POS truck problems

Discussion in 'The Club House' started by longunner, Feb 19, 2013.

  1. longunner

    longunner New Member

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    So if any of you saw any of my posts in the wacky hobbies thread you know I've been having trouble with my brake system and my radiator. As for the radiator I'm going to do a pressure test and find out where my leak is. Ill post with results there another day. By the way this truck is a love hate thing and I can't bring myself to sell it haha
     
  2. molonlabexx

    molonlabexx New Member

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    Shoot it at the range! :D

    Not but good luck on the tests. Hope it all works out!
     

  3. longunner

    longunner New Member

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    Oh and as for the brake system it gets worse when it's cold but if said I could stop on a dime is be lying...big time haha. It takes me a few seconds after slamming the brake pedal (like trying to stop before running into the back of someone :eek:) and if I pump the pedal it gets hard as a rock and it won't even slow down for a couple seconds before eventually creeping to a stop. I checked my brake pads by poking my head in behind the tire on my front (disk) brakes and they seem to have a good amount left on them. I have yet to have a warm day here in New York to set aside to get in there and look at them. Also a few months ago I had my rear (drum) brakes off and I really can't be sure if I adjusted them back out far enough. From what I understand the majority of the braking power comes from the front brakes but I figure while I have my brake system under construction why not look at them as well. Also I'm pretty sure that I have a leak somewhere, any tips on how to go about tracking it down?....whew talk about sore fingers that was a damn essay lol :cool:
     
  4. longunner

    longunner New Member

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    Lol maybe ill send it to iraqveteran8888 and have the destruction of it go viral :eek:
     
  5. Devin556

    Devin556 New Member

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    Tnarg what model and year is your truck?
     
  6. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    either a leak or an internal leak within the master cylinder is possible. first place to start would be to thoroughly was all the brake lines and all brake components with hot pressurized water. water will break down and clean all the brake fluidif present and the hot water will clean any greasy dirt to help in locating the leaks if there are any. now if the master cylinder is leaking internally and can have the same symptoms as a leak, but cna be internal and not be seen. if you have eliminated any external leaks, then possibly the master cylinder is the problem.
     
  7. Devin556

    Devin556 New Member

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    Axxe is right on with that but also what could be causing the hard pedal is the brake booster if your truck has one. It could be an internal vacuum leak in the diaphragm or a leaking vacuum hose that goes to it from the engine. Does the engine run smooth at idle? If the master cylinder leaks fluid into the booster it will eat up the diaphragm as brake fluid is kind of corrosive.
     
  8. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    an easy way to check for a vacuum leak internally within the booster is to step on the brake pedal with the engine idling and in park or neutral and see if there is any change in RPM's.
     
  9. subie-jeep

    subie-jeep New Member

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    assuming you already bled the system to make sure there is no air/water in it, pump the brakes a few times until the pedal is firm,then hold it down as hard as you can for ~30 seconds.if it goes down at all over that 30 seconds then you have a leak somewhere,or an internal leak in the master cylinder.

    your pads may have a lot left ,but they could be glazed over.the right way to fix this is to get new pads and get the rotors turned,but some people "deglaze" with light grit sand paper.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2013
  10. ellis36

    ellis36 Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Check out the pistons in your calipers, too. They may be all ‘gooped’ up with old brake fluid.
     
  11. gearhead396

    gearhead396 New Member

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    As I stated in my message I'd check the brake booster first but Diesel engines do not create vacuum so there is a vacuum pump needed to work the brake booster first thing I would eliminate Is the brake booster and vacuum pump then move on to the rest only if the booster and pump are good
     
  12. racer_x

    racer_x New Member

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    My .02 your brake booster is out
     
  13. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    brake booster doesn't cause the pedal to go down and lose pressure when applied. if the brake booster ere out, the brake pedal would be hard to push all the time. not when applied, then reapplied. brake booster is what amplifies the force you apply to the pedal. failed brake booster would be like having no power brakes.
     
  14. JAD

    JAD New Member

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    Just a FYI Knuckles bleed easer then brakes
     
  15. -06

    -06 New Member

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    Once found the inside of the vacuum hose was collapsing and blocking any from moving the diaphragm. With your engine running--take the hose loose from the booster. If no change then there is a blockage.
     
  16. racer_x

    racer_x New Member

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    My .04 brake booster is out
     
  17. longunner

    longunner New Member

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    I've got something under my good that looks like a coffee can? I haven't looked to see where it goes to but could they be my vacuum connected to my brake system? It is rusted out on the bottom of it and it would do no good to be a vacuum
     
  18. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    that's just the vacuum reservoir for your vacuum accessories like the heater and A/C vents and doors and any other vacuum operated devices. has nothing to do with the brake vacuum system.
     
  19. longunner

    longunner New Member

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    So does it need to be replaced? I don't have power locks or windows and my heat works just peachy....haven't tried the AC yet though dunno if it will come out cool or not
     
  20. Devin556

    Devin556 New Member

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    Its not the door locks or windows that it helps control its the blend air door. The blend air door is moved by vacuum when you turn the switch from hot to cold. It moves the air to the heater core for heat or the ac system for cooling. With that being said yes it does need replacing but no it has nothing to do with your brake booster. The brake booster is mounted to the firewall and the master cylinder bolts to it. The vacuum line (should be about a 3/4 rubber hose) goes from the booster to somewhere on the intake.