    Thanks for the advice
     
  8. JMat

    JMat New Member

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    Ive also heard of people using hair dryers or setting the stocks next to a fire place to get the cosmoline that soaked into the stock out. Does it soak in that much that anything like this is necessary?
     
  9. stoppingpower

    stoppingpower New Member

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    I used brake cleaner for my sks after I got it.. it did take some of the blueing off... I think that's how its spelled.. other then that it works like a charm.. as far as the stock I just wiped it down.. it don't really bother me but I have heard setting it by the fire place works
     
  10. therewolf

    therewolf New Member

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    Now to M44s. Since they were mostly produced post war, and

    by a few different com-bloc countries while the SKS and AKM were emerging,

    many of these still have matching serials, and are either new or lightly

    used. They have the built in spike bayonet, like the SKS, and are

    carbine-sized, being about 8" shorter than the 91/30. I find mine to

    be great truck guns. The muzzle blast is exceptional.

    You'll spend 50-100$ more, but with a little searching,

    should be able to find one with all matching serials in

    very respectable condition.

    (consider yourself lucky if you get an actual

    Russian 1944 issue which was in the war)
     
  11. Chainfire

    Chainfire Well-Known Member Supporter

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    C3 pretty much nailed it on selection. The first thing I look for is the bore. Next I pick for pretty or old.

    For getting rid of the cosmoline, and I have done this many, many times, I strip the rifle, put all of the small parts in boiling water, and pour boiling water down the barrel. While everything is hot, wipe it down with tee shirt material. No chemicals, no stink. Just don't use your wife's good boiler or your rice will taste like kerosene forever.

    A historical side note on cosmoline:

    Russian cosmoline is................ear wax. Russian soldiers were forbidden to clean their ears, and once a year the "collectors" visited the troops to gather in this great preservative. The ear wax collection was a high point in the year, because they were able to hear again for a few weeks, also they were issued a small vodka ration after the harvesting to celebrate. So, when cleaning the rifle, treat it with great respect, and follow the cleaning with a toast to the Soviet soldiers who's ear wax saved your rifle.
     
  12. JMat

    JMat New Member

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    Chainfire awesome little fact. An thanks for all the info guys i just got my girlfriend to buy my one just now as my chritmas present. I think she is a keeper. Hahaha. Will post pics after i clean the "ear wax" off her.
     
  13. Chainfire

    Chainfire Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Off your girlfriend or your rifle?:)

    Congrats, you will have a lot of fun with your new rifle! Shoot in good health.
     
  14. JMat

    JMat New Member

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    So i just spent 2 hours cleaning this giant of a weapon and i dont think im close to done. Going to put a few rounds through it tomorrow. A little hesitant on my proficiency putting the bolt assmebly together but i did it and function checked it (dry fired) and it worked so im pretty sure its good

    ForumRunner_20111219_223132.jpg
     
  15. trip286

    trip286 New Member

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    Do you have the bolt tool? There are three notches, one for unscrewing the firing pin, and the other two are for checking firing pin protrusion. Of those two, the firing pin should pass under one notch, and touch or slightly hang on the other, when the tool is run across the bolt face edge ways.
     
  16. therewolf

    therewolf New Member

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    Oh, man, EAR WAX?

    I don't want to get all girly here, but am I the only one who's

    a little grossed out now? Yecch!
     
  17. JMat

    JMat New Member

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    Yes i have the bolt tool but it has 4 notches. The first one does not have a marking on it the second has 75 above it the third has 95 and the fourth im assuming is the firing pin wrench. Not too sure which notches to use....? Any input?
     
  18. trip286

    trip286 New Member

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    The fourth is so that it will fit down over the rim of the bolt face. your firing pin should pass under the 95 and touch or slightly snag the 75.

    Trying to figure out how to explain it... if you hold the bolt vertical, and lay the tool flat on the bolt face, lift the tool 90 degrees so that the edge with the notches is flat to the bolt face. The protrusion of the firing pin is what I would worry about the most, as long as it operates, then the rest of the bolt should be fine, you can't really put them together backwards.
     
  19. JMat

    JMat New Member

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    Thanks i just dint know which notches to use.
     
  20. trip286

    trip286 New Member

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    Standby for a picture