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Discussion in 'Gunsmithing Forum' started by OLD Ron, Dec 22, 2019.
Is there a easy way to tell what direction a pin comes out of a revolver or for that much any gun ?
When it involves a "straight pin", I just go with whichever direction it moves the easiest. Obviously, if it's a pin with a head on one end, then it's a good idea to drive the pin out in the appropriate direction.
Unless the manual tells you different, get a big ol' honkin' magnifying glass and go from there.
I am working on a rescue pistol & man is everything rusted in . Bent one punch already so thought I would ask .
There may be a manual or other information on that firearm on the internet.
Use brown vinegar to clear away the rust. The holes may look the same to
a naked eye, but calipers don't lie.
This one is what we called a Saturday night special . Cheap gun . I do ones like this to practice different things without messing up a good gun in the process of learning . Right now I have everything out except the cylinder & it is putting up a fight .
I'd try a few drops of brown vinegar, here and there, let it soak. You have nothing to lose.
I took the gun out & just dried it off ...... it's getting frustrating to work on & usually at that point I break things . No giving up but pause .
Saturday Night Specials by definition are supposed to be used then gotten rid of, i.e. thrown in a dumpster or in the river.... might be where this one belongs
I'd apply PB blaster very liberally to everything that's tight. Screws, pins, etc. Let it set and soak in overnight. Do it again. Maybe three times. Then go at it.
Kroil. Wet it, let soak overnight. If all else fails, hold gun pointed away from you. In GENERAL, pins are inserted FROM the right, removed TO the right. Unless they don't, in which case you curse the perverse SOB and damage a punch- or the gun.
This one probably was in the trash . And that is why it is a good one to try to rescue to a point . All good practice to figure out ways to fix things that really get messed up . Then on a better gun it will be easier to get it back working again .
I have faith in you.
If I can find a schematic, I look at how they depict the pins going in.
I have looked at the parts list & it is just a straight pin with a grove in it for the lock . #3
It is as tough to get out as a dollar is to get out of riflings hand !
It's not always depicted as the way they go in, it might be the way they came out and really, the depiction is only for a pictorial reference to show where which #'rd pin goes where.
On those older, rust encrusted, across a poker table shooters............heat is GOOD! Some smacking with the punch, and then the Kroil!
Doubt they had red Loctite back in the 1800's.
Consider an ultrasonic hot bath. I am not sure how good ultrasound is on rust but it does loosen up crud and will perforate metal foil. Certainly nothing to lose here but 10 minutes of your time.
There are some tapered pins designed to only go in one way. I discovered this on a Hopkins and Allen underhammer percussion rifle which held the barrel to the receiver. In response to your question, try "Kroil". It is amazing stuff. Rusted bolts/nuts on farm equipment left outside for decades have come loose with Kroil. Not cheap but it works.
Seen and have dealt with those mostly on older side X side shotguns. Many of those old shotguns used tapered pins for the receiver and forearm iron to pivot on when "broken open" for reloading.
There are tapered reamers also available so one can install a slightly larger tapered pivot pin if/when the original pin were to wear out and cause some wobble.